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The main town of Santorini is called Fira, or Thera after the old name of the island. It cashes in on its position on top of the vertical cliffs above the main island port. A favourite port of call for visiting cruise ships, most visitors are here for just a few hours, drifting in and out of the bars and restaurants with cameras ready at nightfall to catch a glimpse of the fiery sunsets over the deep islet dotted caldera.
Cruise ships tie to the giant floating buoys in the harbour and passengers take the cable car to the top or they can take their chances up the steep zigzag path on the back of a mule. Only the foolhardy will attempt the 250m climb, not only because it is very steep but because they are likely to be jostled out of the way by passing mules.
Fira is a picturesque town with its whitewashed houses, blue domed churches and the deep caldera far below. It's also an expensive town, with premium prices charged at tavernas and bars with the best views. Almost every shop sells souvenirs from polished lava stones to the ubiquitous pumice that can be picked up off the ground for free. Despite the rip off atmosphere it is a pleasantly romantic place to stay and the views really are spectacular.
There is a small archaeological museum close to the cable car station. Most exhibits are from Ancient Thera, near Kamari, and includes 8th century pots and urns painted in red and black, notable for the bird and snake symbols. Tickets to the archaeological museum also gains entrance to the Museum of Prehistoric Thera to the south of the town where there are artifacts from Akrotiri, a village buried and preserved by a volanic eruption. Highlights are some splendid frescos and a gold model
ibex.
Fira is the starting point for boat trips to the volcanic islets in the caldera. The most popular is to Nea Kameni, whose active crater still gives off sulphurous whiffs. At Palea Kameni is a bay, good for swimming, warmed by heat from the volcano.