SAMOS sits close to the Turkish coastline, a large, long and mountainous island that was once one of Greece's wealthiest and full of architectural wonders from the ancient world.
Unfortunately, much of Samos' heritage has fallen foul of hotel builders and cement mixers. In the more popular resorts such as Pythagorion and Kokkari, ready-mix cement has permanently paved Samos' glorious past. In others, rough Greek edges are polished smooth and to some Samos will seem more holiday village than Greek village - a meek holiday retreat for the middle-aged.
But it's not all bad. Samos has something for everyone, from big beach hotels to rustic hill villages. It has miles of sand, towering mountains, singular scenery, attractive coves and lush woods.
Samos is a big island and roads can be wearily long, winding and tiring. Luxury hotel seekers will head south and east while the adventurous take to the west and north.
Nature was kind to Samos and gave the island a dramatic and highly indented coastline that is perforated with long, sandy beaches and small shingle coves.
Inland Samos has abundant springs and two magnificent mountain ranges encircled by gentle rolling hills. Samos is so attractive in places it's hard to believe it wasn't deliberately planted, pruned and preened by some landscape artist.
Samos was once home to some spectacular sights, including a marble paved road lined with 2,000 statues and a temple to rival the Parthenon. But bulldozers have left precious little in their wake
Where Samos island's heritage hasn't been buried it has been polished and prettified but rarely enhanced, with an often misguided swathe of civic 'improvements'.
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Samos Town
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Noted for its beauty when approached from the sea, SAMOS TOWN - also called VATHY or VATHI - sits at the head of a deep horseshoe bay. Pastel houses and weathered red tile roofs tier down the dark green hillside to a long and deep waterfront promenade. On landing, however, the beauty fades quicker than your tan.
The long Samos Town waterfront is a noisy snarl of tourist shops and tavernas. The latter are noteworthy for tacky decor, measly portions and high prices. Just behind the waterfront is a steep rise of streets, heaving with hotels that are mostly block-booked by package tour companies.
Samos is a provincial town of some 6,000 people but with surprising little to offer, given its size. In the middle of the waterfront is the main square, guarded by an imposing stone lion and edged with tree-shaded cafes. Further inland is a tiny, but attractive, municipal gardens.
Samos Town's main point of interest lies nearby at an exceptionally good archaeological museum. Exhibits are arranged in two buildings. The modern one was specially constructed to house the largest surviving example of a kouros statue. It stands 5m tall and dates from 575BC.
The older building has many ancient Egyptian, Turkish, Cypriot and Syrian artifacts testifying to Samos' ancient trading wealth. Most notable are a dozen or so bronze griffin heads. All the exhibits are well displayed with good explanations in English.
There is also a Byzantine museum in the Bishop's Palace which, while not as arresting, is still worth a visit to see the icons, some 18th century silver bibles and a bizarre cast of St George's footprint.
The road south out of Samos Town heads off to the hillside village of ANO VATHI. In Samos town's heyday as a tobacco port, Ano Vathi was a pirate refuge and the town below is sometimes, though rarely, still referred to as Vathi. The two were once quite separate but there is not much to divide them now other than the far greater visual appeal of the hill town.
The bottom of the hill is marked by a bunch of lively and atmospheric tavernas well worth a visit, although the recent arrival of a clutch of package holiday hotels nearby is ominous. The higher you climb the more picturesque it gets and the narrow streets thread their way between fine neo-classical houses and a few, sadly neglected, medieval churches.
Samos Town sits in a large bay to the north-east of the island. The road south heads to the port and to the south coast airport at Pythagorio and it neatly divides off the eastern area of Samos with its three mountains - Mt Katsarini in the north, Mt Profitis Ilias in the east and Mt Siharos in the south.
Along the eastern seaboard, beneath the mountains, are a series of widely scattered seaside resorts, all about an equal distance apart but all reached fairly easily along good roads that fan out from Samos Town in every direction.
Gagou beach Samos
The road north out of Samos Town leads almost immediately to the upmarket KALAMI suburbs where most holiday hotel accommodation can be found. The best beach area on this part of the coast is the beach at GAGOU or GANGOU that many regard as the Samos Town beach.
Gagou beach is a narrow strip of stone and shingle, only about 200m long and facing south-west, backed by a few decent restaurants. On the hillside behind the beach stand several squadrons of hotels and apartment blocks, notably the huge Gagou Beach Hotel complex. Despite the numbers of nearby hotels the beach at Gagou is relatively quiet - quite a contrast to noisy Samos Town yet within easy walking distance.
Sunbeds line the back of the shingle which slopes fairly gently into the sea. A line of low trees at the back of Gagou beach provides some good natural shade and sunbathers can watch the ferries sailing in and out of Samos harbour. A couple of tavernas at the northern end of Gagou offer food, drink and more shade.
Aghia Paraskevi beach Samos
The road runs north out of Samos Town, goes past Kalami and Gagou then round the headland to the north facing beach at AGIA PARASKEVI, about 6km from Samos Town. A long and ugly road runs right along the back of Agia Paraskevi beach which is no more than a thin strand of sand and shingle with barely enough room to lie down in places.
