HYDRA or YDRA lies between the Saronic and Argolis Gulf and is nearly 37 nautical miles south from Athens' main port of Piraeus.
Hydra is a long, thin island with an area of about 56km2 and a shoreline of around 55km. It is characterised by rocky hillsides and the interior is virtually uninhabited except for the odd farmhouse and a few remote monasteries.
Hydra has no notable beaches and most of the permanent population of 3,000 lives in the main town, also known as Hydra. Hydra, pronounced 'eedra', was 'discovered' in the late 1950s by artists such as the Canadian beat poet and singer Leonard Cohen, thus gaining a worldwide reputation as an artist colony.
Today Hydra still attracts artists and writers, though the island is much more heavily dependent on tourism. Well-heeled Athenians now make up a large proportion of its regular visitors.
The architecture of Hydra is exceptional among the Greek islands. During the 18th and 19th century the island was the base for a huge commercial fleet. Wealthy merchants and ship owners built beautiful Venetian-style mansions.
Many of the Hydra island mansions have been faithfully restored. Most of the houses are built from grey Hydra stone, tall and narrow with brightly coloured doors and window shutters.
Beaches are few and poor on Hydra and a major negative point for tourists. The main bathing areas in Hydra port are around the rocky coastline. The few places that qualify as beaches are mostly rock and pebble, and crowded.
Hydra is more a getaway weekend retreat for wealthy Greek mainlanders than a draw for foreign visitors but, if you are looking for a quiet retreat, this could be just the island for you.
Hydra
HYDRA TOWN consists of a crescent-shaped harbour, fringed by tavernas, cafes, boutique shops and mini-markets.
The harbour is often packed with scores of yachts and other sailing craft in the summer and the tavernas and cafes around it are packed with people.
Steep stone streets that lead up and out from the Hydra Town harbour area are lined with stout grey houses, some impressive mansions and most of them are topped with red tiled roofs.
Such impressive mansions are not seen in such abundance on any other Greek island. Hydra Town was once populated by wealthy merchants and shipbuilders and they built themselves some luxurious homes in the 18th and 19th century.
Most homes are tall and narrow, a consequence of being built on steeply rising land, and many have been restored by rich Athenians who have opted for bright colours on shutters, doors and some walls.
The most populated Hydra Town area is Kiafa which sites high above the port and is the oldest residential area offering good views over the bay. Arched bridges cross some steep streets to connect the houses. Stone built windmills at the summite complete the scene along with some notable churches in Hydra Town itself.
The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin stands out. It sits in the centre of Hydra Town, with its magnificent three-storey bell tower of marble from Tinos. It was founded in 1643 as a monastery but only the church is left.
Some old monk cells house the municipal offices and a small ecclesiastical museum. The Kountouriotis museum, behind the church is also worth a visit.
Housed in a former mansion house it has many exhibits from 19th century and examples of Hydra's maritime heritage.
Spilia
SPILIA is an area of rock just west of the main harbour at Hydra port. The grey rock has been blasted with dynamite and covered with swathes of cement to form decking where tables and loungers can be positioned over the sea.
The water at Spilia is clear and a deep blue colour, ideal for diving and swimming, though it's a lot easier getting in than out.
Next to Spilia is a deck of rock and stone called Hydroneta which lies below the cannons on the walls above the rocks.
The beach bar hangs over the rocks and, with tables set out of the cliff face, this is a popular place for visitors, although the continuous all-day music can be annoying if its peace you are looking for.
There are magnificent views over the sea and the surrounding islands and Spilia is pleasant beach to admire a romantic sunset, assuming you don't mind the bleating pop music, although it does tend to turn to romantic classical at sunset.
Alavlaki
ALAVLAKI is a fairly inhospitable strip of shingle next to a cement shelf at the bottom of a very steep cliff just beyond Spilia.
There are steps to get down to Alavlaki but they are so steep you feel as though you are descending a ladder and you need to be fit to get back up. You are likely to get Alavlaki to yourself for long periods as not many will bother to brave the climb.
