Kos Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Cos

Kos Town

KOS TOWN is a lunatic mix of beach resort, open air nightclub and ancient ruins that spreads in all directions inland from the enclosed port. Greek and Roman remains, including elegant columns and beautiful street mosaics, are incongruously pitted against music-thumping street bars that are a nightmare of neon at night.
It was an earthquake in 1933 that unearthed most of the ancient ruins which were subsequently excavated and restored by the Italians. It was the Italians too that laid out the town's 'garden suburb' grid of streets that are liberally punctuated with splendid Ottoman and Italianate buildings. But it was the concrete mixer that poured out the town's predominant architectural style of army pillbox bunker.
The winner in the battle between ancient and modern has never been in doubt. Recent efforts have been made to right the biggest wrongs — a one- way traffic system, a sewage treatment plant, protection for more notable monuments, a traffic-free main square and a smart new marina.
But the town is at core vulgar fleshpot bedlam with a noisy, Neanderthal nightclub scene that attracts thousands of young drunks from all over Europe. The Eksaria area in particular is stuffed with bars and packed with several thousand revellers nightly.
If you do need to escape the crowds (and most here prefer to do the opposite) you must rise early and explore while the clubbers sleep. It is worth the effort. This is still a picturesque town, despite the drab functionality of most of the modern buildings. Neatly arrayed streets, wide and tree-lined, converge on small squares, profuse with flowers, vines and palm trees.
The newly built marina is worth a stroll and there is a wide and inviting promenade behind the beach, though you may have to dodge a silly green tourist train. The town's main Eleftherias Square, now mercifully traffic free, has the neatly restored Defterdar Mosque and some imposing, if pompous, Italianate buildings one of which houses the Archaeological Museum with its small but excellent collection of 3rd century Roman sculptures and mosaics. The square has a less than excellent collection of market stalls that peddle little other than tacky souvenirs.
Nearby is the less interesting of Kos' two main archaeological sites- the Agora. A sunken bowl filled with a confusing jumble of ruins of what used to be the town market. Just across a square is what purports to be the oldest tree in Europe. More than 50ft in diameter, it is said that Hippocrates himself was taught in its shade - a somewhat shady claim that would date the tree at 2,500 years. It was once supported by elegant marble pillars but nowadays must make do with ugly modern scaffolding.
Behind the tree is the Venetian Castle of the Knights, built in the 14th century. The castle is approached over a bridge that spans a splendid avenue of palm trees marching along what used to be the moat. Through an impressive 16th century gateway is an inner set of walls and a large compound liberally littered with crumbled statues and pillars. The castle walls are a patchwork quilt of stone, much of it plundered from the Agora and while, not particularly high, they are worth a walk to take in the views across the town and harbour.
The other excavated archaeological area is to the south, though it is called the Western excavation. It is by far the most interesting. Ruins include a Roman nymphaeum, with mosaic floors, and the remains of some fine houses. The best of these is the House of Europa where a floor mosaic depicts a well endowed Europa being carried off by a bull. There are a couple of paved marble streets and restored colonnades. A low and ugly block of buildings turns out to be the Casa Romana - a 3rd century Roman villa completely rebuilt and restored. It has three courtyards, some swimming pools, and even more mosaics. Nearby too is the Roman Odeon, a splendid theatre now beautifully restored.
Kos town beach marks the start of a long trail of sand leading all the way south to the cape at Agios Fokas. Nearer town the beach is narrow and noisy with edge-to-edge sun beds as far as the eye can see.

Kos Town visitor reviews

Platani

Inland from Kos town is the village of PLATANI, the last refuge for the island's dwindling Turkish community. In the 1960s there were around 3,000 Turks here but as the enmity between the two countries has grown so the population has declined to a few hundreds. This is still the place for a Turkish night out at one of the many restaurants, all of which are superior to any in Kos town. Nearby is a Jewish cemetery surrounded by pines. Dates on the headstones end abruptly in the 1940s when the occupying Germans shipped out all the Jews to die in concentration camps in 1944.

