Ios Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Ios

VISITORS RECOMMEND

Best eating:

Lord Byron, Vesuvio

Best drinking:

Aftershock, Planet Ios

Best clubbing:

Astra, Barmacy, Mojo

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Chora Ios

CHORA is the only town on Ios. By day it is a dormant village of white cube houses stacked up the hillside, dotted with the blue domes of churches and capped by a dozen decaying windmills.

By night, and especially after midnight, it transmutes into a frenzy of drinking, partying and vomiting as competing discos and bars out-decibel each other with techno-pop, heavy metal, punk, rock and even jazz.

The town centre is now little more than a rash of bars and clubs wrapped around the main square. The bars are very small but together they must total more than 100.

Most offer cheap booze while some offer a free condom with every cocktail. If the booze is cheap, so is the quality. The local drinks known as 'bombas' are reputedly spiked with home-made alcohol.

For headbangers you first don a helmet, take a shot then the barman hits you on the head with a hammer - so stylish. But quantity is the only requirement in this town and all-night drinking was the norm until the locals could stand no more and forced bars to close at 3 am, on weekdays at least.

The early morning closure usually prompts a stampede to out-of-town dance clubs on the cliffs. Predictably, food is unlikely to be at the top of your list if all you want to do is party - you just need something to soak up the alcohol - and taverna menus are seriously unimpressive. The best you can do is queue for a greasy gyros or burger.

For those out and about in the daytime there is the main church of Panagia Gremiotissa with its beautiful icons, easily recognised by the palm tree outside. The narrow streets make it inaccessible to vehicles.

The windmills are a reminder of former days though now only tarted up for tourists and the ruins of a medieval castle sits on the hilltop with an archaeology museum and art galleries on the ground floor.

There is the Archaeological Museum of Ios, housed in a yellow neoclassical building with displays of ceramics, Roman artifacts, prehistoric tools and Cycladic figurines. It opens 8am to 2pm Tuesday to Sunday.

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Yialos Ios

Below the Chora is the port area of ORMOS, YIALOS or GIALOS, one of the biggest natural harbours in the Aegean and the first glimpse most visitors get of the island.

The main plaza is packed with shops and travel agents while the promenade is thick with tavernas and cafes as well as gift shops. There is a small fishing boat quay at the end of the marina where the men still mend their nets on the quayside.

To the south is the 17th century chapel of Agia Irini with its double set of altars. The long sandy beach of Yialos is to the right of the port and there are yet more restaurants, bars and cafes.

The beach is long and sandy with sun beds and water sports. It is a good alternative to the more crowded Mylopotas which is on the other side of the headland below Chora and where most of the youngsters hang out.

Various walking trails start at Yialos. Paths from here lead here to remote sandy beaches at Kolitsani, the hill village of Kambos and beyond that, at Skarkos, are various ruins of archaeological interest.

An old stone flagged path leads up to Chora past the domed church of Agios Giorgios hacked into the cliff. The path may be steep but there is pleasant shade from overhanging eucalyptus and drinking fountains along the way.

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Koumbara Ios

On the headland south of Yialos is KOUMBARA or KOUBARA, an area of small coves and sandy beaches. The main beach is long (about 300m) and sandy with beach tavernas and room nearby.

But its main attraction are the clutch of small and delightful sandy coves to be explored on foot around the headland. The odd outcrop of rock also makes this an ideal place for snorkeling and the many secluded coves make it a favourite with naturists.

It is walkable from Yialos (about 30mins) but there is a regular bus on the hour that takes about 5mins.

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Mylopotas Ios

MILOPOTAS or MYLOPOTAS is the main beach for Chora has a 1km crescent of wide, golden sand that is said to rival any in the Mediterranean - if you can find somewhere to enjoy it.

In season it heaves with tan-oiled bodies during the day while its all-night beach parties are infamous. Non-stop beach music is broadcast load and clear all day for the benefit of young revellers warming up for a frantic night's drinking.

A cluster of upmarket hotels has sprouted up at the head of the beach and there are two campsites for backpackers. The bay is awash with cafes, bars and restaurants which are open day and night, there are watersports galore and all the usual sun beds and parasols.

A beach campsite is a resort in itself with a 24-hour bar, two swimming pools, restaurant and head-throbbing loudspeakers. But at least the beach is long enough to escape the worst of the racket.

