Aegina Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Aigina

Aegina town

Although a busy port, the main town of AEGINA TOWN also looks a bit like a movie set. The crescent shaped harbour is backed by neoclassical houses - some painted in bright colours - with tavernas, coffee shops and cafes trailing along the water's edge. The waterfront indeed is where everything gravitates - unfortunately including most of the traffic. Dozens of bars and clubs emphasize that this is a party island, yet narrow streets and quiet corners ensure it hasn't lost all its charm.
Small cafes abound and the island-grown pistachios are sold everywhere, though most notably, and not particularly cheaply, at the growers' cooperative by the harbour gates. Boats moored to the quay also sell fruit, nuts and other delights and, apart from the usual tourist boutiques, there are many shops specialising in locally made pottery.
Tables are put out on the promenade at night and tasseled horses pull the tourist traps (so well named) along the main promenade A rather austere and much photographed chapel, dedicated to St Nicholas, sits alone at the water's edge looking a trifle out of place.
The resort's proximity to Athens has made it a favourite with holiday home developers. Rich Greeks have thrown up many downright ugly retirement homes that give some parts of the town a flat, suburban air.
Nevertheless there is much to see. The Greek Orthodox cathedral of Agios Demetrios is where the first government of modern Greece was sworn in and the old Government House is now a good library. North of the town at Cape Kolono is a fluted 23-ft high column looking rather lost and decrepit, the last remnant of a temple built in the 5th or 6th century BC to Apollo, but recent excavations in have uncovered a theatre and a stadium, though the jumble of ruins and rubble is rather perplexing.
The Aegina Archaeological Museum, the first museum of its kind in Greece, houses some significant island finds, though the best was shipped to Athens many years ago. There are three open-air cinemas during the summer with shows at 9pm and 11pm.

Marathonas

MARATHONAS is what passes for a traditional fishing village these days and can be found about 4km south of Aegina Town almost half-way to Perdika. It's a pretty village of just 250 or so permanent inhabitants and has a relaxed atmosphere with houses climbing behind the resort on the steep hillside were you can get spectacular views out to sea. The hills also offer opportunities for hill walking and even mountain climbing. There are two beaches near here; one pleasantly sandy and the other not so good. There are plenty of tavernas along this part of the coast hoping to catch passing trade out of the main town. Nearby is the imposing monastery of Panagia Chrysoliodis, dating from the 16th century.

Faros

The coast road south to Perdika is lined with tavernas opposite sandy coves backed by pistachio groves and eucalyptus trees at AEGINITISSA and PROFITIS ILIAS until you reach FAROS, which is most noted for some beautiful neoclassical buildings and for a less than classical giant water park - basically a big pool, a couple of decent water chutes and scores of sun beds.
If you take the road to Perdika, after passing the petrol station and turn left after a large pink building and follow the dirt road to Sarpa beach. It has been cleaned and upgraded and there are now umbrellas, a volleyball area and a small cantina.

Perdika

The pleasant fishing village of PERDIKA has lately been invaded by hotels, though it manages to cling on to some original Greek charm with its picturesque flower-bedecked side-streets and pleasant fish tavernas. Its big problem is the surrounding countryside which, unlike the rest of the island, is a boring and barren moonscape. The resort itself is perched on a promontory with a large marina where luxury yachts join the small fishing boats. Shady tavernas sit above and behind on the high walls that line the utilitarian strip of battleship grey concrete that tries to pass for a promenade. Excursion boats leave regularly for the islets of Moni just offshore and Angistri, about 4km east.
Just before Perdika, heading south , is a small beach called Klima or Klidi. There is music and dancing on the beach with DJs from Athens Klima is a popular bay for yachts.Turn left at first crossroads before you reachPerdika, turn right (after 500m and follow the sign to Klima, with a left turn just before the beach.

Moni

The uninhabited islet of MONI sits opposite Perdika and there are regular 15-minute ferry trips across from the marina. Someone once tried to build a hotel there and the remains are still evident. It was once owned by the Monastery of Chrysoleontissa - hence the name - but is now apparently the property of the Touring Club of Greece which levies a small charge for visitors and runs a campsite on the northern slopes.
Thickly wooded on its western side, it has become something of a nature reserve with deer, rabbits, wild goats - and peacocks that squabble for scraps from day trippers. There is a path to the summit and the reward is the view of a German bunker left over from the war. The islet has a small sand and stone beach with shallow waters but the rocky shoreline is probably more suitable for those who enjoy snorkeling.

Portes

The tiny sea port of PORTES is reached overland from Aegina Town or along the coast road south from Aghia Marina. It perches rather dramatically over the sea and has a long but stony beach of little interest. A little way inland is the Ekpaz wildlife sanctuary which has handled around 5,000 animals and birds since it was opened. Entry is free and you get a guided tour from 10am to 7pm. It has a small souvenir shop where you can make a donation to the excellent work going on there.

Aghia Marina

AGHIA MARINA is the busiest place on the island, utterly devoid of charm and must rank as one of the ugliest resorts in Greece. Busy, noisy and tacky with apartment blocks along the coast it's about as attractive as an egg crate. A pity, as the long, wide sandy beach is the island's biggest and, gently shelving, is ideal for children with every sort of tourist facility - including a bewildering array of water sports - readily available. One of the biggest problems in the high summer is finding a spare sun bed.
Trees at the back of the beach offer good shade and steep wooded slopes lead up to the temple of Aphiaia that perches on the sheltering hills above. On the other side of the harbour are cliffs and shallow waters and the rocky cost to the north leads to some quiet, sheltered coves.
Resort life centres around the busy beach and the streets leading to it. Tavernas, bars,shops and cafes are plentiful and weekending Athenians often pack the marina out with their boats. The resort is also the main dropping off point for those visiting the archaeological attraction at the nearby temple of Aphiaia. To escape the tourist tat head for the nearby village of Alones where there are some excellent tavernas, or head north along the coast for the quieter coves.