Alavlaki is also quite difficult to find. The steps are opposite an abandoned building after a couple of bends on the road to Kamini out of Hydra port.
Alavlaki beach also falls away very sharply under the sea so it's not a beach that is at all suitable for families with young children.
Kamini harbour and beach
Above Hydra port is an area known as the “Four Corners” with houses on each side of a small square. Homes here tend to be cheaper as there is no sea view but this is where Canadian poet/singer Leonard Cohen has a home.
You can take the steep, stepped route through here to the small picturesque fishing port of KAMINI or you can take the slightly longer coast road. Either way it only about 15mins walk from Hydra, although there are regular water taxis for those feeling lazy.
Kamini is a peaceful fishing village with a picturesque port, a school, a few mini-markets and several tavernas. Whitewashed houses with their red-tiled roofs crawl back up the Kamini hillside. A large red and ochre building in the Kamini village centre is used for art exhibitions and festivals.
There are two beaches. Megalo Kamini (Big Kamini) is the bigger but the least popular. The other is Mikro Kamini (Small Kamini), which is a beautiful little pebble beach popular with families because of the shallow water and ease of access.
There are some sunbeds at Kamini and watersports. A large fortress-like structure towers over the back of the beach. This is a former arsenal, used for storing powder and shot in the 19th century. As a safety precaution the munitions were stored well away from the fleet that used to anchor in neighbouring Hydra.
Vlihos Beach
West from Kamini the road leads to VLYCHOS, or VLIHOS, a pretty beach with a small jetty where taxi boats from Hydra can tie up. You can walk from Hydra but the journey will take you about 40min.
Vlychos has a large grey sand and pebble beach with clear water, a taverna and a small cantina offering basic menus. There are sun loungers and umbrellas for hire and the Vlychos beach shelves gently into the sea making it popular with families.
Beyond the Marina Taverna at Vlychos beach are small rocky coves for those seeking greater privacy.
Behind the beach, white houses tumble down the hillside. Many of these are holiday homes and most are built close to the sea to get the best views, at the same time spoiling the views from Vlychos village. Nearby is the tiny chapel of Agios Xaralampos.
Molos Beach
MOLOS is one of the less developed beaches on Hydra as access to it is difficult on both land and sea. The coast road that runs from Vlichos peters out well before Molos beach and access is down a rough track through pine woods.
Much of the back of Molos beach has been fenced off by local landowners so it's not particularly easy to find your way nor particularly inviting when you get there.
The Molos waters are also so shallow that caiques will rarely pull in here to drop off their visitors. This keeps the Molos beach feeling very isolated.
Nevertheless, those that prefer peace and unspoiled surroundings will hire a water taxi to ferry them to Molos beach for the day. Visitors must also take their own provision as there are no facilities.
Bisti Beach
The beach at BISTI is at the western tip of Hydra in a deep south-west facing bay and is reached by taxi boat. Bisti is in a very beautiful setting and caiques sail fairly regularly from Hydra port.
Pine trees coat the hillside right down to the shore where there is a small pebble beach with steep tree-clad rocks on either side. There is a summer cantina on Bisti beach and sun loungers along the shore of white pebbles.
The shallow water and white stones turn the sea a stunning emerald and aquamarine and there are some flat topped rocks along the shore at Bisti for added interest.
The trees offer plenty of shade and there are fine walks through the surrounding countryside. The small bays on either side of Bisti beach offer ideal snorkeling or swimming, but watch out for sea urchins.
Agios Nikolaos Beach
Just beyond Bisti is another small beach in a cove called AGIOS NIKOLAOS and accessible by water taxi or your own boat.
Agios Nikolaos is one of the largest bays on Hydra and is a favourite port of call for caiques from Hydra port, although the boat journey takes nearly 60min.
