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Assos has long been touted as one of the most beautiful locations on Kefalonia. The setting on the west coast is as spectacular as it is romantic with its horseshoe harbour of cobalt blue overlooked by a hilltop Venetian fortress and surrounded by forests of cypress and pine. It has now been listed as a World Heritage Site.
Assos is approached down an almost suicidal descent from the main road to Fisardo. Despite the hairpin bends it's a favourite destination for coachloads of day trippers. Cars are not allowed in the village and a car park has been built on the edge.
The village itself only has about 100 permanent inhabitants and most of its building were spared in the 1953 earthquake. Not so say there hasn't been some modern building as the resort has expanded to take in the growing tourist market, but most of it has been reasonably small scale and sympathetic to the surroundings. There is an ugly clutch of nastily vulgar apartments known as Braunis Horio that has managed to bring down the tone.
The village now has five tavernas and a mini market and several apartments have gone up on the surrounding hillside along with some building renovation around the waterfront. Many of the backstreets are cobbled and unlit, so you need a torch if you stay here.
The village beach is a thin strip of shingle and sand beneath the tavernas that line the waterfront. The rocky promontory curves around it to form a natural, shallow and sheltered harbour. As well as shady waterfront tavernas, a couple more have sprung up along the main street leading up the hillside. Most tavernas enjoy good sunsets. There is also a tiny cove of pebble as you enter the village with views across the bay.
There is nothing to do in Assos except relax and unwind and it is rather cut off from the rest of the island. There are no clubs or music bars other tourist trappings. It's enjoyed by those interested in walking and relaxing.
The fortress was built in 1584 on the rocky promontory and the abandoned remains are in a pretty poor state. Work started on building a low key conference centre within the castle walls with EU funding but the future of this project is still uncertain. A long and steep winding track gets you up there and cars are no longer allowed. Take some water if you venture up as there are no facilities when you get there. The church of the Virgin Mary in Plakoula is about half way up.
There is a village bus to Argostoli but it only runs once a week so car hire is essential if you want to get around. Boat hire is available and there is a taxi rank in the village square though you may have to ask in the mini market to find the driver.