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Parikia harbour windmill


Parikia waterfront

Holidays 2012 in Parikia

• Sunshine Holidays

The great long waterfront at PAROIKIA, or PARIKIA, is the Paros island capital of some 2,000 people. The arriving visitor sees little in the way of Greek island charm. Cheap cafes, tavernas and trinket shops concertina in both directions away from the central harbour which has a tarted up windmill at its mouth, a popular meeting place for travellers. Parikia harbour attracts around 30 ferries a day in the high summer season often appears bursting to the seams.

To the east of Parikia lies an unwelcoming swathe of asphalt and concrete littered with parked cars and lorries. The road bottlenecks at a narrow, scruffy beach at LIVADIA, backed by tamarisk trees and a clutch of tavernas and bars on the landward side of the busy Parikia road before fragmenting into a warren of one-way streets.

To the west of Parikia, a line of restaurants stand behind a monotonous sea wall until it all peters out at a small shingle beach, a few old windmills lost among the flourishing fast food cafes that now line the shore.

The resort at Parikia has grown fourfold in recent years and it shows. But away from the waterfront, it is a different story. Following the brown signs to the Traditional Settlement takes the visitors to a wide paved square with a small triangular park and the remarkable restored cathedral of Ekatontachoni.

Behind that is the Archaeological Museum, then a labyrinth of alleys jam packed with an interesting mix of shops, galleries, cafes and whitewashed houses, but strangely only a single supermarket.

At the heart of Parikia are the walls of the Venetian Kastro, marked on the seaward side by terraces of stone draped with foliage and flowers and inland by a 13th century Venetian castle and surrounded by dozens of picturesque churches stuffed with treasures.

Paroikia is basically a busy port, with seafront tavernas aimed at tourists just passing though, either waiting for an outgoing ferry or just arriving on an incoming one. There are some quiet beaches further round the bay to the north at Krios and Agios Fokas but they are small and undistinguished.

Livadia beach has good sand

The first beach heading east from Parikia and around the bay is at LIVADIA. The beach is only about 1km from the port and easily walkable. Its proximity to Paroikia makes it very popular and it can get crowded.

Livadia is a long beach of good fine sand and plenty of trees at the back of the beach to provide natural shade. There are the usual sunbeds, umbrellas and watersports you would expect of a busy 'town' beach. Games of beach volley are popular and the sands often fill quickly at lunchtime as locals go for a quick dip.

Livadia beach is naturally divided into several sections. It narrows towards Parikia and beyond a clump of trees is a small bank of sand that tends to be much quieter should you wish to escape the noisy crowds.

The furthest section is also called AKTAIA and has a small cantina and beach bar. Even further is a tiny beach called KALAKONAS, found down a very steep dirt track and usually only frequented by locals.

Krios beach

KRIOS, about 2km from Paroikia and has a snack bar, taverna and an organised campsite. For those that don't like walking there are taxis or a regular boat service to and from Paroikia port.

Boats leave for Krios and Marcellos every 15 mins from 9am. You can also reach the beach at Krios along a coastal walking track. Krios is a long beach with fine white sand and clean water. There are good views across the bay to Parikia itself.

Although near to Parikia, Krios is not particularly popular and it rarely gets crowded. There are the usual sunbeds and umbrellas and some beach volleyball courts. The surrounding area is packed with hotels, apartments and rooms for rent.

There is also a campsite near Krios and it can get noisy here, although it's easy to get away from if you prefer things quieter.

Martsello has a long beach

Just north of Krios, and almost part of it, is one of the most popular beaches along this part of the coast. MARCHELLO or MARTSELLO is about 3km from Parikia with access from dirt tracks off the main road or by regular boats from the island port which call in both here and at neighbouring Krios.

Marchello is a long, sand beach with shallow water, ideal for families with children. The sandy area attract the crowds and the sunbeds but there are stretches of rocky outcrops and small, sandy coves for those who prefer to avoid the crowds. The more isolated stretches attract naturists.

Souvlia beach has good shade

A little further around the bay from Marchello, and almost part of it, is the sandy beach of SOUVLIA. South facing and well protected from the northerly winds by the hills behind, this is a very pleasant beach of good sand.

Souvlia beach is small and not very deep but there is good shade and the waters are shallow. A small taverna opens up at the back of the beach in the summer. There are apartments and studios dotted all over the hillside above the beach.