Facing north, Agia Paraskevi tends to attract rubbish and, although there is a pretty chapel and small attractive harbour at the eastern end, it generally feels rather bleak and unwelcoming. There is parking along the road and stone steps leading down from the beach wall but no shade or any sunbeds.
A couple of nearby tavernas at Agia Paraskevi have live Greek music most weekends and the countryside around here is also known for the wide variety of butterflies. There is another shingle strand west at ASPROCHORTI, found down a track off the main road before you reach Agia Paraskevi, but again there is no shade and no facilities.
Mourtia beach Samos
Megali Laka Samos
To get to MOURTIA you must take the winding east road out of Samos through the village of KAMARA. A left turn soon afterwards invites a steep climb to the 18th century monastery of ZOODHOKOS PIGI. set in thick woods on sea cliffs. A right turn descends to the fishing hamlet of Mourtia, about 7km from Samos Town.
The small beach of steeply banked shingle is outstandingly beautiful with great views across the straits to the Turkish coast. Palm trees overhang Mourtia beach and occasional stands of tamarisk provide shade. The bay and the tint harbour always seem to be packed with small boats.
The water is particularly clear on this part of the coast and Mourtia is a great place for a picnic as there are no organised facilities here, although a beach cantina may open in the high season.
There are small, deserted coves to be found to the south of Mourtia notably at MIKRI LAKA and MEGALI LAKA. The latter has a small chapel and a beach cantina in the summer and a few sun beds are sometimes put out on the stony strip, a welcome extra on a beach with little or no shade. Both beaches are down dirt tracks and are best reached on foot.
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Kerveli Bay Samos
The other notable resort of Samos east coast is at KERVELI. Here you must take the south road out of Samos Town, though Ano Vathi up to the hill village of Paleokastro, then down through a long valley to the small, quiet and strikingly pretty seaside resort which lies about 8km from Samos Town by road.
A line of large shady tamarisks line the shingle beach at Kerveli to give plenty of natural shade. The beach is long and deep, though it narrows at the northern end where tavernas line the shore.
The Kerveli resort has grown in popularity in recent years and a clutch of quite ugly squat apartments have been built behind the beach but they are hardly intrusive. This is very much a resort that lies off the busy, beaten tourist track.
Kerveli is a quiet, secluded spot for those seeking an out-of-the-way holiday but not too remote. Kerveli village has a couple of good tavernas but a car is needed unless you intend to crash out on the beach every day.
There are some fine walks to be had in the Kerveli area with the mountains of Profitis Ilias to the north and Siharos to the south.
Posidonio Samos
South of Kerveli and about 10km from Samos Town and south facing is the beach of POSIDONIO or POSIDHONIO. The drive is one of the best on the island through wooded hills with panoramic views along the way. Posidonio itself is more harbour than beach.
There is a splendid line of shady tamarisk at one end of Posidonio with a small stretch of shingle beneath them and a number of very small pebble coves dotted around the bay. There are sunbeds here, several tavernas - some at the water's edge, and a few cafes. Windsurfing is popular here in the shallow bay.
Just west across the headland at Posidonio, about 1km away, is the small beach of SIDERA or SIDERAS. It can hardly be called a beach, just a small scar of pebbles and rock but it is very peaceful.
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Psili Ammos beach Samos
Further west things pick up at the attractive sandy cove at PSILI AMMOS where there are a clutch of good tavernas. Psili Ammos translates as 'fine sand' and that is just what you find here. There are actually three beaches on Samos with the same name.
However, this splendid beach is by far the most popular and quickly fills up with day trippers from Samos town. It gets even more crowded when the excursion boats arrive.
The sea at Psili Ammos is very shallow in the bay and you can wade out quite a distance, one reason why the beach is popular with families. There are tavernas here and sunbeds along with plenty of shady trees. The islet of Vareloudi gives offshore interest. Watersports are popular at Psili Ammos as well but there are strong offshore currents out in the straits and notices warn of danger if you stray too far from land.
There is an area of salt marsh and a lake to the westof Psili Ammos, which dries out into salt pans in the summer. This is a good bird spotting area and flamingos can be seen early in the season.
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Mykali beach Samos
West of Psili Amos are 3km of windswept sand and shingle at MYKALI. The south facing resort has attracted three large package holiday hotels despite the large salt lake area on the headland to the east being a protected nature reserve where storks, herons and flamingos are frequent winter visitors.
The Mykali beach is a mixture of stone, shingle and sand but turns to sand under the water. Sunbeds and beach cantinas appear in the most popular spots of Mykali beach during the high season.
The north coast of Samos has the main ports of Samos Town to the east and Karlovasi to the west. Between the two is one of the island's premier beach resorts at Kokkari and beyond that some of the prettiest inland villages in the wine growing regions on the northern hillsides of the mountains of Lazarou, Ambelos and Aloni and the Kakorema valley. A good road runs the length of the coastline, often close to the cliffs, with sea views one side and mountain slopes on the other. Resorts beyond Kokkari get steadily more sleepy and relaxed as the tourist visitors reduce.
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Kokkari bay Samos
Kokkari beach Samos
Kedros beach Samos
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Once a quaint fishing village, KOKKARI has seen huge expansion into one of the premier tourist resorts on Samos. It is now the third largest resort on the island after Samos Town and Pythagorio with rows of new apartments and low-rise hotels thrown up to meet ever growing demand.
