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Lixouri is the second largest town on Kefalonia and capital of the Pali peninsula. It lies opposite the island capital of Argostoli and is reached either by ferry across the bay or by road around the bay and down the peninsula. Off the normal tourist trail the Pali peninsular is mostly given over to sheep and goats and vineyards, orchards and market gardens.
The town was completely destroyed in the 1952 earthquake when only five buildings remained standing. It has been rebuilt in comfortless concrete with no concessions to the former Venetian architecture. The result is a drab and grey suburban sprawl dotted with dull, overblown squares and wide characterless streets. It competes with Argostoli for unattractiveness. And competition between the two towns is notorious since Argostoli was crowned the capital of Kefalonia, much to the dismay of Lixouri inhabitants who sneer at their more cosmopolitan neighbours, while Argostoli natives look down on those across the bay as agricultural hicks.
One of the buildings that survived the earthquake is Tipaldon Mansion, now Lixouri's public museum and library with ornate rooms housing a large collection of books, manuscripts and icons. There are many churches in Lixouri, the most notable being the Church of Panagia ton Perligadon, which hosts festival in August with fireworks and feasting.
Lixouri has little in the way of beaches with a few small strips of shingle along the coastline to the north, though they do have splendid views across the bay. About 2 km south of Lixouri is the sandy beach of Lepeda with a monastery dedicated to Agia Paraskevi. Further south is the fishing village of Mihalitsata and more traditional villages at Soulari and Mantzavinata, before the road reaches the noted beach of Xi, known for its red sand and clay cliffs.