Paxos Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Paxi

   

Paxos or Paxi is one of the smallest of the Ionian chain of Greek islands that run down the western coast of mainland Greece. It is also one of the smallest islands to feature on the tourist map at just 8km long by 3km wide. It feels like an island in miniature too with dinky beaches, tiny toytown villages and small mountains. It is a very pretty island, oozing charm and covered in dense olive groves that are renowned for producing the best olive oil in Greece.
Being small, with just three main resorts, it can sometimes feel crowded, especially when the Italian arrives for their summer break. It is also a favourite with yacht flotillas and a boat is the only way to it as there is no airport. Beaches are small and stony. Though not in the package tour brochures it is one of the most sought after holiday destinations among independent travellers - not so much a place to see as to be seen. In high season it can get crammed with day trippers from nearby Corfu and for much of the it is a siren call to the yachting set whose floating egos pack the island's three tiny harbours.

Overview

Paxos Paxos is a Greek island in miniature. Tiny villages, tiny beaches and tiny hills - a bit like a trip to Legoland but with a tad more charm.
Paxos Abundant flora and fauna make Paxos a favourite with amateur botanists and ornithologists, especially in spring. Home to a quarter of a million olive trees, it is also reputed to give the best olive oil in the world - though other islands might dispute the claim.
Paxos The endless ranks of olive trees can make walks on inland Paxos hillsides pretty but monotonous. The ancient trees are rarely sprayed and each family has its own grove; the result is a golden oil that has snaffled a clutch of international medals.
Paxos The bane of Paxos is it popularity with day trippers. Boats disgorge them in droves and it is not unknown for ferries to queue to tie up. With just three resorts the visitor can, expect crowded tavernas and higher than average prices.
Paxos Paxos has only three main resorts with Gaios the biggest and busiest.

 

 

 

Ionian map

     
       
     
Gaios Paxos   Gaios Blue flag beach Blue flag beach

 

Gaios cash Cash machines
Gaios boat Boat hire
Gaios bus Bus to Lakka and Loggos

  Most ferries arrive in the main toytown port at GAIOS, named after the saint who brought Christianity to the island. Tiny, compact and very attractive the resort has a crescent quayside backed by a handsome Venetian square. Cafes and tavernas fringe the harbour and day trippers from Corfu and other islands provide plenty of business for the locals.
Streets are too narrow for cars but it is not unknown to get stuck in human traffic in the high season. A couple of outlying islets Agios Nikalaos and Panagia provide natural protection from the sea and pleasant views for taverna customers,even if only glimpsed through the masts of opulent yachts moored at the quayside. Views are better than the food which tends to be bland and expensive - maybe because all the food is imported and, with a captive clientele, there is little incentive to improve. Whitewashed alleys lead off the main square stuffed with souvenir shops that target the better heeled visitors. Wares are more sophisticated than usual - lots of good pottery and fine jewellery is on show.
Worth seeing are the castle on Agios Nikolaos, though you need a permit first from the local council and you can visit the monastery on Panagia islet. The Church of Agios Apostoli behind the bus stop has many fine icons and there is an ancient cistern to the right of the church.
Gaios
Gaios

Gaios

Gaios
     
Paxos Gaios   Around Gaios  
    The road south out of Gaios take you round the headland to a narrow strip of pebble at PLAKES and a little further a longer stone strand at DEFTERI and another around the headland at BALLOS before you reach the tiny fishing port at AGIA MARINA where there is an early Christian church at the end of the beach
There was a small pebble strand at nearby MOGONISI on the southern tip of the island until a new beach was dynamited out of the cliff and filled with sand to serve the clients of a nearby hotel. Mongonisi is actually an islet connected to Paxi by a short causeway of stepping stones. If you feel more adventurous you can investigate the many small coves along this part of the coast. Great for swimming and sunbathing if you don't mind stretching out on a slab of rock.
North of Gaios the road loops around the headland with fine views across the Panagia islet in the bay to the port at GEROMONACHUS were ferries from Corfu, Parga and Igoumentisa pull in. There is an abandoned village here though the once deserted houses are quickly being snapped up by developers. A sharp turn north takes the road along the coast past pebble strands at KIONI and KAMINI before turning inland again. Here a track leads down to the beautiful sheltered beach at KAKI LANGANDA set in a very pretty bay. The beach is dominated by a large villa and a beach cantina opens in the summer. There are small beaches further north here at TRIPITIS and PIGMENI but they are accessible only on foot.
Mogonissi
Mongonisi
     