Like Samos town, the waterfront at Kokkari is lined with tourist grabbing restaurants, cafes and bars. Traditional tavernas are now making way for the more lucrative cocktail bar and nightclub trade as the locals cash in on the growing trade. That said, Kokkari is nowhere near as raucous as other 18-30 Greek resorts and appeals more to the middle aged with families than young 'up for a larf' lager louts.
Don't expect a traditional Greek atmosphere at Kokkari - you won't find it - but Kokkari does cater to the needs of less discriminating visitor pretty well. A bypass has relieved the place of the heavy traffic that once plagued the village centre and all you can hear is the soft tread of parading tourists as they browse the trinket shops and street cafes where cups of cappuccino are much more evident than glasses of ouzo.
A couple of picturesque rock outcrops either side of the bay at Kokkari makes for a charming vista that has cameras clicking and the narrow beach causeways that lead to them are heavy with small boats and lounging sunbathers. The main rock outcrop separates the old village of Kokkari from the modern resort to the west with its long stone and shingle beach.
The main Kokkari beach is not particularly pleasant, it has to be said. Banks of stone and shingle drop sharply to the sea and apartments overlook most of the beach, with the occasional taverna here and there to offer refreshments. Exposed and windy, the north facing beach is a favourite venue for windsurfers and there is some serious surfing done here.
Those looking for quieter Kokkari beaches can head south-east where there are a couple of smaller coves, both shingle but they tend to be quieter and more sheltered than the main beach and have a decent taverna on the hill behind. A further 4km southeast is KEDROS where a signposted turn off the main road drops down to a couple of shingle coves, though there are no facilities here.
The steep wooded hills behind Kokkari have some of the most attractive landscape on Samos and it is inland that more traditional Greek village delights can be found, with many splendid walking trails through the woods.
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Lemonakia beach Samos
Those looking to escape the commercial surroundings of Kokkari often head 2km northwest to the sand and pebble beach in a sheltered bay at LEMONAKIA.
Lemonakia beach is about 100m off the main road and is smaller and narrower than its popular neighbour Tsamadou just around the headland. As a result it often gets pretty crowded but is nevertheless less a pleasant beach.
A couple of rows of sunbeds line the Lemonakia shore and there are tamarisk trees behind to give good shade. A large beach taverna sits at the western end of Lemonakia beach. It is mostly pebble, both onshore and underwater, with a little sand here and there. There are regular buses to Kokkari and Karlovasi.
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Tsamadou beach Samos
North-west over the headland from Lemonakia is TSAMADOU, a beautiful long sickle of sand and pebble that features on almost every advertisement for Samos. Difficult access fortunately left it relatively unscathed and it has managed to escape the civic 'improvements' enjoyed by so many other beaches.
Tsamadou is set in a beautiful bay at the bottom of a very steep path. There are a couple of excellent tavernas shaded by trees and a beach cantina opens in the high summer. Tsamadou is mostly pebble and shingle but slopes very sharply into the sea, so it's not a favourite with families.
Tsamadou is also the only official nudist beach on Samos with the eastern end set aside for naturists.
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Vourliotes taverna Samos
The hills inland in this area of Samos are noted for wine growing. The hills rise to the village of VOURLIOTES, at 340m, where there are wonderful panoramic views to the sea over fields of rolling vineyards. Fresh springs at Vourliotes keep the landscape lush and green and this village is noted for producing more wine, mostly Muscat, than any other area in Samos.
Vourliotes is full of atmosphere with flower decked walls, brightly painted doors and shutters and a very pretty central square lined with tavernas serving local delicacies. The village also has a few sites worth visiting such as the little country church of Agios Ioannis, the monastery of Panagia Vrodiani dating from 1428 and one of the oldest on the island, and the Kastro Lazaros medieval castle.
Near Vourliotes is The Pnaka spring, just below the village and a favourite picnic spot with shady plane-trees, fresh spring water and a picturesque little taverna.
Manolates Samos
The neighbouring village of MANOLATES is not as pretty at Vourliotes but it does have a magnificent situation at the head of a steep canyon and it is a popular starting point for treks up Mt. Ambelos. There is a marked trail to the top at the end of a dirt track beyond Manolates village past some charcoal pits and a convent. It is not a particularly difficult climb and you are rewarded with some stunning views.
The road to Manolates passes through the Aidona Gorge, a popular picnic spot where tourist pavilions have been built among the ivy covered trees and nightingales are said to sing on spring evenings. Manolates village itself is set among rolling vineyards and has some excellent tavernas as well as shops selling handmade local pottery.
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Avlakia beach Samos
Tsambou beach Samos
Back on the coast is the sheltered and peaceful resort of AVLAKIA. This is a tiny resort, usually bypassed by tourists. Only about 150 people live here and Avlakia beach is only a thin strip of white stone backed by large tamarisk trees for shade and a wall of bamboo for added shelter. The houses hug the shoreline beyond the beach and there are a couple of good waterside tavernas that sit between Avlakia beach and an impressive rock outcrop headland.
