|
|
|
Greek island | information |
| Many delights await
the visitor to the Greek islands. The wonderful light, the emerald seas
and densely wooded hillsides have been praised in many a travelogue and
tourist brochure. But there is another side to a country. Until relatively
recently the standard of living was well below the European average and
the culture shock was significant. In the last 20 years though, and particularly
since Greece joined the European Union and, even more importantly ditcched
the drachma for the euro, things have changed. Gone are the days when you could dine out for a fiver with free wine thrown in. Now prices are more on a par with the UK and hidden extras can find their way onto the bill. Your room may still be "basic Greek" with little in the way of luxury but you may now have the option of air conditioning - though you will certainly have to pay extra. This is not the Greeks out to make a fast buck - this is economic necessity. They have faced a massive rise in prices themselves and have little option than to pass it on to their customers. A pity perhaps for the tourist who remembers the old days of cheap food, cheap wine and cheap lodgings. Not sucha pity for the Greeks who are no longer born to lives of grinding poverty. |
||
| Dining Driving Environment Health Flying Sailing Weather | Greek FAQ |
 |
||
| FLYING |
| Not all Greek
islands take charter flights and those that do attract the package holiday
firms - and suffer for it. Concrete mixers come out to play; burger joints,
cocktail bars and discos shoot up as quickly as the prices. Islands that
are big enough, Corfu, Lesbos and Crete for example can retain pockets
of Greek country life but smaller islands, Skiathos in particular, tend
to get swamped by tourist tackiness INTERNATIONAL There are five international airports: Athens, Corfu, Heraklion, Kos and Thesaloniki. CHARTER Several islands also take regular charter flights and these include: IONIAN: Corfu, Kefalonia, Zakynthos AEGEAN: Samos SPORADES: Skiathos, Skyros CYCLADES: Mikonos, Santorini DODECANESE: Kos, Rhodes. CRETE: Chania, Heraklion Tourists for Thassos fly to Kavala and those for Lefkas land at Prevezza on the mainland DOMESTIC: Other islands take domestic flights, usually from Athens. These include: AEGEAN: Chios, Ikaria, Lemnos, Lesbos SPORADES: Skiros CYCLADES: Astipalaia, Milos, Naxos, Paros, Syros DODECANESE: Karpathos, Kastelorizo, Leros. CRETE: Sita  Olympic
operates almost all domestic flights. You must
reserve seats on domestic flights especially in August or on public holidays. Delays
in domestic flights are common and smaller planes cannot take off or land
when it is windy. |
|
|
||
| SAILING |
| Ferries operate
all year round in the Greek islands although the more remote might get
only one ferry a week. There are four kinds of ferry - hydrofoils, catamarans,
ferries and caiques. Hydrofoils are twice as fast but cost twice as much and are a boring way to travel. You sit in aircraft type seats in the gloomy interior and there are no snack bars or facilities other than a small toilet. They are built on an old Russian design that is unsuitable for bad weather and trips are likely to be cancelled in storms. Catamarans are super sleek, super fast and super expensive ferries and are only found on the longer, more commercial routes. It's a sleek way to travel if you have the cash. Ferries come in all shapes and sizes and are the workhorses of the islands, taking passengers, supplies and vehicles from island to island. They offer comfortable seats, sundecks, toilets and and cafes, though food and drink can be poor and exorbitantly priced. Safety concerns following the Express Samina disaster off Naxos in which 82 died have eased. New rules ban boats more than 30 and permits for new routes are only issued for vessels built after 1990. Statistically, you are very safe travelling on a Greek ferry but beware older boats, check exits and life jacket point if you are concerned. Check out timetables at the nearest ticket agent (there are several in each port) as times can vary daily. There's not much point in booking in advance expect in August when boats can be packed with Greeks on holiday. Buy tickets and hand them to the officer on the gangway when the ferry arrives. Dump your luggage along the edge of the vehicle desk and climb the steps to the passenger decks. Caiques are found in every port lined up on the quayside touting island trips and visits to small islets. No facilities on board so take your own food and drink. No toilets either and be prepared to suffer on the hard wooden seating. They can also sway about in the swell so beware seasickness.  Check
with the local ticket agents for times of sailings - they can change daily.Buy your snacks before you get aboard, ferry food is poor and expensive and best avoided unless you have a passion for microwaved mini-pizzas. Don't site behind the funnel on the sundeck or you may choke on the fumes. Some hydrofoils have a small outside deck at the rear where you can get some fresh air and get covered in spray |
 Hydrofoils are utilitarian  Catamaran are sleek  Large ferry docks in Mykonos  Boat trips in a caique |