Loggos Paxos   Loggos  

 

Loggos boat Boat hire
Loggos bus Bus to Lakka and Gaios

  LOGGOS is the smallest of the island ports (which is saying something) and even more photo-snappingly picturesque than Gaios. It is not much more than a cluster of flower-decked houses overlooking a small fishing harbour. The east facing quay is an ideal spot for alfresco breakfast but you need to rise early or be prepared to squeeze by all the other tourists having the same idea. The quality of the taverna menus here outshines the other resorts and it pays to book a table in the busiest summer months to ensure a meal. Picturesque seclusion is what sells this place and it sometimes doubles as a film set. There are three mini markets and a bakery but not much in the way of tourist shops thankfully. There are a couple of bars and kafenion but no hint of a night club and long may it stay that way. At one end of Loggos harbour stands the tall chimney at a disused soap factory. There been several plans to develop the site over the years as tourist apartments and even an arts centre but so far they have come to nothing.
Loggos
Loggos

Loggos
     
Paxos Loggos   Around Loggos  
   

Just south of Loggos is a beautiful shingle beach at LEVERICHO with has a beach taverna, unusual for Paxos. The beaches' proximity to Loggos means it gets busier than most, though that is not saying too much on quiet little Paxos.
The road curls inland here so it requires a walk to get to the shingle beaches of KIPOS and MARMARI. the latter set in a very pretty bay with the advantage of shade from the olive trees that grow right down to the shoreline. There are many small coves in the area for those who like a spot to themselves, though many can only be reached by boat.
Further still is POUNDA which is served by a track from the main road. The track branches south and down a very steep track to the long pebble beach at KIPIADI, a favourite spot for yachts to anchor offshore. Recent road improvements could mean this beach is about to get a lot more popular.

Levericho
Levericho

Kipiadi
Kipiadi
     
Paxos Lakka   Lakka  

 

Lakka cash Cash machines
Lakka boat Boat hire
Lakka bus Bus to Gaios and Loggos
Lakka diving Diving
Lakka surf Watersports

  LAKKA is approached through an unedifying building site, a bleak succession of half-built apartments. The least picturesque of the ports, it still has a friendly, less inhibited and unimposing air. Indeed a visit here makes the other ports seem snooty in comparison. It sits in a lovely horseshoe bay flanked by silver green olive groves and stands of cypress. The village itself has a small square hedged with Venetian buildings and a maze of narrow alleyways. There are plenty of shops and mini markets and a fair number of tavernas and Italian restaurants. Music bars can stay open until the early hours.
The resort is simply not big enough to cope with the volume of day tripping traffic and boats often queue up to get through the narrow strait into the bay, fouling the water before crowding the quayside. Most ferries from Corfu arrive at noon and stop for 2-3 hours. To meet the demand tavernas and bars have multiplied and it can now be a noisy place in the early afternoons.
Lakka is the best centre for island walking though as there are several good tracks leading inland or along the coast for spectacular cliffside views.
Lakka
Lakka

Lakka
     
Lakka Paxos   Around Lakka  
    Two pebble beaches around the western edge of the bay offer sunbathing. There is sand underfoot at HARAMI once you get in the water, a rarity on Paxos. It also shelves gently into the sea so it is popular with families. The water is not always clean here though thanks to scores of yachts and boats that anchor in the bay. At the head of the bay is a small pebble beach at KANONI.
To get to beaches east of Lakka it is best to travel back inland along the asphalt road then branch off down one of the many tracks that lead to beaches. First is ARKOUDAKI, accessible down a steep path and nearby ORKOS with a small pebble bay at LAKOS over the headland. The post popular beach along this stretch of coast is MONODENDRI ( the name means single tree). There is another further south at GLYFADA but this can only be reached along a steep footpath from the south is rarely visited.
Monodendri
Monodendri
       



   

PAXOS HIGHLIGHTS

Paxos top   West coast cliffs  

 

Thanks to David Watrous of Greek Islands Club for information update

  Shoals of day trippers head by boat for the beaches of for sea grottos mostly found on the limestone cliffs of the exposed west coast. Hired boats are not allowed here so the only way to see it from the sea an excursion boat. You can walk coastal paths but, of course, you don't get to experience the majesty of the cliffs though there are spectacular views.
The sea caves are stunning, quite the best anywhere in the Greek island and some are large enough to take pleasure boats.
The cave at KASTANITHA is the most impressive at 600 ft high though the largest is at GRAMMATIKO. All are worth a visit.
The cliffs above ERIMITIS BAY are very popular, particularly at sunset and the Sunset Bar is a very popular place in the evening. Follow the signs from the hamlet at BOIKATIKA to get to it.
Paxos cliffs
Cliffs