The road snakes north around the headland to another north facing stone and pebble strip at TSAMBOU or TSABOU, only a short walk from Avlakia. The pretty beach is mostly large white pebbles that are quite difficult to walk on and it is hemmed in between steep cliffs. There is little in the way of shade if you don't have a sun bed, and you will probably need one as the large stones are quite uncomfortable to lie on.
There is easy parking at the back of Tsambou beach and a small taverna. There are regular buses to Avlakia.
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Agios Konstantinos Samos
AGIOS KONSTANTINOS is a pretty coastal village sadly marred by a shoreline esplanade that is a dreary monument to the concrete mixer. The rocky beach is walled in like a D-Day beach and now so ugly that even the locals apologise for it.
However Agios Konstantinos village itself is a delightful mix of attractive stone houses and large tavernas. The village was named after a church, built in 1890 on the long waterfront. There are actually two settlements: Ano Agios Konstantinos(upper) and Kato Agios Konstantinos (lower), about 500m. apart and surrounded by vineyards and orchards. The beach is a very long strip of steeply banked shingle with little shade.
Just to the east of Agios Konstantinos along the coast is the hamlet of PLATANAKIA, which takes it name from the huge plane trees that dominates the main square. Several large tavernas make this a favourite with the organisers of 'Greek Night' tour buses.
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Agios Nikolaos Samos
Just east of Karlovassi is a long stretch of attractive but fairly inaccessible coastline, mostly steep cliffs, but the minor resort of AGIOS NIKOLAOS stands out.
This is a small fishing port recently 'discovered' by upmarket tourist firms and now peppered with new apartments. Agios Nikolaos is still a very attractive coastline with houses dotted around the dramatic headland and a small shingle beach strip to the east. The village has a couple of excellent fish tavernas.
Car hire Boat hire Buses Laundry Tourist officeThe island's second largest town of KARLOVASI or KARLOVASSI is much overshadowed by the other main island resorts of Samos Town and Pythagorio. It is also less obviously attractive, though far more peaceful and a good base for exploring the fine beaches along this part of the coast.
More a cluster of villages than a town, Karlovassi spreads itself both inland and alongt he shore. It can be roughly divided into four parts, each with its own character and some of them dotted with the biggest churches I have ever seen.
The busy Karlovassi waterfront is lined with tavernas and bars and has all the trappings of a rapidly growing resort. The town beach is a poor affair, a couple of shingle strips between long rocky breakwaters.
The new district (Neo Karlovasi) is an untidy mess of derelict factories and warehouses - a hangover from the days when Karlovasi was a major industrial tanning centre. They are worth a look if you are interested in industrial archaeology, otherwise it's best avoided although it has a bustling urban centre of shops, schools, libraries and a medical centre.
The middle district (Meleo Karlovassi) is a sprawling suburb of modern housing, redeemed in part by a fine attractive main square with a huge fountain and some good restaurants perched beneath the shady trees.
The old district (Paleo Karlovassi) is to the west, behind the harbour, and a picture postcard town, topped by a hilltop church, with some attractive old red-tiled houses horseshoed around the end of a lovely green valley.
Potami beach Samos
Potami waterfall Samos
The attractive beach at POTAMI, about 3km the west of Karlovasi is an excellent sweep of pebble and some sand, well shaded by trees, providing welcome shade for several good tavernas, nestling in the shrubbery.
The proximity of the large town of Karlovassi means Potami beach can get crowded in the high season and at weekends. It is easily accessible by car or on foot and a very attractive spot with a couple of attractive rock outcrops to add interest.
Potami is an area well known for rock pools, waterfalls and tour buses. A sequence of bitterly cold pools tumble down the hillside. If you don't mind being frozen, then by all means wade into them - but you have been warned. It is quite a steep 2km climb through the series of waterfalls and there are ropes strung down some of them to haul yourself up.
The track following the pools eventually leads to the 11th century church of Metamorfis believed to be the oldest on Samos and beyond that is a narrow and precipitous path leads to a small Byzantine fortress whose poor condition makes it hardly worth a look but does offer splendid views back down the valley.
Megalos Seitani beach Samos
Mikri Seitani beach Samos
The north-west coastline of Samos is wild, remote and dominated by Mt. Kerkis, the island's highest mountain at 1,473 metres. There is a neat but uninteresting farming village at KALLITHEA and small cove beyond at VARSAMO, signposted from the road down a rough dirt track. The beach has multicoloured pebbles formed from volcanic ash, a couple of small caves and a beach cantina in the summer.
The road runs out at the village of DHRAKEI but tracks lead down to a couple of wild and beautiful beaches on the north facing coast. This area is a refuge for the rare Mediterranean Seal Monachus Monachus, the protection of which has done much to help preserve the area's outstanding natural beauty.
The first of the wild beaches is MEGALO SEITANI which, as the name suggests, is the larger of two. This is also the more dramatic, sitting at the mouth of the Kakoperato Gorge, and the more popular mainly because of its calmer waters.
The next bay hosts MIKRI SEITANI a small sand and pebble cove, windier and more exposed but still protected by rock outcrops. Nearby is the 11th century Byzantine Church of the Transfiguration.