Close to Souvlia is a cave thought to have been the home of Archilohos, one of the most noted poets of the Archaic period. There is quite a large cave in the almost vertical rock where he is thought to have hidden himself to seek inspiration for his poems.

Kaminia beach at Agios Fokas

There are more sand coves north from Souvlia all the way to the tiny headland chapel of AGIOS FOKAS. Most of the beach coves have local names but they rarely feature on maps.

The main stretch of sand here is called KAMINIA, almost an extension of neighbouring Souvlia and a long crescent of sand and shingle cut off by a rocky outcrop, about 5km from Parikia Town.

Access to the beach is down unsignposted dirt tracks and there are no sunbeds or other facilities here, although boats from Parikia do call on trips around the bay and you can get a taxi to drop you off on the road behind the beach.

There is some shade beneath a clump of trees in the centre of Kaminia beach but otherwise it is very exposed. Those who hike over to the twin-roofed chapel on the headland are rewarded with impressive views over Parikia bay.

Naoussa fort


Naoussa boats


Piperi beach

Holidays 2010 in Naoussa

• Sunshine Holidays

Welcome to Kodak country. NAOUSSA is touted as one of the prettiest fishing ports in Greece and its picturesque reputation attracts camera clickers in their droves.

Naoussa may be considered one of the most picturesque ports in the Cyclades, but it's not a view that everyone shares. The forest of TV aerials and power lines, for example, do little to enhance the acres of whitewashed cement.

The Naoussa port village is cradled in a giant crab's claw of a bay and has several quays awash with gaily painted boats. The remains of a 14th century castle lie half submerged in the sea, providing a great backdrop for holiday photos. In the middle of the huge Naoussa bay is a small islet with a dainty chapel.

Naoussa was one of the first places chosen by the Greeks for a clampdown on indiscriminate building,- too late to prevent the erection of a shapeless suburb of tatty houses, but at least the port area has been spared the cement mixer.

Naoussa is a very popular holiday destination and plenty of tourist trappings come with it - hotels, studios, apartments as well as countless restaurants, tavernas, ouzeries, bars, cafes and nightclubs.

Many former fishing sheds have been converted to trinket shops and trendy boutiques selling everything from cheap souvenirs to designer beachwear.

Taverna tables spill out onto Naoussa harbour and prices are what you would expect in such a tourist honey trap. The port is packed in August when the villagers celebrate a battle with the pirate Barbarossa in a torchlit boat procession.

On many summer days tourists are so thick on the ground you must queue for a stroll around the harbour. If you tire of whitewashed houses and bobbing fishing boats there are some very good 14th and 15th century churches - Agios Athanasios and Agios Georgios are just two examples - and there is a good Byzantine museum.

There is a small beach in Naoussa called PIPERI. It a pleasant small crescent of sand with rocky outcrops at each side and fine views over the bay. It's a short walk from the port on the edge of the village. Buses between Parikia (10km away) and Naoussa are frequent.

Kolymbrethes beach and cantina


Rock formation at Kolymbrethes

Heading west out of Naoussa the road follows the coastline closely, passing various small pockets of sand before reaching the area known as KOLIMVITHRES or KOLIMVETHRES, one of the best known beaches on the island and some 3km from the resort.

Here wind and sea has sculpted the rock into smooth, but quite bizarre shapes. Between the striking rocky outcrops is a succession of small, sandy coves of shallow with lucid blue water.

The coves at Kolimbithres are tiny and the more popular spots fill up quickly in season, with every available space used to park a sunbed and umbrella. Less overcrowded spots can be found for those prepared to hunt around among the rocks.

Trees are plentiful and provide good shade while the shallow water makes Kolimbithres an ideal spot for families. Offshore is the islet of Agia Kali, with the small chapel, which you may visit by boat.

The Kolimbithres beaches are not immediately obvious from the road and are easily overshot. The coast road is lined with tavernas, apartments and bars. and rough tracks lead down to the beach

Wooden signs point to several hastily erected beach bars that seem to sprout up each year, though many are subsequently lost in winter storms. Other impromptu signs point to rough areas used for cars parks.

At the nearby inland site of Koukounaries are the ruins of a 1300BC Mycenaean acropolis enclosed by so-called Cyclopean walls.

