Acres of polythene greenhouses make for an unattractive first impression of the beaches at FALASARNA on the west coast of Crete.
The road runs along the cliff to give wide views of the coastal plain below and the dozens of scruffy greenhouses set up for growing tomatoes and cucumber.
Once on Falasarna beach however the agri-indutrial scene is lost and you find one of the most attractive beaches in Western Crete.
Beautiful bays of white sand spread along the coast at Falasarna, interspersed with rock pools and sheltered shallows. The west-facing sands are well sheltered from the usual northerly breeze and there are pleasant and interesting walks along the coast among the rocks and below the cliffs.
Tavernas, bars and cafes have sprung up in response to Falasarna's growing popularity but these are confined to the cliff tops so beaches remain pretty well unspoiled.
The Falasarna cliffs are not too high either so its is not too much of a trek for a meal break and one taverna owner has even constructed a bizarre walkway of wood and rope.
Sun loungers and parasols are available on Falasarna sands located closest to the cafes. Some coves are littered with empty plastic cigarette lighters, a reminder that the place is popular with ad-hoc campers Passing ships also deposit flecks of tar occasionally.
Despite these imperfections the sands at Falasarna are mainly clean and pleasant. Shoreside walks abound to reveal lovely scenery while rocks pools and shallows make this a safe place for children to play.
There are some interesting archaeological remains but they are widely dispersed and difficult to find. A 2km dirt road runs up the rocky outcrop to the remains of an ancient acropolis.
At the start of the track is a chair chiselled into the rock and at the end some scant remains of an ancient city seaport of Polyrinia. Here also are jumbled remains of some walls and foundations of houses from Ottoman to Venetian times.
Falasarna was once a serious rival to Polyrinia but suffered a massive earthquake in the 6th century. The road out of Falasarna takes you to the mountain village of PLATANOS which has a couple of pleasant cafes. The less pleasant tomato farms can generate lorry traffic on the very narrow roads.
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