The mountainous Bournias north-south ridge splits the south coast of Samos. To the east of this ridge is the island's most popular holiday resort along the coast at Pythagorio while, to the west, Marathokambos and Votsalakia are emerging as growing holiday destinations. Between the two are no resorts of any note and , though there are many small coves they are all difficult to get to except by boat and are little more than narrow strips of stone and shingle.
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Pythagorio harbour Samos
Remataki beach Samos
Logothetis castle Samos
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Tarted up for middle market tourist tastes PYTHAGORIO or PYTHAGORION is about as Greek as a Sandals' holiday village. Renamed in 1955 to honour its most famous native son Pythagoras it was originally called Tigani, Greek for frying pan. The name almost certainly refers to the shape of the harbour than the summer temperatures, though the south facing port will sizzle in July.
The Pythagorion area owes much of its popularity to the nearby airport, built with an inexcusable lack of foresight, near some of the most valuable archaeological sites. In Pythagorion town centre cobbled streets and walled mansions make up the centre, while the waterfront is an uninterrupted queue of tavernas, bars and cafes, all crammed with tourists paying heavily over the odds.
Despite the crowds, and a twee harbour heaving with fishing boats and leisure craft, Pythagorio still manages a relaxed atmosphere, helping to make it the island's premier resort for the past 30 years. Once a big tobacco growing area it turned to olives but today there are more tourists than trees. Pythagorion is mercifully free of English 'yoof' but bus services are poor and most trips must be made via Samos town.
There is a museum, disappointing given the local archaeological heritage, which has some sculptures, ancient statues, Roman busts and 6th century BC grave reliefs. Unfortunately a large number of finds are routinely hidden way in storerooms so you won't get to see them. A not very imposing 19th century Logothetis castle sits on a hill to the south-west, built mostly with stone pilfered from ancient temple sites.
There is a small pebble beach by Pythagorion harbour, known as REMATAKI beach. It is sheltered and shallow with sunbeds, showers and tavernas nearby. A spread of big hotels is parked well down the beach to the west taking advantage of the huge swathe of shingle and coarse sand that stretches for several kilometres, though the beach is overflown by aircraft as it is very close to the airport behind.
The village of CHORA, to the north, was the capital of Samos until the 1850s and it is still a lively place with plenty of good tavernas. Further north still at the village of MYTILINI is a remarkable palaeontology museum, housed in the village hall and containing fossilised remains of a 10 million year old giraffe-like creature. Other exhibits include the skulls and teeth of prehistoric hippos and lions and what claims to be the fossilised brain of a 13 million year old horse. Not really what you expect to find in a Greek hillside village but there it is.
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Potokaki beach Samos
The beach at Pythagorio stretches west into the distance for as far as the eye can see. About 4km away is the beach area of POTOKAKI where a hefty clutch of holiday hotels hug the shore.
They include the weird Doryssa hotel complex of air conditioned bungalows, all laid out like a fake Greek village, complete with street names and artificial village square. Hardly the authentic Greek experience but holiday hotel types seem to like this sort of thing. The only thing authentic are the prices and the low flying airliners.
Potokaki beach is mainly pebble, with odd scraps of sand here and there. The hotels at the back of Potokaki beach ensure that the best part of the beach are rarely uncrowded and sun beds are laid out in regimented rows over every spare patch of decent sand. If you are the hotel-pool-beach type of tourist Potokaki could well be your cup of tea, though you might prefer the hotel pool to the beach, which is unremittingly long, straight and without character.
Ireon harbour Samos
Papa beach Ireon Samos
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Once a tiny, dust blown fishing hamlet, IREON is now a minor resort with a small gaggle of hotels and tavernas and a somewhat shabby harbour area. Large hotel building is prohibited so this is a quiet spot that begins where the long sands from Potokaki eventually run out.
Ireon beach heads east to Potokaki and is scruffy and stony but does have Blue Flag status. Ireon beach is near the archeological site of Ireon and has several large trees for shade. Access is along paths from the parking area off the main road.
There are a couple of smaller beaches nearer the resort, most notably PAPA BEACH which is a small cove of shingle and stone with a splendid taverna above hidden in the shade of the trees. There are sun beds and showers - even a small changing cubicle. Another cove to the east is just as pleasant but the stone dips steeply into the sea here and it is very rocky underfoot.
A rash of new buildings in Ireon resort have failed to shake off the edge-of-the-world atmosphere at Ireon, though some will find this an attractive relief from the more commercial resorts to the east.
Ireon may be a little off the beaten track but the locals here are especially welcoming and the place has a relaxed feel you can soon get used to, especially if you are looking to escape the busy areas around Pythagorio.
The Ireon area is most noted for the huge archaeological site at nearby Hera Temple (see Highlights) and many visitors to the site fail to follow the road for another 500m or so to discover the delights of the village and beach.
Tsopela beach Samos
West of Ireon the road climbs towards Mt Bournias then drops south through a magnificent gorge to the scenic sand and shingle cove at TSOPELA. A couple of shingle beaches sit east and west either side of a rock headland with a small islet sitting just offshore. A cantina opens and sun beds come out in the summer months.
Tsopela also attracts a good many day trip boats from Pythagorio in the high season. The beach is stone and shingle in a beautiful setting with trees behind for shade.