Finally, once at the beach you'll see the small islet of Agia Kali, with the small church dedicated to the Assumption of Jesus Christ, which you may also visit by private or rented boat.

Monastiri beach and taverna

Beyond the beaches at Kolimbrethes the road winds it way to the headland past a watersports centre chock full of plastic water chutes and other paraphernalia. It eventually peters out at a small sandy bay at MONASTIRI, some 2km north of Kolymbrethes.

The whole of Monastiri beach has been taken over by a huge taverna complex built on the hill beyond. Most of Monastiri beach has been covered with sun beds and shades complete with little wooden tables.

The bay has plenty of watersports facilities and is so shallow it is possible to walk many metres out to sea, making Monastiri ideal for children, of which there are many dozens most days.

There is a large car park on the approach road and the hillside taverna provides all the facilities including the occasional concert and organised beach party.

Monastiri is a bit too organised for some but, if you don't mind the crowds and noise, about as good as this type of beach gets. For those looking for a quieter spot, tracks snake up the barren hillside beyond where there are several small coves that are a favourite with naturists.

Good sand at Agios Anargyros

To the east of Naoussa are several good beaches. The first, beyond the Naoussa town beach of Piperi, is AGIOS ANARGYRI or ANARGIRI or ANARGYROS, only about 200m along the east coast road out of the resort.

It is a fairly long stretch of good sand with plenty of trees behind to offer good natural shade. It's proximity to Naoussa makes it very popular, particularly as it is surrounded by apartments and small hotels and the soft sand shelves gently into the sea.

All the facilities, including tavernas and cafes are nearby and Naoussa is only a short walk anyway.

Langeri beach

Further east of Naoussa, the road forks, with the left fork signposted to Santa Maria on the east coast. Down a dirt track off this road is the splendid stretch of sand and dunes at LANGERI or LAGERI, about 4km from Naoussa.

It's not easy to find, down a dirt track from the main road and it's not well signposted, but it's worth seeking out with dunes sweeping up to low trees which provide plenty of natural shade behind a long bank of fine, golden sand that makes up the main beach.

Off the main tourist trail, Langeri is popular with naturists. There is a bus to Santa Maria that will drop you off but it's still quite a walk to the beach. There are no tavernas or bars so you will need to take provisions but there are good views over the bay.

Santa Maria beach

The strikingly beautiful bay at SANTA MARIA is lined with soft sand that sweeps around in a huge horseshoe with a view of Naxos beyond. Backed by shallow dunes and dense green scrub it is a lovely spot characterised by open skies and a wide vista.

Santa Maria is on the east coast but the only road to it is from Naoussa. There is a large car park at the entrance to the beach and signs warning of sinking sand cum salt lake nearby.

Golden sand lines the Santa Maria shore, backed by flat scrubland. Sunbeds dot the more popular spots while beach bars howl out disco music. You can escape the bedlam by following the long sands,to the headland where there is a traditional beach cantina. Further south Santa Maria beach becomes more skimpy and banks of dry, flyblown seaweed line the shore.

Santa Maria is protected from the northerly winds but breezes can freshen in the bay making this good windsurfing territory. Parts of Santa Maria beach are used by the local campsite and there are diving clubs based here as well as windsurfing centres.

There is an occasional bus and boats do call, though not very frequently as it is a long haul around the northern headland.

Ampelas beach

Just before the Damoulis Cape is the beach of AMPELAS or AMBELAS, within easy striking distance of Naoussa and so one of the most visited along this stretch of coastline.

Ampelas has a short, sandy beach opposite a harbour full of fishing boats and protected by a line of large boulders. The beach is small and fairly deep, but rarely gets crowded even though caiques of visitors sail in daily.

Another beach is larger, lined by palm trees, and has soft, clean sand with a few stones that and shelves gently into the sea. This is an ideal spot for those wishing to get away from the crowds in Naoussa but prefer beach facilities.

There are several tavernas and cafes overlooking both the beach and harbour and there is a campsite nearby.

The more adventurous can take rough tracks north and south that lead to more remote sandy coves.

Glifades beach

A little further south and just 5km from Naoussa is the beach of GLYFADES. Access is down a dirt road and to a narrow strip of stone and shingle with patches of sand here and there, with it getting sandier the further south you go.