Asfendiou

West beyond Asklepion is a group of hamlets clustered on the green slopes of Mount Dikeos, or Dikaion, known collectively as the ASFENDIOU district. Lost in the greenery of the island's thickest forests this, sadly, is just about the only part of Kos that can genuinely be called traditional Greek nowadays. Here you can get a brief glimpse of what life must have been like before the package tour firms moved in - but not for much longer. The more accessible are beginning to succumb to the cash-rich tourists - and who can blame them?
At PILAIOPILI there is an amazing ruined castle perched proudly on a pinnacle of rock and giving wonderful views over hills and sea. ASOMATI has the most picturesque whitewashed houses on the island while EVANGELISTRA has some of the best tavernas.
At west facing ZIA the rot is already setting in as tour buses unload scores of visitors every evening to enjoy dramatic sunsets. That said, many enjoy the visit in an area known for the friendly locals who never seem to tire of the hordes. Tavernas are noted for good food and the village boasts the oldest windmill on the island. Many shops sell locally made thyme honey and olive oil.

Asklepion

Beyond Platani and 4km to the southeast of Kos Town stands the island's most famous and interesting ancient site, the ASKLEPION or AESKULAPIUM. Kos' native son Hippocrates is rightly remembered with street names, statues, a medical centre and even a tree but he is most completely celebrated at this ancient sanatorium, founded in 444BC not long after his death and now a major tourist attraction.
It was both a temple to the Asklepios, the god of healing, and a renowned Hellenic medical centre that functioned for about 1,000 years before falling into disrepair. The setting is magnificent, elevated on hillside terraces that are connected by a monumental marble staircase.
It sits above the village of ANATOLIA on four terraces linked by a marble staircase, with views across the sea to Turkey. Little of the original centre remains, thanks in a large part to repeated earthquakes and to the use of the site as a quarry by the Crusaders. It was extensively excavated by Germans in 1902 and the Italians re-erected some Corinthian columns dating from the 2nd century. A Doric temple, built some 400 years earlier sits on the highest terrace.
Local guides love to elaborate on the Hippocratic connection but the famous healer's life story is elusive and his links to Kos are very tenuous. He was certainly born here in 460 BC and he also died here in 357 BC. But he spent most of his life away from Kos, traveling throughout the Aegean and advocating his 'scientific' approach to medicine, gaining fame by halting plagues through the then novel practice of boiling drinking water and isolating the sick.

Psaldi

Around 3km to the south of Kos town - and really just an extension of it - is the tourist resort of PSALIDI. This is very much a holiday beach resort and doesn't consist of much other than a sprinkling of tavernas, a couple of supermarkets and lots and lots of large hotels.
Psaldi beach is not the best, consisting of scruffy pebbles and harsh shingle with a little sand here and there. Access is mainly down some very steep pathways. Beach facilities are what you would expect from hotel resorts - plenty of sunbeds and brollies, showers and toilets, beach bars and watersports.
The best area is known as Blue Beach, where there is a pleasant grassy area on which to sunbathe. What recommends Psaldi to holidaymakers is the proximity to Kos Town and its nightlife, along with all the trimmings that come with the luxury holiday hotel lifestyle. For those looking for beach holidays with plenty of nightlife in neaby Kos Town it's an attractive option. Buses to Kos town are frequent and cheap and there is a good cycle lane. You can also walk, though you take your chances with the mopeds and quad bikes that career along the road, day and night, in both directions.

Psaldi visitor reviews

Embros Thermi

It's popular with windsurfers but AGIOS FOKAS has little else to offer the visitor. The resort backs onto a scruffy beach of grey sand and grit and, to add to the delights, there's a thumping huge Club Med type complex to keep those noise levels high.
Beyond the headland on the southern coast are the hot thermal springs of EMBROS THERMI. The crowds thin out a little here and it is not too hard to appreciate why. Backed by brooding rocks, the black volcanic sands are unattractive and narrow.
The proximity of Kos town, a regular bus service, and the novelty of hot natural springs makes the place a popular target for day trippers, though many express disappointment at their visit. The hot springs flow straight into the sea over a gravel beach so it's ideal for swimming and snorkelling but its a long, hard trek back up the steep hill.