Farm tracks take you to the quieter southern end where naturism is in favour. There is a pleasant beach at KOLITSANI, mid-way between Chora and Mylopotas, accessible by a path, if you want to escape the crowds.

Buses leave Chora every 15 min or so but it is only a 20 min walk anyway, so by the time you have waited for the next bus you can be there.

Plakato Ios

The first beach of any note north of Yialos is found at PLAKATO or PLAKATOS, more northwest than north and about 13km from Yialos. It sits at the northern tip of the island beneath PANO KAMBOS, the reputed site of Homer's Tomb.

The asphalt runs out after the village of Vouni and a dirt track branches left to Plakato and right to ancient ruins, where tradition has it that the poet is buried.

One tale has it that Homer's mother, Clymene was from Ios, another that he was killed after failing to answer a local riddle.

Anyway, the original graveyard has long since slipped down the earthquake-prone cliff and what remains is said to be Byzantine anyway so a trip here requires good footwear and a good imagination.

Nevertheless the islanders are very proud of the connection and on May 15 each year they hold a festival - Homeria - when and a flame is carried from the port to his tomb.

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Agia Theodoti Ios

The huge sandy beach at AGIA THEODOTI is about 12km from Yialos, set in a sheltered bay facing east for those early enough to catch a breathtaking sunrise over the islet of Ikaklia in the bay.

Local tavernas serve basic but delicious food and there are many rooms to let in the area. A favoured haunt of wealthy Athenians this has helped push up local prices so don't expect a cheap meal.

Sand shelves gently into the sea which is usually limpidly calm. Nearby is the 16th century church of Ag. Theodoti, the oldest on the island, that gives the bay its name.

A celebration is held here on September 8 each year to mark a famous victory by Ios islanders over the marauding pirates that once frequented these seas.

The resort is also overlooked by the ruins of the 15th century Venetian fortress of PALIOKASTRO. It was built in 1400 by the Venetian Duke Marco Crispi and the remains of the old Venetian town can still be seen inside.

Surfing

Psathi Ios

A new road has opened up the course sand beach at PSATHI which was once the domain of egg-laying loggerhead turtles but increasingly seems the main destination of mating windsurfers.

The resort is reached through a lovely green and fertile valley of olive and citrus groves (in spring at least, the landscape is far less attractive in the summer), about 20km from Yialos.

Flat wide sands are backed by a few tavernas and apartments. Doubtless a beautiful spot, but the sand is quite coarse underfoot and the beach is north facing so it can collect a fair amount of rubbish in the prevailing winds.

The sand can shelve pretty steeply into the sea in places so care must be taken and there are no sun beds or other facilities.

On windy days the sea swells can attract scores of windsurfers to the bay. To get there follow the signs from Agia Theodoti.

Kalamos Ios

A long sand and pebble beach at KALAMOS on the eastern coast, about 16km from Yialos, is said to offer a good alternative to those who tire of the increasingly popular Manganari to the south.

The area around the long and beautiful beach is a nature reserve and, being relatively remote and off the tour bus route, a peaceful haven that you are likely to enjoy with few other visitors.

There are enough visitors to support a beach cantina that supplies sun beds and umbrellas. Waters are clear and with outlying rocks to give good snorkeling.

If you prefer even fewer crowds there are even more remote beaches both north and south within easy walking distance. North lies a small cove at PLAKES and to the south, just over the headland, is the hidden cove of PAPA.

Further south still TRIS ELIKES, a trio of beautiful secluded beaches, accessible only on foot.

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Manganari Ios

One of the most romantic areas of Ios, MANGANARI sits on the southeast coast about 23 km from Yialos.

It is actually four beautiful white sand beaches necklaced along a coast of crystal clear water. There are beach tavernas, bars, cafes and water sports though to spoil the peace.

It is now a very popular day out for trippers on the regular bus excursions. Then again it is still big enough to find peace and quiet if you are prepared to do a spot of walking. The secluded bays make the place attractive for naturists.

Tavernas were noted for their fresh fish menus but are now turning to more profitable burgers for the visiting hordes of youngsters that turn out of the coaches on a break from partying in Mylopotas.

Too get there by car drive through Mylopotas and take the hill road turning right before Kalamos monastery. Bus excursions can be booked in all travel agencies and buses leave from Yialos, Chora and Mylopotas, returning in the afternoon.

You can also catch a water taxi from Yialos - quick but expensive