Glyfades beach is exposed, there is no shade and there are no facilities - just the ticket for those escaping the crowds on more popular beaches.

There are a few remote beaches to be found in the area north of Kefalos Bay but they are remote and little visited. The beach at TSOULAKIA is not much more than a thin strip of sand and pebble.

Mamara church

The road south heads further inland to the attractive hill village at MAMARA. The name Mamara means marble and many of the houses have slabs of marble although most appear to be little more than whitewashed cement.

Nevertheless Marmara is an attractive village with several good churches, narrow streets and small gardens that are often edged with tall reeds of bamboo to protect them from the winds.

Mamara is surrounded by rich farmland, notably and unusually for Greece is cattle breeding and dairy production. Ancient pottery workshops have been unearthed in excavations to the north-east of the village.

A dirt track leads out of the village to the wide, sandy bay of Ormos Kefalos and the beach at Molos.

Kefalos Bay and Molos beach

The wide open Kefalos Bay is reached from Mamara and has a fine swathe of pebble and sand at MOLOS beach. Molos is an isolated and exposed beach that lies between the two hills of Kefalos and Antikefalos, ideal for those looking for a quiet spot away from the crowds.

There are several stretches of sand around Molos bay and there are occasional stands of trees to provide shade. The sand banks steeply at the shoreline though and the water gets deep very quickly.

There are views across to the island of Naxos and a couple of tavernas that open in the summer at the clutch of houses known as Kefalos. At the northern end of Molos beach is a chapel to Agios Nikolaos Ftochos ('Poor' Nikolaos).

Another chapel at the southern end is devoted to Agios Nikolaos Plousios ('Rich' Nikolaos) next to a small harbour for fishing boats. There is also a track south that leads over the headland to a beach at Kalogiras.

Marpissa has some fine churches

Back inland and only about 1km south of Mamara is another pretty inland village at MARPISSA, about 18km from Parikia. Tourists often take in both Marpissa and Mamara villages when visiting the area and most will have driven from nearby holiday resorts of Piso Livadi and Logoras.

Marpissa itself is a charming traditional village built on a hill overlooking Kefalos Bay, with the Cathedral of Metamorfosi dominating the clutch of whitewashed houses that sit below.

Nearby are ancient ruins, most notably a 15th century fort, and the 16th century Monastery of Agios Antonios.

Piso Livadi beach


Kalogeros beach

Approached through a plantation of pines and eucalyptus, PISO LIVADI is a pretty seaside resort that has grown up around an attractive fishing harbour, about 19km from Parikia.

The beach at Piso Livadi runs south of the resort and it is long and the sand soft and golden, ideal for families - there is even a children's play area tucked to one side and tamarisk trees behind to provide plenty of natural shade.

Behind the arc of the bay, the slopes are dotted with small hotels and studios and, while tourist tavernas and cafes overlook the harbour and the bay, the resort of neighbouring Logoras can be clearly seen a short distance away. In fact, a rash of villas and studios along the coast at Piso Livadi has now pretty much united the two resorts.

In recent years Piso Livadi has developed into a very popular holiday resort and it's a good alternative to crowded resorts to the west.

The pretty port is packed with boats and is found around the headland from the beach. Tavernas dot the quayside and boats leave here for Naxos, Mykonos, Ios, Santorini and Amorgos.

To the north, about 1km along dirt tracks are several sheltered coves at KALOGEROS or KALOGIROS. Imposing outcrops of rock are interspersed with small arcs of fine sand and this is the place to escape the crowds. There are no facilities, although a cantina may open sometimes in the high summer. The mineral-rich cliff clay is said to be good for the skin.

Logoras beach

The beach resort at LOGARAS, just south of Piso Livadi is the quieter of the two seaside villages. Here you will find a long, pine fringed beach of sharp, gritty sand in a fast-growing holiday resort.

Apartments and villas have mushroomed and with them have come tavernas, beach cars, car rentals and other tourist paraphernalia. The scale is still small however and apartments are well hidden behind the trees, so Logaras resort retains a pleasant country village air.

Like Alyki, litter bins abound which, in Greece, actually gives Logaras a creepy, artificial air. A neat car park is provided on the headland where the odd fishing boat is usually anchored to the rocks.