The other drawback tp Agios Nikolaos is the relative lack of shade, although there are sunbeds and umbrellas for hire. There is a small cantina in the summer to offer basics but there are no facilities at Agios Nikolaos out of season.
Be sure to arrange a boat pick up from Agios Nikolaos as well or you'll face a tough hike back over the mountain.
Limnioniza beach
LIMNIONIZA is the only beach on the south side of Hydra and is reached either by boat or on foot from Hydra port across the backbone ridge of the island.
Limnioniza is a long cove of white and grey pebble, with shallow clear water. There is not a great deal of natural shade but sun loungers and umbrellas are for hire.
A cantina opens at the back of Limnioniza beach for the summer and there are a watersports of offer, including water skiing and kayaking.
A small offshore islet adds interest. There are good walks to be hand behind Limnioniza beach with some well marked footpaths. Caiques run regularly during the summer and the trip takes about 30min.
Mandraki beaches
The beach at MANDRAKI is about 2km east from the main port at Hydra along a wide and level coast road which is slowly being lined with new villas.
The walk takes about 30min and there is little shade to be had so it's not particularly pleasant in the summer or in the heat of the day. Footpaths branch off the main road and lead up to the remote monasteries perched on the surrounding hills.
There are taxi boats that take about 5min to get to Mandraki and a hotel boat that makes regular trips throughout the day.
The bay of Mandraki itself is backed by steep rugged hills, dotted with a few pine trees and lots more scrub. It is made up of two beach areas.
One beach lies in a small sheltered cove below a taverna and is mostly pebble and rock. There are sun loungers and some shade from trees. With water taxis regularly pulling in to dock at the small jetty it can be unsafe to swim and bathers should take care.
Further round the bay is a larger sandy area that had been purloined by the Miramare Hotel that overlooks it. Here Mandraki beach is a gritty sharp sand and is usually quite busy. It has the usual facilities - sunbeds and loungers and watersports for the more active.
The stone jetty creates a large shallow area of water that is popular with families. The hotel also welcomes Mandraki beach users who want to enjoy the hotel facilities which include a restaurant, games room and volleyball court.
There is also a beach bar for those that enjoy all-day music.
Hydra lies between the Saronic and the Argolic Gulf and is part of the group of island called Argo-Saronic along with Aegina, Poros and Spetses. It found off the southern shore of the Peloponnese. The terrain is rocky and mountainous, the highest peak being Mount Klimaki at 600m. It was once dense with forest but the trees were destroyed by fire and the island is now virtually barren. It has no natural springs and water is imported by tanker. Hydra is an elongated island with an area of 50km2 and a coastline of 56km. he population is about 2,500 concentrated around Hydra Town, with tourism and fishing the main industries.
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There is no airport on Hydra. The nearest airport is at Athens International (ATH) where there is a helicopter service to Hydra. The flight takes about 20mins but in poor weather the helicopter lands at Porto Heli on the Peloponnese mainland where there are water taxis. Arriving in such style costs an arm and a leg of course but some enjoy wearing their wealth on their sleeves. Others catch a ferry from Piraeus.
The E96 airport shuttle bus goes to the port at Piraeus. There is a 24hr service. You can find it outside the Arrivals hall. The small ticket office is next to the bus stop.
The E96 leaves every 15-20min during the day, every 30min at night. It stops several times on the way. Piraeus is the final stop and the journey takes 45-60min depending on traffic.
The taxi rank is next to Door 3, outside the arrivals hall. The price for Piraeus is 25 - 30euros, more at night and journey time depends on traffic but can be anything from 30-50min.
Hydra lies between the Saronic Gulf and Argolis Gulf about 37 nautical miles from Piraeus. It's a 3hr trip by ferry, about and 90min on the hydrofoil. There are regular daily ferries from Piraeus and from Nafplion, on the nearby Peloponnese coast. Most visitors fly to Athens and catch the #E96 Express bus to Piraeus which take about 90mins. At Piraeus hydrofoils leave at regular intervals from 8am. There are also ferries to Posors and Spetses.