Lampi

LAMPI or LAMBI beach lies across the headland to the west of Kos town within bus, cycling or even walking distance, though dodging the traffic - mostly bikes - can be a headache. The sands have become more and more popular as people try to escape the crowded beaches of the island capital and it can now be said to be almost a busy.
The beach is a fine, long, straight and sandy stretch of white sand that goes on for anout 1km. It's considered my many to be the best family beach on the island with sand that shelves gently into the sea, making it safe for children.
The beach tends to attract daily visits from those staying in Kos Town as it is on a regular and frequent bus route. The traffic is usually in the opposite direction after 8pm when visitors head to town for the nightlife.
Like all northern beaches it can get windy at times and the waves can come crashing in. There are plenty of sun beds and umbrellas as well as lots of of watersports, including parasailing.
The resort used to be occupied by the military but the Greek army has long lost the battle with the tour operators who are now packaging up the place with an almost military precision.

Tingaki

Further west along the coast and separated from nearby Marmari by a vast salt marsh is TINGAKI or TIGAKI, a busy and often crowded beach resort that has become increasingly popular with British and German tour companies. The resort is a one-street affair packed with the usual bars, cafes and tourist shops. The landscape is flat and featureless except for the many hotels and apartments that are scattered across the rather unappealing plain.
Facing north, the long, deep and sandy beach gets its fair share of windy weather, so windsurfing is popular. In the most popular part of the beach there are plenty of sun beds for visitors. The beach is narrow in places but made up of good white sand backed by low dunes and you can wade out a good way offshore, making it good for children and families. The beach is fringed with a few cafes and bars, with more to be found in the main street and there are the usual watersports.
The sand improves the further west you go until you reach the salt pans where there are flat sands and shallow seas. There is a nude beach here, if you wade past the outfall from the salt lake.
Further west, the land turns to a marsh that can stay wet well into June, making this an ideal stopping off point for migratory birds, tame terrapins and zillions of mosquitoes. Beware pitching too near the shore - passing cruise liners can send waves crashing in and only those lying near the dunes will survive the wash.

Tingaki visitor reviews

Mamari

A few miles along the coast east of the salt pans is the beach resort of MARMARI or MARMARIS where the sands broaden and bank up into low-lying dunes. Slightly more sheltered from strong winds, Mamari enjoys quieter seas than Tingaki with the sand sloping more gently into the sea, though it can still get pretty rough in windy weather.
There is a local horse riding centre that takes full advantage of the flat sands but some local dispute over the legality of riding along the shoreline. The main resort is very popular with Germans while the UK hotels stand rather isolated along the shoreline.

Pyli

The inland road south from Mamari bring you to PILI, or PYLI, the joint name for three neighbouring hamlets of ARMANIOU, AGIOS GEORGIO and AGIOS NIKALO. The hamlets are set within verdant countryside and villagers here are mostly cattle farmers. The villages themselves are nothing special, but there is not much else to choose from in this neck of the woods if you want to take a break from beach resorts. You can visit the tomb of Harmylos, an ancient Kos hero.
From Pili the road leads to PALIO PILI where there is the well preserved remains of a Byzantine fortress that shelters a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary within its walls.

Mastichari

The fast developing beach resort of MASTICHARI or MASTIHARI has an attractive beach of flat white sand and has attracted package tour companies in some numbers. A forest of sun beds now adorns the shore, itself backed by a line of tavernas. Behind the tavernas lies a small warren of purpose-built shopping streets, neatly laid out and lined with tourist shops, cafes and small bars.
The beach itself is sharpish white sand - seen right devoid of the sun beds, a rare sight these days. At the western end of the beach is the remains of a 5th century basilica. Those seeking more privacy can take one of the many tracks that appear beyond the power station and tumble down to several sandy coves, backed by low cliffs. Underwater rocks can make the sea less than inviting for swimmers.
The resort has plenty of seashore restaurants and bars, half a dozen mini markets and a handful of gift shops selling the usual tourist trinkets. It is a quiet, relaxed and low key resort and this area of Kos is a big favourite with German tourists. The long harbour wall stretches out to sea for 200m or so if you want to catch one of the frequent ferries that leave for the nearby islands of Pserimos and Kalymnos.