|
ISLAND HOPPING |
|
| Heavily subsidised ferries encouraged island hopping
in the 1960s and the tradition has continued. Once the preserve of backpackers,
many now prefer more adventurous holidays. All you need are ferry times
and a relaxed attitude to timekeeping. The Greek ferry system is geared
to the needs of islanders, not tourists, so most ferries fan out from
the mainland ports of Piraeus, Rafina Lavrion and Volos. You normally
fly to Athens and get a ferry from Piraeus or fly to one of the main
islands and hop a ferry from there. The Cyclades is the ideal island hopping group having frequent ferries and short journey times. Flying to Mykonos first can save time. As well as the popular tourist islands of Santorini, Paros and Naxos there are many smaller ones worth a visit. N. Aegean islands are well spread out and you can spend a good few hours sailing between them. Samos, Patmos, Lipsi, Leros, Kalymnos and Kos are well connected by ferries and make for good island hopping. The Dodecanese offer a variety of islands with lots of historical interest plus the possibility of a trip to nearby Turkey or to Crete. Most fly to Rhodes then hop on ferries going north. The Sporades offer a varied quartet of islands strung out in a line with ferries between Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonissos. Skyros is another matter and can only be reached via Evia and there are no easy links to other island groups. The Ionians don't lend themselves to island hopping as ferries are fewer and links not as direct. There are regular sailings to Italy though if the fancy takes you and mainland Greece is across the causeway from Lefkas. |
||
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
||
| DRIVING |
| Ways to blend in on Greek roads | |||
| ROADS These have improved greatly in recent years as a result of Greece joining the EU. But island highways still leave a lot to be desired. Potholes and loose gravel are the most dangerous hazards, missing or misleading signposts are as irritating as they are commonplace. Cliff roads are rarely fenced despite the Greek weakness for throwing up wire fencing almost everywhere else. Fallen rocks can litter mountain roads and it is not unusual to find herds of goats wandering about or the odd snake taking a siesta on the hot tarmac. Greece has the highest accident rate in Europe after Portugal. If you do have an accident and you are in the AA or RAC you can get free roadside help from ELPA - the Greek equivalent. Also note it is an offence to leave the scene of an accident and you can be held by police for questioning for up to 24 hours. |
 Toot
your horn at every opportunity. Greeks do it at the drop of a hat. Ignore
speed limits. Greeks do unless driving
a tractor.Tailgate
to stop others weaving in and out at high speed. Don't
indicate - it is an unnecessary affectation. Always
overtake on blind corners. Overtaking on a clear road is for wimps. Flashing
lights means 'Get out of my way now or I will ram you!' Ignore
No Parking signs. One way signs can also be ignored. Up
to six cars can squeeze through after lights turn red. |
|
TAXIS Taxis can be cheap in towns and drivers must use a meter. Fares are controlled nationally but not always observed. Generally taxi drivers are honest and friendly but in tourist hotspots like Faliraki or Laganas this may not be the case. Drivers in Athens for example are notorious for ripping off tourists and other visitors. On popular islands like Rhodes and Skiathos out of town charges can double for no apparent, or legal, reason so take care if you want to go off the main road. Fares are set by the government but it is always a good idea to agree the price (for the car not for each person) before you set off and if rates are reasonable there's no reason not to give a generous tip as fares are lower than in the UK. Greek taxi drivers will often pick up other passengers on the way, its normal in Greece, but the fare stays the same. |
Taxi
rates valid at 2004 in euros Day rate (5am - 12pm) Night rate (12pm - 5am) Meter starts at 0.73 Minimum fare 1.47 Rate per km (day) 0.23 Rate per km (night) 0.38 Waiting time per hour 7.00 Radio taxi - simple call +1.17 Radio taxi - appointment +1.76 At airports + 0.88 Ports, rail and bus stations + 0.44 Luggage - per item + 0.15 |
|
CAR RENTAL Car rental outfits are everywhere and you can strike up a good deal especially out of season though fixing up rental through your travel agent as part of the holiday package can be even cheaper. This way a car can be waiting at the airport or delivered to you door. Several online firms allow you to book ahead in the UK. Seatbelts are compulsory and children under ten years must sit in the back. MOPEDS Motorbikes are available virtually everywhere and most rent-a-moto outfits like to have the latest models. If you do hire a moped take special care on the potholed roads. Helmets are required by law but locals appear to ignore this rule with impunity. |
 Only
drive if you have a licence. Rental firms don't always ask. Carry your
papers with you including the hirer's
phone number. Wear a helmet.