Inland, the countryside still bears the scars of the forest fires, though every year they lessen and there is still quite a number of hillside villages around here that are worth a visit if you have arrived overland and not by boat.
The large village of PAGONDAS is worth a stop, if only for the astonishing views over the surrounding countryside. It is a traditional village on the slopes of Mt Bournias, with an impressive pubic fountain in the large main square, narrow whitewashed alleys and some good cafes.
MYLI, just north of Ireon, owes it's name to the many watermills that were once here. The mills have gone, but the thick lemon groves and cool streams are still there to enjoy.
Balos beach Samos
West of Tsopela an unmade road winds along the coast beneath the looming Mt Bournias behind. There are a number of small coves along here, most worth a visit with a few homes, the occasional cantina or even taverna and some quiet, out-of-the-way shingle beaches.
There are small coves at Sikia, Pavlou, Avandi and Vergi before you reach the lovely shingle beach at Limnonaki. Beyond there the road climbs inland again and drops back to the shore at Kalogera, Kambos, yet another Psili Amos, Kambos and then the long beach of shingle at BALOS or VALLOS. The coast here is also called ORMOS KOUMEIKON. Its relative remoteness makes it a favourite with naturists.
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Ormos Marathokambos
A few kilometres west are long stretched of sandy beach that are fast emerging as tourist resorts. The first is ORMOS MARATHOKAMBOS, more a working fishing village than a tourist haunt. It is busy but friendly, with a good range of tavernas.
The beach is as stony as it is undistinguished, but it has a relaxing little port and there are some small coves to be found further along the coast if you prefer sand. Above all, it has more of a Greek atmosphere than most of the other resorts along this part of the coast put together. This is a very pleasant place to enjoy a relaxed sunset meal at one of several good tavernas along the shoreline.
Above lies the lovely village of MARATHOKAMBOS, perched among the vineyards and overlooking a steep valley. A word of warning - park your car on the outskirts of the village. The streets are so narrow you will have no option but to reverse your way out.
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Kambos Votsalakia beach
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The island's longest sand beach is found at VOTSALAKIA, also known as KAMBOS at it's eastern end which is a fast growing tourist resort. The beach is of fine, flat sand with a few stones and runs for about 3km.
The straight road that follows the coast closely at the back of the beach has triggered a ribbon development of small hotels and apartments interspersed with tavernas and cafes. Behind is the glorious backdrop of Mt. Kerkis.
The beach is so big it rarely gets crowded. Sun beds are put out by back-of-the-beach tavernas which spring up every now and then. A cluster of tavernas, bars and shops at the western end of the beach give the illusion of a village centre but there is no village here as such.
This is very much a tourist resort and, although the sands are splendid, fine, golden and gently shelving into the sea, Votsalakia has little in the way of atmosphere or character. The hills behind give every reason to go hiking off into the surrounding countryside where there are many fine walks.
Psili Amos beach Samos
Just around the headland west of Votsalakia is a fine beach at PSILI AMMOS, not to be confused with its more popular namesake in the east and another narrow shingle strip near Kalogera (and even more confusingly near yet another beach named Kambos). The beach is approached off the main road down near a taverna.
A steep bank drops down to a cafe and pool hidden in the tees and then to the beach. The east end of the beach is large stones and shingle but this gives way at the western end to a large area of fine sand.
The high cliffs behind offer shelter and seclusion and the sea is quite shallow here so families will enjoy it although it is a steep climb down to the beach and then a long trek over steeply banked stone to get to the sandy area.
Limnionas beach Samos
The road turns inland west beyond Psili Amos and a left turn drops down to the sheltered cove of LIMNIONAS. Smart villas are dotted about the hillsides and the faintly preposterous Samos Yacht Club (given there is hardly ever a yacht to be seen) is based here, giving the place a slightly sniffy upmarket air.
There are sun beds and a taverna, even pedaloes on the stone and shingle beach. A popular spot for day trip boats Limnionas is nevertheless a quiet and unassuming place. Rocks shelves gently down to the shore and into the sea but beyond them the swimming is good.
Ancient ruins
Efplinos Tunnel
The Pythagorio area is also the centre of the island's archaeological heritage - at least what sorry traces of it are left. The place thrived under the rule of the tyrant Polykrates in the latter half of the 6th century BC.
With the aid of a gifted engineer Efplinos and around 4,000 slaves from Lesbos and Naxos, he ordered some astonishing building work. He built 6km of defensive wall, bristling with 35 towers and 12 gates, stretching all the way to Cape Fornias. He also built a huge harbour mole on which the modern jetty still stands. And he drilled a 1km tunnel through the mountain to bring water in and provide a secret escape route out should his walled city, as it was then, come under siege.
Slaves dug from both sides of the mountain to meet bang in the middle, a supreme technical achievement given the primitive tools and lack of scientific equipment at the time. Today, paying visitors are allowed around 100 metres inside to see their handiwork. Unfortunately much of this heritage has been lost over time. It is not unusual to see hotels built in the middle of archaeological ruins and the island airport was built right across one of the most notable archaeological sites in Greece.