Pounda beach bar

Don't confuse the beach resort of POUNDA POUNTA or PUNTA with the ferry port at Pounta on the opposite western side of the island. This is basically one huge holiday club to which the sandy crescent shaped beach, 26km from Parikia, very much takes second place.

Pounda beach heaves with young bodies most of the day. This is where the boys parade their pectorals while the girls wiggle and giggle. It's where the windsurfers come to play after a hard day on the boards.

There is a fine, sandy stretch that caters almost exclusively to youngsters who want to dance, drink and have fun in the sun. Next to the beach is a large complex, built in quasi-Mexican style, that includes swimming pools, bars, cafes, restaurants and shops. It has everything from disco to bungee jumping.

The area surrounding Pounta beach has a wide range of hotels, rooms for rent, apartments and studios. There are buses but they drop you off at the bottom of a very steep hill.

Just south of Pounda is a small sandy cove at MESADA or MESSARA that is much favoured by naturists.

Chrisi Akti beach


Chrisi Akti surfing centre

Described by many as Paros' premiere beach, and certainly its most famous, is CHRISI AKTI (Golden Beach) a very long and flat sandy beach, about 22km from Parikia, and a Mecca for windsurfers.

The main beach is a good 700 metres of soft sand backed by a several tavernas, small hotels and studios. Both long and wide, the beach is big enough to swallow up the hotels, tavernas and sunbeds.

The annual influx of free spending visitors appears to have taken its toll on the Chrissi Akti locals, some of whom appear to have adopted a grasping and greedy attitude unusual in Greeks. Freewheeling sharks, it seems, are not restricted to the surfboards.

A wide variety of windsurfing, beach and water sport facilities is also available on Chrissi Akti including surf schools, scuba diving, water skiing, wind and kite surfing and catamaran sailing. The flat Chrissi Akti sand and shallow water make for ideal surfing conditions.

The smaller NEA CHRISI AKTI or New Golden Beach, nearby (also known as TSARDAKIA, has hosted the Professional Windsurfers' World Cup each August since 1993 and comes with a guarantee of plenty of wind in the surfing sails thanks to the predictable northerly meltemi that blows each day.

Shady sands at Drios beach

North-east of Cape Pyrgos and about 2km south of Chrisi Akti is the resort of DRIOS. The beach resort has a smattering of hotels and apartments that have done little to cheer up the undistinguished but pleasant narrow beach.

But Drios village itself is pretty enough with an attractive duck pond. There are several tavernas and bars in the village which benefit from the trees and other greenery.

Drios has a long, steeply banked beach of sharp sand, lined with plenty of trees. During high season, Drios can get rather crowded with sunbeds, and water sports are popular here.

Drios beach is well sheltered from the northerly winds and there are plenty of beach bars and restaurants. There are regular buses to Parikia and Naoussa.

Drios was a major harbour in Paros around 1000 AD as the rock formations provided natural protection for ships. Nearby, there are fissures in the rocks which were used as ship piers to protect boats from storms. Offshore is the small, uninhabited islet of DRIONISSI.

Glyfa beach is very sheltered

The small crescent of sand at Glyfa sits below the hook of Cape Pyrgos which shelters it from the northerly winds. Access is down a good dirt road signposted off the main coastal road about 15km from Paroikia.

It is so sheltered the seas can remain calm even as other beaches on this stretch of coast get quite choppy. Glyfa beach is sand and pebble with good natural shade provided by a line of tamarisk trees at the back of the beach.

Rocky outcrops at either end of Glyfa beach add interest and the shoreline water is quite shallow. Little advertised, it remains quiet even at the height of the season and a small cantina opens in the summer to cater for the few lucky ones who find it.

Alyki beach


Farangas beach

The Paros resort of ALYKI must be putting itself up for a tidy village award. The place is spotless, almost to a fault. Faults include litter bins parked in the middle of a long stretch of soft, clean, golden sand that shelves gently into the sea.

This once lazy fishing village, about 14km from Parikia, appears to have been under full-time construction for the past few years.

Despite the boom, Alyki village has a dainty, even twee air with its freshly painted walls (of stone, not cement), neat streets (no rubbish in sight) and tastefully decorated roadside tavernas.

The long, sandy Alyki beach has tamarisk trees behind for plenty of natural shade. A walk around the headland leads to a car park and another beach, more stone than sand here.