Hirers must provide one . Check brakes
before you set off. Some get minimal maintenance. Some offer
good prices but charge extra fees if you get stranded. |
|
BUSES Greek buses are cheap and punctual. Check local shops or post offices for timetables which may also be posted up on the odd bus stop. Beware of travelling during 'tourist hours' - 10am-noon and 4-6pm when everyone wants to travel and buses are crammed full - and them some more. They are sweaty pits of almost unbelievable mayhem. Conductors and drivers are helpful but be prepared for buses to take the odd detour to drop off driver's relatives or deliver a parcel. Don't worry, they get you there in the end. |
 |
|
ROAD MAPS For many islands these are works of fiction, bearing little resemblance to the road network. If you do get a map get a Greek one. You may not be able to pronounce the village names but at least the map hieroglyphs may almost resemble the the road signs and you might just get a inkling of where you are. That said, many signs do now have a phonetic English equivalent though they may still point the wrong way or announce you are in a place that does not exist. You will do well to adopt the Greek motto - there is always tomorrow. If in doubt stop at the nearest taverna and order a coffee and ask the waiter for directions. You could just settle for enjoying where you are - at least you won't feel lost any more. |
|
||
| DINING |
| Greek food is not all peaches and cream. It can be healthy - plenty of salads and olive oil - but it can be rather boring too. Dishes are mainly borrowed from the Italians and Turks and involve either stuffing ingredients into a pot and boiling them in oil or in stabbing them with a skewer and setting fire to them. But it's not all a dog's dinner. Chicken is cheap, lamb delicious, omelettes wonderful and yoghurt and honey out of this world. |  |
GREEK WINE |
Bread is always placed on the table with a cover charge
for it .  STARTERS
(metzes)Tsatziki - yoghurt, garlic and cucumber Choriatiki - salad with feta cheese Dolmades - stuffed vine leaves Gigantes - butter beans in sauce.  MAIN
COURSESouvlaki - a kebab Keftedes - meatballs Stifado - beef and onions Kleftiko - oven baked lamb Moussaka - mince and aubergine in cheese sauce Brizoles - chops Kotopoulo - chicken Pastitsio - baked macaroni Gemista - stuffed tomatoes  SWEETSBaklavas - pastry and honey Mila - apple Karpouzi - watermelon Stafilia - grapes Pagato - ice cream   Beer
is mostly imported lager with the awful Heineken and doubly awful Amstel
available everywhere. Greek beer is worth a try and if you spot Hellas or Mythos (above) on the shelves then ask for it. If, like me you prefer your beer warm, then shrug off the laughter and insist on a bottle that has not been in the fridge - at least it won't taste like you are drinking your own teeth. |
|
||
| MONEY |
| One of the great benefits of a Greek holiday used
to be the healthy exchange rate. The strong £ meant plenty of old
Greek drachmas for your money and you could get a decent meal with wine
for around £5. Those days are gone, never to return. Greece is
in the Eurozone and prices are nowadays more on a par with those in the
UK. Euro coins come in eight denominations: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents. Banknotes come in denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 notes. There are now 12 countries in the Eurozone - Austria, Belgium, Eire, Finland, France, Holland, Germany, Greece, Italy, Luxembourg, Portugal and Spain. Together they have a GDP that is almost as great as the United States.  The
rate of exhange for euros hover at 70p = 1 euro so the easiest way to convert
prices on the fly is:Convert € to £s: multiply by 7 and divide by 10 So €7 = 7x7 = £49 / 10 = £4.90 - say £5 Convert £s to €: multiply by 10 and divide by 7 So £7 = 7x10 = €70 / 7 = €10 Expect
to pay € 30-40-a night (£14-£28) for a simple double
room depending on the place and the time of year. Out of season, or on less popular
islands, you can pay as little as €20. |
