PAXOS or PAXOI is one of the smallest of the Ionian chain of holiday Greek islands off the western coast of mainland Greece at just 8km long by 3km wide.
Paxos feels like an island in miniature with dinky beaches, toytown villages and small, dainty mountains. This pretty island oozes charm and is covered in dense olive groves whose fruit is renowned for the highest quality olive oil.
Being such a small island, with just three main resorts, Paxos can sometimes feel crowded, especially when the Italians arrive on an August summer break. Paxos is also a favourite with yacht flotillas and a boat is the only way to it as there is no airport.
Though not particularly easy to get to Paxos is a sought after holiday destination for independent travellers.
Beaches are small and stony but, in high season, Paxos can get crammed as the overnight passing flotilla crews mix with the many day trippers.
Paxos has only three main resorts, all with natural harbours, and with Gaios the biggest and busiest.
Abundant flora and fauna make Paxos a favourite with amateur botanists and ornithologists, especially in spring.
The endless ranks of olive trees can make walks on inland Paxos hillsides pretty but monotonous. The ancient trees are rarely sprayed and each family has its own grove; the result is a golden oil that has snaffled a clutch of international medals.
The bane of Paxos is it popularity with day trippers. Boats disgorge them in droves and it is not unknown for ferries to queue to tie up. In high season expect crowded tavernas and higher than average prices.
Gaios harbour
Gaios approach
Gaios port
Most ferries arrive in the main toytown port at GAIOS, named after the saint who brought Christianity to the island. Tiny, compact and very attractive the resort has a crescent quayside backed by a handsome Venetian square.
Cafes and tavernas fringe the Gaios harbour and day trippers from Corfu and other islands provide plenty of business for the locals. Streets are too narrow for cars but it is not unknown to get stuck in human traffic in the high season.
A couple of outlying islets, Agios Nikolaos and Panagia, provide Gaios with natural protection from the sea and pleasant views for taverna customers,even if only glimpsed through the masts of opulent yachts moored at the quayside.
Views are better than the food, which tends to be bland and expensive - maybe because all the food is imported and, with a captive clientele, there is little incentive to improve.
Whitewashed alleys in Gaios lead off the main square and are stuffed with souvenir shops that target the better-heeled visitors. Wares are more sophisticated than usual - lots of good pottery and fine jewellery is on show.
Worth seeing are the castle on Agios Nikolaos, though you need a permit first from the local council and you can visit the monastery on Panagia islet.
The Church of Agios Apostoli behind the bus stop at Gaios has many fine icons and there is an ancient cistern to the right of the church.
Mogonissi
The road south out of Gaios take you round the headland to a narrow strip of pebble at PLAKES and a little further a longer stone strand at DEFTERI and another around the headland at BALLOS before you reach the tiny fishing port at AGIA MARINA where there is an early Christian church at the end of the beach.
There was a small pebble strand at nearby MOGONISI on the southern tip of the island until a new beach was dynamited out of the cliff and filled with sand to serve the clients of a nearby hotel. Mogonisi is actually an islet connected to Paxi by a short causeway of stepping stones.
If you feel more adventurous you can investigate the many small coves along this part of the coast. Great for swimming and sunbathing if you don't mind stretching out on a slab of rock.
North of Gaios the road loops around the headland with fine views across the Panagia islet in the bay to the port at GEROMONACHUS were ferries from Corfu, Parga and Igoumentisa pull in. There is an abandoned village here though the once deserted houses are quickly being snapped up by developers.
A sharp turn north takes the road along the coast past pebble strands at KIONI and KAMINI before turning inland again. Here a track leads down to the beautiful sheltered beach at KAKI LANGANDA set in a very pretty bay. The beach is dominated by a large villa and a beach cantina opens in the summer.
There are small beaches further north here at TRIPITIS and PIGMENI but they are accessible only on foot.
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Loggos
LOGGOS is the smallest of the island ports (which is saying something) and even more photo-snappingly picturesque than Gaios. It is not much more than a cluster of flower-decked houses overlooking a small fishing harbour.
The east facing quay at Loggos is an ideal spot for alfresco breakfast but you need to rise early or be prepared to squeeze by all the other tourists having the same idea.
The quality of the taverna menus at Loggos outshines the other resorts and it pays to book a table in the busiest summer months to ensure a meal. Picturesque seclusion is what sells this place and Loggos sometimes doubles as a film set.
Loggos has three mini markets and a bakery but not much in the way of tourist shops. There are a couple of bars and kafenion but no hint of a night club and long may it stay that way.
At one end of Loggos harbour stands the tall chimney at a disused soap factory. There been several plans to develop the site over the years as tourist apartments and even an arts centre but so far they have come to nothing.