A dirt track road out of Alyki is signpostedFARANGAS and leads to a quiet, sandy beach and beach bar. There is plenty of natural shade beneath the nearby trees or you can hire a sunbed and umbrella.

It is little known, despite a beautiful, sheltered setting and good sands, so it rarely gets crowded. Alyki beach is also called FARAGAS and there are several small coves nearby, though this is by far the most popular.

The Museum Scorpios, north out of Alyki village and opposite the small airport on the main road to Paroikia and near the village of Voutakos, has animated handmade miniature figures depicting past life on the island.

To the south, through Akrotiri, is the nondescript hamlet of TRYPITI where there is a small arc of sand at the end of a rocky inlet and an electricity sub station to spoil both the beach and the view.

Voutakos beach

The population thins out dramatically north of Alyki. The area around the little fishing port of VOUTAKOS has been given over to quiet, relatively isolated holiday homes and apartments.

There are spectacular views to Antiparos and to several other small islets offshore. It is said that you can see 10 islets from these hills.

At Voutakos there is a good sandy beach, well sheltered from the meltemi winds. The south side of the port is mainly rocks but the north has a long stretch of good sand. Access is not easy, down an unsignposted dirt track from the main road.

There are several small, sand coves to be found down dirt tracks from the main road, which turns inland here as it heads to Alyki, but none of the beaches has any facilities.

There is also a good coastal track that runs many kilometres from Pounta to Tripiti and passes through many of these coves.

The island airport is inland from here, with regular flights to and from Athens. Local buses link the airport to Paroikia.

Pounta windsurfers

POUNTA serves as the main ferry port to Antiparos if you prefer to take a car across - highly recommended if you wish to see much of the offshore islet as there is little or no public transport.

Pounta port itself is about 9km from Paroikia and is a drab little place consisting mainly of a huge concrete car park, concrete jetty and dirt.

This is the closest point to Antiparos, with few permanent residents but with many hotels and rooms to rent. Ferries dock every 15 minutes or so in season so at least you can leave the place behind fairly swiftly.

Don't confuse it with the club-style resort on the east coast that has the same name. Most visitors to this part of Paros are heading to Antiparos or for the coastal area to the south, noted for its kitesurfing. Several windsurfing and kitesurfing centres have grown up along the long, flat sands.

The channel between Paros and Antiparos funnels good winds and the shallow-watered shoreline helps to make this place one of the most popular beaches on Paros for surfers. During the summer, the meltemi can blow between 10 and 30 knots.

Agia Irini beach

North of Pounta, on the headland and opposite the islets to the north of Antiparos is the tiny resort of AGIA IRINI.

This has a very pretty and sandy beach at the end of a well sheltered bay that is noted for the many palm trees that give the sands a rather exotic air.

Access is from a shore hugging back road from Parasporos or down a rough track marked off the main road which runs a little inland. There are two sandy coves split by marble slabs, palm trees and a waterside church.

The palms descend right down to Agia Irini beach and there are plenty of rock pools to add interest but bathers must take care of the many underwater rocks and stones.

There is also a nice taverna next to the farm and a shady olive grove that has a wide menu.

Parasporos beach

Holidays 2012 in Parasporos

• Sunshine Holidays

Those heading south out of Paroikia find PARASPOROS to be the first substantial beach, but one that is strangely disregarded by many island guides. A track leads down from the main road then rises sharply to a roughly laid car park on the exposed headland.

An extensive and not unpleasant wood-built beach bar overlooks the best of Parasporos sands. Bar owners have stuck sun beds and parasols on the best parts of the beach but, as these are of natural materials, they are not objectionable - although they come at a cost.

The sand at Parasporos deteriorates as it sweeps around the bay past a bog-standard beach bar. At the far side of the bay it is more or less grit and dust although there is a pleasant grove of trees to give shade.

Swimming is very pleasant in the shallow bay, but only after a large bank of underwater stones has been negotiated.

Parasporos has become very popular with youngsters in recent years and disco music is never far away. There is a campsite at the southern end of the beach that runs its own bus service. Public buses stop nearby on the main road and it is only a short walk to Parasporos beach.

A coastal path leads to a small bay to the north called SOUVLIA. Somewhat confusing as a long, sand beach on the other side of the bay appears to have the same name.

This one is only a small scrap of sand with a few trees for shade and surrounded by recently built villas and apartments.