Greek islands
   
 

Crete Frangokastello
   
Crete
Built in 1371 to subdue the local population and warn off passing pirates the Venetian castle at Frangokastello soon fell to the Turks. Cretan rebels, led by Dalianis, tried to lay siege but were quickly routed. Nowadays, at dawn on the anniversary of the battle the ghosts or 'dew shadows' of dead soldiers are said to wander the beach. Dalianis is remembered in local folk songs as a hero who died for the cause, an archetypal Cretan hero or 'palikari'. Impressive from a distance, the castle itself has less to offer at close quarters. Frango-themed facilities have begun to sprout up around the place. Indeed, the ruin looks increasingly preposterous amid the newly built 'Frango' tavernas and 'Kastello' mini-markets - there is even a 'Castello' travel agent. A few years ago it was little more than a rubbish tip but strenuous efforts have been made to clean it up.  
     
  Frangokastello  
     
         
 Frangokastello The beach is a splendid flat swathe that sweeps around the bay to a spit of underwater rock. This forms a protective barrier for the shallow waters of the bay. A simple beach taverna offers the basic facilities including a few sun loungers. At the western end a small harbour gives way to a large but not intrusive holiday bungalow complex. The majestic mountain backdrop does more than give fine views. It often keeps rain at strong northerly winds at bay. Twice I have driven down from squalls and rough seas in the north to sunbathe on the sands and swim in tranquil calm seas off the beach at Frangokastello.  
         
     
Frangokastello 
   

A tourist survival guide to the Greek island of Crete