Levericho beach
Kipiadi beach
Just south of Loggos is a beautiful shingle beach at LEVERICHO with has a beach taverna, unusual for Paxos. The beaches' proximity to Loggos means it gets busier than most, though that is not saying too much on quiet little Paxos.
The road curls inland here so it requires a walk to get to the shingle beaches of KIPOS and MARMARI. the latter set in a very pretty bay with the advantage of shade from the olive trees that grow right down to the shoreline.
There are many small coves in the area for those who like a spot to themselves, though many can only be reached by boat.
Further still is POUNDA which is served by a track from the main road. The track branches south and down a very steep track to the long pebble beach at KIPIADI, a favourite spot for yachts to anchor offshore.
Recent road improvements could mean this beach is about to get a lot more popular.
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Cash point
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Watersports
Lakka harbour
Lakka bay
LAKKA is approached through an unedifying building site, a bleak succession of half-built apartments. The least picturesque of the ports, Lakka still has a friendly, less inhibited and unimposing air. Indeed a visit to Lakka can make other ports seem snooty in comparison.
Lakka sits in a lovely horseshoe bay flanked by silver green olive groves and stands of cypress. The village itself has a small square hedged with Venetian buildings and a maze of narrow alleyways.
There are plenty of shops and mini markets and a fair number of tavernas and Italian restaurants. Music bars can stay open until the early hours.
Lakka resort is simply not big enough to cope with the volume of day tripping traffic and boats often queue up to get through the narrow strait into the bay, fouling the water before crowding the quayside.
Most ferries from Corfu arrive at noon and stop for 2-3 hours. To meet the demand tavernas and bars have multiplied and Lakka can now be a noisy place in the early afternoons.
Lakka is the best centre for island walking. There are several good tracks leading inland or along the coast for spectacular cliffside views.
Monodendri beach
Two pebble beaches around the western edge of the bay offer sunbathing. There is sand underfoot at HARAMI once you get in the water, a rarity on Paxos.
It also shelves gently into the sea so it is popular with families. The water is not always clean here though thanks to scores of yachts and boats that anchor in the bay. At the head of the bay is a small pebble beach at KANONI.
To get to beaches east of Lakka it is best to travel back inland along the asphalt road then branch off down one of the many tracks that lead to beaches.
First is ARKOUDAKI, accessible down a steep path and nearby ORKOS with a small pebble bay at LAKOS over the headland. The post popular beach along this stretch of coast is MONODENDRI ( the name means single tree).
There is another further south at GLYFADA but this can only be reached along a steep footpath from the south is rarely visited.
Paxos cliffs
Paxos caves
Shoals of day trippers head by boat for the beaches of for sea grottos mostly found on the limestone cliffs of the exposed west coast.
Hired boats are not allowed here so the only way to see it from the sea an excursion boat. You can walk coastal paths but, of course, you don't get to experience the majesty of the cliffs, although there are spectacular views.
The sea caves are stunning, quite the best anywhere in the Greek islands and some are large enough to take pleasure boats.
The cave at KASTANITHA is the most impressive at 600 ft high though the largest is at GRAMMATIKO. All are worth a visit.
The cliffs above ERIMITIS BAY are very popular, particularly at sunset and the Sunset Bar is a very popular place in the evening.
Follow the signs from the hamlet at BOIKATIKA to get to it.
Thanks to David Watrous of Greek Islands Club for the update
Voutoumi
Vrika
The neighbouring and uninhabited islet of ANTIPAXOS is very popular with day trippers and doubles as the main beach for those staying in Gaios.
There are houses on Antipaxos islet, which lies south of Paxos, but they are not occupied all year round. They are used by families that have vineyards there.
Excursion boats to Antipaxos are frequent in the summer and the journey time is only about 15 mins. A daily Antipaxos Lines boat leaves Gaios at 10am and returns at 5pm.
There are two beaches on Antipaxos, both at the northern end of the islet. VRIKA is sandy and VOUTOUMI is pebble, though sandy underfoot in the water.
The white sand and pebbles make for clear turquoise seas and some of the best swimming and snorkeling to be found in the Ionian. There are beach tavernas at both spots in the summer and paths run south where several quiet coves can be found.
Paxos, together with Antipaxos, make up the smallest island group in the Ionian chain. Paxos is about 16km south of Corfu and 20km from the mainland cost of Parga. It is about 8km long with an area of only 18 sq km. It's west coast dominated by steep white, chalk cliffs that are much eroded at sea level to create many 'blue caves'.