  euro coins  euro notes |
|
||
| ENVIRONMENT |
|
||
| HEALTH |
|
||
| WEATHER |
| The Greek islands enjoy a warm and sunny Mediterranean
climate. Everywhere the summers are hot and dry with brilliant light
and clear skies. Temperatures are in the 80s, tempered only by the northern
meltemi winds which can blow fiercely for days at a time in August. Many
people go in spring when the sun is more temperate and the wild flowers
are in bloom. Winters are generally mild but islands can have snow and,
when it does rain, it tips it down in buckets. The summer season in the Greek islands runs from May to October. The weather can be unpredictable out of season but,ironically it is best to book two weeks not one at this time of year. One week can be a washout and the next glorious but you rarely get two bad weeks in a row. If you are planning an early or late holiday think about the southerly islands such as Crete and Rhodes where the weather will generally be more settled. Once the weather does settle - from late May to mid-September - it is almost guaranteed to be hot, bright and clear. Too hot sometimes, particularly on southern coasts of southern islands when tourist police can clear beaches at midday to prevent daft sunbathers getting grilled alive. Average sea level temperatures are 27° C in July. From late June to early August islands suffer from the the brisk meltemi wind which, though it freshens the air, can make sunbathing on northern shores uncomfortable. In winter low-pressure systems move in from the Atlantic, bringing rain while cold winds blow in from the Balkans. The same low-pressure systems draw warmer winds from the south so there can be a marked difference in winter temperatures between north and south islands. The Ionian Islands and the western mountains get most of the rain, often three times that in the sheltered east. The Ionian and Aegean islands are notably in October and November. |
|
A tourist survival guide to the Greek islands |
Most
hot meals in Greece are served lukewarm. Dishes are cooked in the morning
and reheated for the evening customers. This is not done for economic reasons,
it's a cultural thing. Greeks believe tepid food is better for the digestion
and more agreeable in a hot climate - and who is to say they are not right.
Some visitors find this difficult to stomach, used as they are to meals
served up piping hot to combat the cold. 
Drinking
Greek coffee is like crunching volcanic sand and best avoided. Nescafe
sachets are ubiquitous and exorbitantly priced. The brand is Nescafe
Classic - not one I have seen outside Greece. They also come in tiny
coffee cups which ensure the coffee is both too strong to drink and is
guaranteed to go cold within seconds.
Expect
to pay through the nose for soft drinks especially fresh orange juice although,
it has to be said, the stuff is absolutely delicious. 
Many
islands have a health centre despite their small size. Young trainee
doctors are often posted there for our equivalent of an intern year and
are usually very good and, most importantly, often speak excellent English
- so you can explain what is wrong without an embarrassing pantomime
performance. 
British
visitors can get a form E111 from DSS offices. This entitles you to the
same care as you would expect if you were a Greek. It may get you into
a hospital but it won't cover the cost of relatively expensive medicines
or nursing. Outside Athens few seem to know or care about the form. You
are better advised to get good travel insurance, pay up front, keep receipts
and claim when you get back.
Early
visitors can get wonderful weather, not too hot and excellent for walkers with
wild flowers out in force. There are few, if any, crowds so you can pick your
spot on the beach or your table in the taverna. Everyone is cheerful after the
winter lay offs. But the weather is unpredictable and you can get a week of rain.
Some tavernas do not open until the end of May, most beach cantinas are closed
and ferry services can be few.