Caves
     
Antipaxos   Antipaxos  
    The neighbouring and uninhabited islet of ANTIPAXI is very popular with day trippers and the main beach for those staying in Gaios. There are houses on the islet which lies south of Paxos but they are not occupied all year round and used by families that have vineyards there.
Excursion boats are frequent in the summer and the journey time is only 15mins. A daily Antipaxos Lines boat leaves Gaios at 10.00 and returns 17.00.
There are two beaches, both at the northern end of the islet. VRIKA is sandy and VOUTOUMI pebble, though sandy underfoot in the water. The white sand and pebbles make for clear turquoise seas and some of the best swimming and snorkeling to be found in the Ionian. There are beach tavernas at both spots in the summer and paths run south where several quiet coves can be found.
Voutoumi
Voutoumi

Vrika
Vrika
   



paxos top  

PAXOS MAP

Paxos and Anti Paxos are 14 kilometres south of Corfu, 20 kilometres to the east is Parga on the mainland. Paxos covers some 19sq km and has a permanent population of 2,300, There are three main villages Gaios, Lakka and Loggos.

  Paxos map
   



paxos top  

PAXOS WEATHER

   
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC  
49> 50 53 58 65 72 77 77 72 66 57 52 Avg temp °F
68 72 77 82 91 96 108 104 99 91 77 73 Record high
0 0 2 6 24 30 31 31 30 26 5 0 70°+ days
5 6 7 7 9 10 11 12 9 6 4 3 Sun hours
     

 

Paxos weather
Paxos weather forecast (Preveza)

 
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC  
6.3
5.3
3.9
2.5
1.7
0.6
0.3
0.7
3.6
5.7
7.7
7.9
Avg rain (mm)
24.1 14.1 9.7 7.7 4.9 4.9 2.2 3.5 13.6 19.6 16.3 19.8 Record high
13 11 13 7 5 2 1 1 1 9 12 15 Rainy days
4 5 5 5 3 3 1 2 4 7 8 5 Stormy days
   



paxos top  

PAXOS FACTS

    Telephone +30 (0662) Cash machines
    Tourist Police: 32222
Health Centre: 31466
Port: 32259
Gaios (3)
Lakka (1)
  
Advert  
     
    Sailing

 

 

  paxos ferries There are regular ferries from Corfu, Parga and Igoumentisa on the mainland. Kerkyra Lines runs a car ferry "Agia Theodora" from Corfu to Paxos via Igoumentisa Monday - Friday. The trip takes around 3hrs 15m.
Hydrofoils Santa II and Santa III run a daily service from Corfu - the journey takes about 1hr.
     
    Driving
    paxos cars There are only two asphalted roads running the length of the island running from Gaios to Lakka, one on the east coast, the other on the west with unmade tracks running off to the various beaches and cliffs. Bike and car hire outlets are plentiful in Gaios.
paxos bus A regular air conditioned minibus runs a service between Gaios, Loggos and Lakka
     
    Flying

holidays

  AirSea Lines now runs a seaplane service several days a week. It flies from Gouvia Marina on Corfu to Gaios with a free minibus from Saroko Square in Corfu Town and company offices at the Old Port at El. Vennizelou 32. Visit their website at www.airsealines.com
     
    Walking
    Paxos is a good island for walking with scores of tracks criss-crossing the island and you are never far away from a small village or hamlet. The island is an endless olive grove, terraced with stone walls with many of the olives planted during Venetian rule. There are around 150 old stone olive-presses, 63 chapels and several windmills. Only 10 km long and 4 km wide, the island is easily walkable and The Bleasdale Walking Map of Paxos, available from many shops, details 53 footpaths. Foxy also has some splendid trails to follow on his site ( see below).
The best walks can be found around Lakka with stunning views to be had and the road from Gaios to Loggos is a splendid walk with the hamlet at Fondana offering a rest half-way.
   



 

PAXOS PHOTO GALLERIES

   
   
   



Paxos  photos  

PAXOS SITES

    A personal pick of websites on Paxos
 
     
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A tourist survival guide to the Greek island of Paxos