Mastichari visitor reviews

Andimakia

Around 5km inland from Mastichari is one of the most photographed windmills on the islands at ANDIMAKIA or ANDAHAHIA. Pretty impressive it is too standing on the main street with sails unfurled and preserved as a working museum. This is a popular picnic spot for coach tours.
Just to the east along a well signposted road is a crusader castle overlooking the straits. It has an imposing gateway and you can walk along the west parapet for great views. There are a couple of interesting chapels nearby well worth a visit. Andimakia itself is a picturesque hamlet of whitewashed houses and flowers Nearby the large Venetian fortress dominates the central plain.

Kefalos

The island narrows to about 2km before expanding into the rugged volcanic area of KEFALOS. The village sits high on a headland with views along the whole south coast with the old town above and the sprawling bay and long beach resort of KAMARI below. The old town is an attractive mix of whitewashed houses with colourful doors and windows.
Views from the hill fort are impressive but the going is steep on foot. Even higher, and forming an impressive backdrop are the twin peaks of Mt Zini and Mt Latia, both spoiled by radio masts and Zini by extensive quarrying. This is is also the end of the line for island buses and an outpost for more adventurous hikes into the western wilderness that ends on the rugged peninsula at CAPE KIKELLO. Regular tours are offered to a nearby Byzantine church, to the ruins of the ancient Astypalia amphitheatre (once thought to be island capital) and to a cave at ASPI PETRA said to be inhabited in Neolithic times.
There are series of tiny beaches and coves on the west coast. Though the area is wild there is a cantina on top of the cliffs behind the main beach which is known as either WAVE BEACH or SUNSET BEACH. It can be reached by taking the west road out of Kefalos past the cemetery.
North of Kefalos is LIMNIONAS which has twin beaches each side of the peninsula and a small fishing harbour.

Kefalos visitor reviews

Kamari

The KAMARI bay area is the resort area of Kefalos with a 5km stretch of shingle and sand (mostly shingle) stretching almost to AGIOS STEFANOS. The beach is packed with restaurants and bars squarely aimed at the British tourist and it's chips with everything, large TV screens and expensive drinks.
It's hard to see how they all make a living as the resort is relatively quiet even in high summer and the cash spending youngsters are all living it up in Kardamena. This is very much a sedate resort for the middle-aged, and nothing wrong with that if you like a quiet holiday.
The shingle shoreline turns to large stones under the sea and dips sharply so the beach is not much good for children. The best sand is found near the Club Med complex and there is good swimming and snorkeling to be had.
The offshore islet of KASTRI is said to be within wading distance but swimmers take their lives in their hands given the volume of passing ski boats, surfboards and other water traffic. The water is crystal clear but known to be the coldest on Kos. Many visitors prefer to be based here at night and spend the days on Bubble Beach across the bay.

Agios Stefanos

The beach from Kamari stretches to AGIOS STEPHANOS, a once pretty village now overtaken, overshadowed and spoiled by a huge Club Med complex which has enveloped all the best sand. At this point the island is only 1km or so wide and even south facing beaches like this one have little protection from the howling meltemi winds. On the nearby headland are the remains of a couple of well preserved triple-aisled 6th century basilicas. There are some excellent bird mosaics here but they are usually covered in gravel and dust.

Paradise (Bubble), Camel, Banana, Sunny, Magic

Along a major stretch of the southern coast are a succession of sandy beaches, once scenic and secluded but now packed with holidaymakers. In reality a single stretch of sand for several kilometres sheltered by a cliff backdrop they have inherited rather silly Anglicised names. There is no resort here as such and holidaymakers flock in for the day from other island resorts, especially Kefalos and Kamari.

CAMEL beach is in a small pretty bay and has fine golden sand and some interesting and dramatic wind sculpted cliffs behind. There are also rock formations in the clear water to add interest but a less interesting, if not downright ugly, cement block behind that houses the beach cantina. It is less popular than some others, probably because the access from the large car park behind is very steep. It is also a favourite with nudists, mostly Swedish and Dutch.