Hera Temple ruins
Hera Temple statues
The tyrant Polykrates' greatest work was to the west at the end of a 7km marble-paved Sacred Way said to have been lined with around 2,000 statues from Pythagorio to Ireon. At the Ireon end of the road was a magnificent temple to the mother goddess Hera, supported by 134 columns and believed to rival the Parthenon itself.
Had it survived it would have been a wonder. But the glorious temple has been long lain to waste as fire, invasions, earthquakes, pilfering and out-and-out neglect. Excavation didn't begin until 1985 and the remains are, quite frankly, a sorry site.
Ninety per cent of the Sacred Way is now buried beneath an airport runway, a road and a fine crop of holiday hotels. The remarkable tunnel is collapsing and all that remains of the temple is a single tottering pillar standing in an incoherent maze of scattered rubble.
Nevertheless, the place crawls with visitors and there is plenty see over several acres if broken pillars and scattered ruins are your thing. Nearby are the remains of some Roman baths, said to have been used by Anthony and Cleopatra The baths are a good size but pretty dull with a few unimpressive standing columns and hypocausts.
Samos Kouros
The Archeological Museum in the town of Samos is one of the most important in Greece. Rare archaeological findings on show include the statue of the Kouros (young man), the largest 'kouros' statue in Greece. This sculpture, three times life-size, is carved from a single piece of marble, weighing 4.5 tonnes, though it was in fragments when it was found.
The exhibits are housed in two buildings, the Old Museum, which as built in 1912 and the New Museum which opened in 1987 and contains the sculpture collection. As well as ancient sculptures the exhibits include pottery, bronzes, ivory carvings and clay figurines. Also of note is the marble statue of a draped female figure which date from around 560BC.
Pythagoras
Samos' most famous son Pythagoras didn't actually spend much time on the island. Known today mainly for his geometric theorems he was, during his lifetime, equal parts mathematician, philosopher, magician and mystic Surprisingly, he left absolutely no written records himself and what we know of his teachings comes only from his students, who did.
Pythagoras exerted a profound influence on later Greek philosophers, including Aristotle and Plato and he established a 'Pythagorean' way of life - noted for its vegetarianism, abstinence and the renouncing of all money and wordily goods.
It was a way of life that would endear the Pythagorean sect to the people, and its members were noted for honesty and incorruptibility. It also earned them enemies and Pythagoras was banished and many of his followers executed.
Pythagoras was born on Samos in the 6th century BC, the son of a wealthy sea trader. Highly intelligent, he made the most of the best education that money could buy. But his father died while Pythagoras was still a teenager and soon afterwards the tyrant Polykrates became ruler of the island.
Pythagoras left for Miletus, aged just 18 years, to be taught by the eminent, if ancient, teacher Thales who advised him to visit Egypt, then a major seat of learning. Pythagoras lived more than 20 years in Egypt, studying astronomy and geometry with their priests and sages.
An extraordinary period followed when Egypt was invaded and Pythagoras was carried off to Babylon, supposedly into slavery. Here he mysteriously rose from captive to a disciple of the Persian magi, studying arithmetic, music and divination. No one understands how a captive Greek slave could have risen to such eminence.
He eventually returned to Samos, aged 56, and set up a school. He preferred a meditative way of life and took to living in a cave, but was constantly pestered by the island authorities to help with public and political administration on Samos. Fed up of the intrusions, he gathered his most loyal followers and left for Croton in Italy.
It was here that he expounded a philosophy of simple living and meditative thought. Followers were strictly vegetarian and ascetic. Their numbers swelled to around 600, despite an arduous initiation into the sect, a process which could take many years . The most devoted followers, known as Cenobites, gave up all worldly possessions to the cause and shared everything equally. The sect slowly acquired great wealth and prestige. Pythagoreans were often asked to mediate in disputes, thanks to their reputation for honesty, fairness, thoughtfulness and complete incorruptibility.
Not surprisingly, they also had their enemies, not least those who had tried and failed to gain entry to the order. One such was the rich and powerful Cyclon of Croton who campaigned forcefully against the sect and eventually forced Pythagoras to flee to Metapontum, where he later died. His leaderless followers were pursued by their enemies and locked in a house which was burnt to the ground, leaving just two survivors.
Pythagoras is credited with a string of firsts - the first to describe higher geometric solids, the first to discover the relationship between the squares on a triangle's sides (the Pythagorean Theorem) and the first to map musical intervals. His number theories shaped much of the Kabbalah of the Jews and his mystical numbers are found in magic practices of the Renaissance.
Many regard him as the father of such wide-ranging disciplines as numerology, geometry, musical theory and psychotherapy. He was also said to be able to predict earthquakes, to talk with animals and to practise hypnosis. All this, and Pythagoras left not a single book behind.
Samos is the eighth biggest Greek island and is found in the north Aegean only about 1.5km from the Turkish coast. The prefecture of Samos also includes the islands of Ikaria and Fourni and it has a population of around 35,000. Samos is noted for its wine, olive oil, vegetables, fruit, citrus fruits, honey, ceramics and fish. Catastrophic fires swept through much inland forest in 1993 but vegetation has now returned.