Much of the attractive interior is covered in olive groves - from Lakka in the north to Gaios, the capital in the southeast. Olive oil, soap making and fishing were supplanted by tourism it the 1970s which resulted in a building boom. Much favoured by Italian magnates, who have palatial, holiday homes here, Paxos real estate is some of the most expensive in Greece.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | |
| 11 | 12 | 15 | 17 | 22 | 27 | 30 | 29 | 24 | 21 | 17 | 12 | Avg day °C |
| 3 | 4 | 5 | 8 | 12 | 15 | 17 | 17 | 15 | 11 | 8 | 5 | Avg night °C |
| 4 | 5 | 5 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 12 | 11 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 4 | Sun (hrs) |
| 2 | 3 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 4 | 2 | 2 | UV Index |
| 155 | 148 | 103 | 75 | 50 | 22 | 13 | 10 | 64 | 132 | 187 | 190 | Avg rain (mm) |
| 12 | 11 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 5 | 2 | 1 | 4 | 8 | 11 | 13 | Days with rain |
UV: 3 Low; 3-5 Moderate; 5-8 High; 8 Very high | Rainy days=1mm+ | 1 inch=25.4mm
Paxos has plenty of winter rain which, in part, compensates for the island having no natural springs. After March the rain falls off sharply and many houses have water tanks to store winter rainfall. March, April and May are good for walking holidays as temperatures are comfortable and the island is full of wild flowers. Paxos has long hot summer days from June to September but becomes changeable in October and November with longer spells of rain from November to March.
The beautiful Greek Islands are renowned for their spectacular scenery, magnificent mountainous backdrops, stunning sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Holidays to the Greek Islands are often most cherished for this combination of sunshine, warm waters and beaches set against truly wonderful scenery. Whether it is a traditional beach holiday you would like or something with a little more history, you'll find that a break away to the Greek Islands is just the answer!
Paxos is part of a network called Cultural Village of Europe. It hosts an annual classical music festival late August/early September.
Cheap flights to Corfu from European airports
Details in most European languages and currencies
There is no airport on Paxos but since 2004 Air Sea Lines has operated a sea-plane ferry service from Corfu. There are four flights a day between Kerkyra and Gaios. It flies from Gouvia Marina on Corfu to Gaios with a free minibus from Saroko Square in Corfu Town and company offices based at the Old Port at El Vennizelou 32.
Air Sea Lines also operates from Corfu to Ithaca and Lefkas and also to Brindisi in Italy. Details of flights are on the AirSeaLines website or telephone 0030 26610 99316.
Most visitors get a charter flight to Corfu and then catch one of the regular ferries to Paxos. Or you can fly to Athens and get a bus to Igoumentisa where there is a daily ferry connection. This bus service only operates three days a week so it takes some organising to go by this route.
Paxos is served by a number of ferries though most visitors arrive in Paxos from Corfu. A direct car ferry operates between Corfu and Igoumenitsa on the mainland calling at Paxos. The ferry 'Ano Hora' runs daily and the ferry 'Agia Theodora' operates Monday and Friday. The Ano Hora leaves Corfu at 11am and Agia Theodora at 8.45am. Details on 0030 26650 21527.
The hydrofoils Santa II and Santa III run a daily service from Corfu - the journey takes about 1hr.
Private sea taxis to Corfu are available in Gaios and Lakka but they are not cheap. For the Lakka Express contact 0030 6977623033 (mobile) and for the Paxos Express contact 0030 6932232072 (mobile).
There are only two asp halted roads running the length of the island running from Gaios to Lakka, one on the east coast, the other on the west, with dirt tracks running off to the various beaches and clifftop sightseeing spots. Bike and car hire outlets are plentiful in Gaios.
An air conditioned minibus runs a regular round-trip service four times daily between Gaios, Loggos and Lakka.
There is a large taxi rank at Gaios and taxi ranks can be found at Lakka and Loggos. Fares are regulated.
Paxos is a good island for walking with scores of tracks criss-crossing the island and you are never far away from a small village or hamlet. The island is an endless olive grove, terraced with stone walls with many of the olives planted during Venetian rule.
There are around 150 old stone olive-presses, 63 chapels and several windmills on Paxos. The Bleasdale Walking Map of Paxos, available from many shops, details 53 footpaths. Foxy also has some splendid trails to follow on his site (see below).
The best walks can be found around Lakka with stunning views to be had and the road from Gaios to Loggos is a splendid walk with the hamlet at Fondana offering a rest half-way.
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PAXOS photo gallery by ELAINE
PAXOS photo gallery by LYNNE ADAMS
ANTIPAXOS photo gallery by LYNNE ADAMS
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