Water taxis line the jetty in the main port and most owners have mobile phones so they can be contacted any time. There is no official tariff but owners have agreed set prices and there is a central phone 0298 53690 answered by the first boat owner available. Most water buses can take up to 10 people and you can cut costs by teaming up with neighbours to take a boat at the same time.
Caiques also go to various beaches around the island. Boards on the jetty announce prices and times of sailing. The problem is that you sometimes have to wait a long time until the boat is full enough for the captain to think it worth sailing. Caiques also go to offshore islets of Dokos, Kivotos, and Petasi, as well as to secluded restaurants in the evening.
There are no vehicles allowed on Hydra except dust carts which ferry island rubbish to the ever smouldering rubbish tip. As cars are banned most transport is by donkey or water taxi. Donkeys and mules are stationed at the main port to cater for new boat arrivals. Visitors haggle a price to take donkey loads of luggage to their hotels and villas. A single donkey can take two large suitcases and a couple of bags. You can also ride a donkey yourself, though most people walk. You can even hire a donkey to take your provisions to your accommodation; not a bad idea if you have bought several bottles of beer, wine and mineral water and don't fancy carrying it up the hillside yourself.
Hydra is ideal walking country, though you need strong legs to tackle the steep donkey trails and you will need some protection from the prickly gorse bushes. Summer is too hot for cross-island walks (Hydra has a reputation for being one of the hottest Greek islands) which are best made in spring and autumn. If you do go hiking in the summer start out before dawn to be back before noon.
There are three main hiking routes across Hydra but poor signposting and forking footpaths can make them difficult to follow. It takes about 7hrs to hike from the main port at Hydra to the east and west coasts. Remember to take bottled water. There are wells (pigadia) dotted about, but the water is brackish and not fit for drinking.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | |
| 12 | 13 | 15 | 19 | 24 | 29 | 31 | 31 | 28 | 22 | 18 | 14 | Avg day °C |
| 5 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 13 | 17 | 20 | 20 | 17 | 13 | 10 | 7 | Avg night °C |
| 4 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 12 | 10 | 7 | 5 | 4 | Sun (hrs) |
| 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 3 | 2 | UV Index |
| 82 | 66 | 57 | 36 | 21 | 11 | 3 | 3 | 14 | 61 | 84 | 104 | Rainfall(mm) |
| 12 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 | Rainy days |
UV: >3 Low; 3-5 Moderate; 5-8 High; <8 Very high | Rainy days 1mm+ | 1 inch=25.4 mm
South of the sheltered Argo Saronic gulf Hydra enjoys a warmer climate than Athens or the other Saronic islands. Winters are relatively dry and the summers are virtually cloudless from June to August. May and September have a higher chance of rain and cooler nights.
The beautiful Greek Islands are renowned for their spectacular scenery, magnificent mountainous backdrops, stunning sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Holidays to the Greek Islands are often most cherished for this combination of sunshine, warm waters and beaches set against truly wonderful scenery. Whether it is a traditional beach holiday you would like or something with a little more history, you'll find that a break away to the Greek Islands is just the answer!
Free pamphlets Holidays in Hydra and This Summer in Hydra are widely available with information, maps and lists of rooms to rent
Hydra has a variety of local customs and festivals. Easter services are held outdoors by candlelight and on Good Friday and Saturday local customs include immersing the Epitaph in the sea. There is dancing during the day an fireworks at night. Most important is Miaoulia on the weekend closest to June 21 to honour Admiral Miaoulis, an important figure from the Greek Revolution in 1821. The festival lasts three days and is part of "Navy Week". There is folk dancing and sports and it closes with a fireworks display to represent the burning of the Turkish flagship. Each July there is an International Festival of Puppets with free puppet plays. There are many art exhibitions and music concerts and carnivals over the summer. On November 14 is a festival to celebrate the martyr Agios Konstantinos of Hydra.
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