Alones

A short walk south out of Aghia Marina brings you to the picturesque inland village of ALONES nestling in a deep green valley, where there are a number of tavernas - the most notable being Kostas and Takis - that are a favourite for night out specials. Horse-buggies wait to take the more soft-headed romantic diners back to Aghia Marina afterwards. Who could resist?

Mesagros

MESAGROS is a mountain village much boosted by its proximity to the temple of Aphea. It's well known for its flowers, many unique to the area, and for its ceramics. Also of interest is the house of Rodakis, a fine example of 1880s architecture in very good condition. On May 21 there is a village festival centred around the church of Agios Konstantinos.

Vayia

VAYIA or VAGIA is a small port around 4 km east of Souvala. It has a small sand and shingle beach and a couple of old-style tavernas. Eastwards along a coastal path are isolated coves. In the centre of the resort are another two tavernas and a cafe. It's fortunate in having missed out on the tourist explosion of the main resorts and has a relaxed air of a bygone age. Nearby is the village of Agius, smothered in pines and noted for its water jug pottery and the church of the Apostle Crispus.

Souvala

Up to the 1960s SOUVALA was a busier trading harbour than Aegina but the explosion in tourism left it trailing behind. Its workaday past is betrayed by some drab industrial buildings and a general utilitarian air but it still has some charm and a small if unremarkable beach of coarse sand and shingle.
Today it's mainly a holiday village for Greeks and crammed with flats and small houses, many of them second homes for rich Athenians - this being the nearest port to the mainland. There's a good range of tavernas around the harbour where you can see the lights of Piraeus on a clear night. The resort is also well known for its health spa for sufferers of rheumatism and those with various skin disorders.

Kipseli

In the midst of pistachio and olive groves in the north west of the island is the village of KIPSELI with its fine central platia and traditional two-storey homes. The name means 'beehive' and local tales have it that the village was renamed after protests from local girls at the former name of Halameni which meant 'ruined'. This is the most prosperous area of the island with extensive orchards and farms stretching over the green plain. The village is noted for its huge number of chapels, another reflection of the area's wealth.

Aphiaia temple

The temple of APHAIA,(APHAIIA or APHEAE) stands on a pine covered hill around 4km from the bay at Aghia Marina. The 5th century BC Doric temple is well preserved with some 24 limestone columns still standing, making it the main visitor attraction on the island.
It was dedicated to Aphaia - a hunting nymph daughter of Zeus and very much a local divinity - and first excavated in 1811 and again in 1901 when it was stripped of its most important artifacts which now grace the rooms of German museums. Some of the less important finds can be found in the museum in Aegina.
Archaeological work was resumed in 1966 and has continued on and off for 20 odd years. The temple is approached by a ramp from the east near former sacrificial altars. South of the temple are traces of an entrance gate and the priest's lodgings.
A regular bus service goes past the temple from both Aegina Town and Aghia Marina. You have to pay to go in. It's been repeatedly struck by lightning so now there's a thundering great metal rod at one end. The views from here are staggering, at least where pine trees don't stand in the way.

Nektarios church

The remarkable AGIA NEKTARIOU or NEKTARIOS is a place of pilgrimage for the sick and disabled, not unlike Lourdes but without the lamentable tourist circus. A former dean of the School of Theology in Athens St Nectarios was renowned for his healing powers and was the first saint to be canonised by the Orthodox Church in modern times. He is buried here and is the patron saint of those with cancer, heart trouble, arthritis, epilepsy - even the unemployed.
St. Nectarios lived from 1846 until 1920. The church - said to be the largest in Greece - is south of Souvala on the main road from Aegina Town to Aghia Marina and there are plenty of buses. There is a mass pilgrimage each November which Patricia Storace describes in her book Dinner with Persephone. There is a good taverna opposite when you get tired of trudging around.

Paliochora

South of Aghia Nektarios a track leads to ruins at PALIOHORA or PALEOCHORA and several other variations, once the capital of the island under the Venetians and the Turks when the coast was plagued by pirates. The former town is set in the side of a steep hill, crowned with the ruins of a Venetian castle. In the 18th century there were around 400 homes here and 20 or so churches. The town was abandoned in 1826 and most of the houses demolished but a cathedral and some chapels have been restored and many contain excellent frescoes and impressive iconostases though you need permission to view. Get there early and there is usually someone around to unlock doors and point out the most interesting sights - remember to offer a good tip for the trouble.

Camera Obscura House

On a hill near Perdika is a remarkable Camera Obscura House, with twelve openings. Light enters the covered WW2 gun emplacement to create a 360°12-part panoramic image of the outside world, upside down and reversed on a semi-transparent screen.

Chryssoleontissa convent

The former monastery of the Virgin Chryssoleontissa on the road to Marathon is now a convent and access is restricted. It dates from 1600 and has a splendid carved iconostasis. It stands high in the central hills - a one-hour walk south from Aghios Nektarios. There is a marked road but you still have to walk the last 300 metres or so.

Mount Oros

Mount Oros is Aegina's highest mountain, an extinct volcano, 532 metres high. A tiny chapel crowns the summit and on it's lower slopes is the ancient church of Taxiarchis. There are great views of surrounding villages such as Kpotides, Lazarides, Pahia Rahi and Vlahides. A road of stone steps leads from the road in the Pergaene region to an ancient site where it is said that Aeacus established the worship of Zeus.