PARADISE beach is also known as BUBBLE beach on account of underwater volcanic vents which warm the water a degree or two. It is immensely popular, gets very crowded despite its considerable length and is fully commercialised. Sheltering cliffs, good clean sand and shallow water make it ideal for families with children, provided the youngsters don't get lost among the hundreds of sun beds. There are several cantinas to feed the hungry crowds and this is a popular day out for those staying in Kefalos and Kamari across the bay. To see the bubbles you need to snorkel out to sea a bit; you won't see anything along the shoreline.

BANANA beach is probably the cleanest beach of the lot and the most picturesque, with junipers straddling the low sand dunes behind. But it is rahter small and less popular than its neighbour Paradise beach. This beach is also called LAGANDA.

More than 2km of sand is found at the much wilder SUNNY beach. The beach is long and narrow and backed by low scrub carpeted rocks. There are sun beds and cantinas but far fewer hotels around so it is tends to be much less crowded than the others.

At 3 km MAGIC, also called POLENI, is the longest, broadest and least tamed of them all. It is also the least populated, though there is still no shortage of sun beds and there are a few beach cantinas to provide the basics.

The far western end of this strip is the beach called either XEROKAMBOS beach or EXOTIC beach depending on whether you can pronounce Greek or not and is backed by an army tank and artillery range, so keep your head well down.

Kardamena

A generation ago, KARDAMENA was everything a picturesque Greek fishing village should be. Charming, friendly and famous for its particularly fine ceramics. It is now a monumental mess, a heaving tourist resort of down market discos and ugly burger bars that wouldn't look out of place on the Costa Brava. Menus of moussaka and red wine have been replaced by mountains of chips, baked beans and lager, predictably as low in quality as it is high in price.
Arm in arm with the transformation has come grim-faced exploitation at every corner. Sunburned visitors are here to be flayed by the sun and puddled with alcohol. Bars must turn off the ear howling music at midnight but clubs stay open to 3.30am in the week and 6am at the weekend. Names like Slammers, Bonkers and Crackers give a good idea of the standard. Street touts pester you to join foam parties and karaoke nights. Youngsters will love it to bits and, if you are in the market for a bout of singalong holiday fun this could be just the place.
A uniform grid of concrete closely follows the coastline and rows of bars and cafes open out onto wide sandy beaches that sweep out for around 5km either side of the resort. The usual beach entertainment and water sports abound.
You can catch a boat from here to the volcanic islet of Nisyros. At the end of the beach to the east is the self contained package resort of TOLARI, basically a 1,000-bed hotel complex where a village used to stand.

Kardamena visitor reviews

Pserimos

PSERIMOS is a small island about half way between Kos and Kalymnos. It would be an idyllic place but for the day trippers that descend in droves throughout the season. A few lucky visitors can find rooms to stay but not many as there are a mere 30 or so houses.
The main beach on the island is at Avlakia, a lovely stretch of golden sand, quickly covered in sunbedded bodies. Day trippers arrive like locusts and snap up all available sun beds, pack the tavernas and generally make a noisy addition to what would otherwise be a peaceful islet. Even the ferries have been known to queue to tie up to the small quay. Those boats that can't find a berth head off to neighbouring PLATYS which has a similar, but smaller, sandy beach and far fewer trippers.
There are a couple of other beaches, not as attractive but much quieter. One is at Vathy in the north, reached with a 30min walk along a well marked path to a cove of sand and pebbles. Another is at Marathounda to the west, a 45min walk to a pebble cove. The island is so smal that nowhere is more than an hour's walk in any direction
Day trippers make up almost all the visitors as there is so little accomodation on the islet. There are rooms to be had above the tavernas and one small store which gets stocked up by the daily boat that leaves Pothia on Kalymnos around 9am each day. Nearly all the other boats that pull in are on daily cruises between Kos and Kalymnos with a stop here and at Platys.

Nisyros

A boat trip to the island of NISYROS, NISSYROS or NISSIROS is very enjoyable. It has active volcanic fumeroles, steam vents, boiling mud and sulphur. The island also has a very pretty village with very narrow streets, bougainvillea and many other beautiful flowers.
Local travel agents charge much less than the big tour operators for trips to the island and smaller boats and tour parties can make for a more enjoyable trip. The walk up the crater is a bit scary with very steep and unfenced drops and don't go in plastic flip-flops - they could melt off your feet.