Samos has an area of about 475sq km and a coastline of 159km. Tree ferry ports are at Samos Town, Karlovassi and Pythagorio. The island airport is 14km southwest of Samos Town and 3km west of Pythagorio. Samos has the highest mountains in the Aegean with the highest peaks at Vigla rising to 1450 metres. Small plains and valleys lie between the mountains full of olive and citrus groves, There are many vineyards on the slopes of the hills and the island wines are famous.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | |
| 12 | 13 | 15 | 19 | 24 | 29 | 31 | 31 | 28 | 22 | 18 | 14 | Avg day °C |
| 5 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 13 | 17 | 20 | 20 | 17 | 13 | 10 | 7 | Avg night °C |
| 5 | 6 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 8 | 6 | 5 | Sun (hrs) |
| 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 3 | 2 | UV Index |
| 159 | 109 | 88 | 42 | 28 | 6 | 0 | 0 | 18 | 42 | 103 | 167 | Avg rain (mm) |
| 12 | 11 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 6 | 8 | 13 | Days with rain |
UV: >3 Low; 3-5 Moderate; 5-8 High; <8 Very high | Rainy days 1mm+ | 1 inch=25.4 mm
Samos is located in the Aegean Sea and enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate. Temperatures rise in April and reach a pleasant 20C in May. This is probably the best time to visit Samos, when the flowers are in bloom and there are fewer crowds. In June temperatures rise sharply. Rainfall in summer is very rare, with the sun shining for about 11 hours a day though sunny dots are tempered by the cool 'Meltemi' winds that blow from the north. These winds blow throughout the year on Samos but are at their strongest in summer. Samos also has plenty of winter rainfall, starting in October, that helps to keep much of the island green. December and January bring the most rainfall, while during the summertime, rain is irregular with showers often only lasting a few minutes.
The beautiful Greek Islands are renowned for their spectacular scenery, magnificent mountainous backdrops, stunning sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Holidays to the Greek Islands are often most cherished for this combination of sunshine, warm waters and beaches set against truly wonderful scenery. Whether it is a traditional beach holiday you would like or something with a little more history, you'll find that a break away to the Greek Islands is just the answer!
Cheap flights to Samos from European airports
Most European languages and currencies
Samos International Airport (SMI) or Aristarchos Airport is about 3km outside Pythagorio and 10km from the capital in the south of the island.
The international airport was opened in 1960 and upgraded in 2003. Services are generally good with taxis and buses available, although there is no dedicated airport shuttle bus.
Olympic Airways have three flights daily (five in summer) from Athens. Flight time from Athens is about 45 minutes. There are twice weekly flights to Thessaloniki and Air Manos flies to Athens, Thessaloniki and the islands of Mykonos and Santorini.
Thereis a regular daily bus service operated by KTEL, Samos Town – Pythagorion – Airport – Ireon and back five times a day.
Taxis are available to various resorts and displayed on placards. In the high season it's best to book in advance to the airport. There is short-term and long-term car parking.
Samos has good daily ferry connections. The main port of Samos is at Vathi (Samos Town) with other ports at Karlovassi in the northwest and Pythagorio in the south. Ferries from Piraeus (Athens) and the Cyclades island usually call at Karlovassi and Vathi. Ferry services from these two ports go to the neighbouring islands of Patmos, Lipsi, Leros, Kalymnos and Kos. There are also regular links from Paros and Naxos via Ikaria, Fourni and Samos by GA Ferries. Samos Ships run services to nearby islands almost daily and both Kallisti Ferries and Hellenic Seaways have routes to Syros and Ikaria.
Hydrofoils to the Dodecanese islands depart regularly from Vathi and Pithagorio. The Nissos Kalymnos sails from Pythagorio to Agathonissi, Arki, Patmos, Leros and also from Lipsi to Kalymnos. Aegean Flying Dolphins runs fast services from Pythagorio to Patmos, Lipsi, Leros, Kalymnos and Kos. There are further ferry links to Rhodes and Symi and north to Chios, Lesvos, Limnos and the mainland at Thessaloniki, Alexandroupoli and Kavala.
Samos is on the main North Aegean and Dodecanese routes from Alexandroupoli to Rhodes. Also Samos has daily ferries to Kousadasi in Turkey for visitors who want to see the ancient monuments of Ephesus.
If you rent a car or bike you will find the main roads in good repair, but this is a big island and cross island journeys over the mountains can be tiring. There are fairly good bus services between the main resorts. KTEL runs excellent services on the Pythagorio - Samos Town routes and the Samos Town - Kokkari - Karlovassi routes, but for smaller resorts services can be infrequent and not particularly geared for tourists. You can find details of KTEL services here samos-online.com
There is good walking to be found on Samos, particularly in the north of the island. The island has an extensive network of cobbled mule tracks (kalderimia), particularly in the hills behind Kokkari. Hikers will find plenty of shade.
The Vourliotes area is also noted for its walks and the spectacular scenery across the area's vineyards. Take the uphill road to Moni Vrondrias from the village car park and follow the path to Manolates.
Marengo Books have several excellent walking guides and walking maps of Samos. And, of course, there is Foxy's excellent website on walks in Samos (see link below).
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Photos of Samos by JEREMY KELL
Photos of Samos by CHRISTINE MANDER
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