IOS sits in the southern part of the central Cyclades group, just south of the Greek islands of Naxos and Paros. Once the party capital of the Med, the glory days of Ios have faded as the island lost out to more nakedly aggressive party resorts as Faliraki, on Rhodes, and Ayia Napa, on Cyprus.
Nevertheless, Ios remains a major hedonist outpost where sun, sex and sin await the youngsters who have been sailing in for decades to wallow in the annual beach bar binge.
Once neck and neck with Faliraki for the Greek islands' party vomit title, Ios is considerably tamer today. Ios islanders have worked hard to cast off a loutish reputation. So brassed off were the locals with booze-sodden behaviour they imposed a 3am weekday shutdown on noisy nightclubs.
Some dub Ios a party island and nothing else but beyond the booze happy capital there lies a classic Greek island with some simply wonderful beaches and timeless villages. If you are not the party type then avoid the capital and head north or west for peace and tranquillity on some of the best Greek island beaches you will ever come across.
Party mayhem is almost totally confined to the Ios capital town and of Chora it's neighbouring beach. Those who prefer a more traditional Greek island will find it just about everywhere else.
Sober Ios visitors are well insulated from noisy partygoers by staying in upmarket island resorts, but the accommodation tends to be swanky, and is priced accordingly.
The best way for more sedate holidaymakers to avoid the teenage hordes is to arrive on the fringes of the Ios season, before the boys and girls hit town or well after they have gone.
Head to the east coast for the best of the Ios beaches: beautiful, wild and, if you crave a little peace and solitude, big enough to outmanoeuvre the regular bus loads of day trippers.
In addition to the notorious nightlife, Ios can boast beaches that are the envy of many. Ios regularly pick up best beaches in Europe awards and boasts 75km of sandy beaches although few are developed as tourist beaches. Mylopotas beach is the busiest and the noisiest; a party beach crammed with music bars and fast food cafes and blasted by loud music. Away from Mylopotas, it is a different story - beautiful, unspoilt beaches are the norm, with Manganari in the south-east considered the best and the official nudist beach of Koumbara, to the west of Chora, a close second. The remaining Ios beaches are strung along the north and east coasts and tend to be quiet and relaxed. Ios island travel agents will arrange transport to more remote stretches of sand and offer sailing trips around Ios and to nearby islets.
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CHORA is the only town on Ios. By day it is a dormant village of white cube houses stacked up the hillside, dotted with the blue domes of churches and capped by a dozen decaying windmills.
By night, and especially after midnight, Chora transmutes into a frenzy of drinking, partying and vomiting as competing discos and bars out-decibel each other with techno-pop, heavy metal, punk, rock and even jazz.
The Chora centre is now little more than a rash of bars and clubs wrapped around the main square. The bars are very small but together they must total more than 100.
Most offer cheap booze while some offer a free condom with every cocktail. If the booze is cheap, so is the quality. Local drinks known as 'bombas' are reputedly spiked with home-made alcohol. For 'headbangers' the drinker dons a helmet and is clouted with a hammer - stylish then.
All-night drinking was the norm until the locals could stand no more and forced bars to close at 3 am, on weekdays at least, prompting a early-morning stampede to out-of-town dance clubs located on the cliffs.
Predictably, food is not top of any partygoers' list - just something to soak up the alcohol - and Chora taverna menus are seriously unimpressive. The best you can do is queue for a greasy gyros or burger.
The narrow Chora streets make the town inaccessible to vehicles and for those out and about in the daytime there is plenty to enjoy.
The main church of Panagia Gremiotissa with its beautiful icons, easily recognised by the palm tree outside while the Chora windmills, a dozen of them, now tarted up for the tourists, are a reminder of former days. The ruins of a medieval castle sits on the hilltop as well as the chapel of Agios Nikolaos (one of 400 or so on Ios) and under the castle is Panagia Gremiotissa (Our Lady of the Cliffs), built when Turks occupied Ios.
The Archaeological Museum of Ios is housed in a yellow neoclassical mansion with displays of ceramics, Roman artifacts, prehistoric tools and Cycladic figurines. It opens 8am to 2pm, except Monday.
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Below the Chora is the port area of ORMOS, YIALOS or GIALOS, one of the biggest natural harbours in the Aegean and the first glimpse most visitors get of the island.
The main Yialos plaza is packed with shops and travel agents while the promenade is thick with tavernas and cafes as well as gift shops. There is a small fishing boat quay at the end of the marina where the men still mend their nets on the quayside.
To the south is the 17th century chapel of Agia Irini with its double set of altars. The long sandy beach of Yialos is to the right of the port and there are yet more restaurants, bars and cafes.
The beach is long and sandy with sunbeds and water sports. It is a good alternative to the more crowded Mylopotas which is on the other side of the headland below Chora and where most of the youngsters hang out.
Various walking trails start at Yialos. Paths from here lead here to remote sandy beaches at Kolitsani, the hill village of Kambos and beyond that, at Skarkos, are various ruins of archaeological interest.
An old stone flagged path leads up to Chora past the domed church of Agios Giorgios hacked into the cliff. The path may be steep but there is pleasant shade from overhanging eucalyptus and drinking fountains along the way.
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On the headland south of Yialos is KOUMBARA or KOUBARA, an area of small coves and sandy beaches. The main beach is long (about 300m) and sandy with beach tavernas and room nearby.
But Koumbara's main attraction are the clutch of small and delightful sandy coves to be explored on foot around the headland. The odd outcrop of rock also makes this an ideal place for snorkeling and the many secluded coves make it a favourite with naturists.
Koumbara is walkable from Yialos (about 30 minutes) but there is a regular bus on the hour that takes about 5 minutes.
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MILOPOTAS or MYLOPOTAS is the main beach for Chora has a 1km crescent of wide, golden sand that is said to rival any in the Mediterranean - if you can find somewhere to enjoy it.
In season Mylopotas heaves with tan-oiled bodies during the day, while its all-night beach parties are infamous. Non-stop beach music is broadcast loud and clear all day for the benefit of young revellers warming up for a frantic night's drinking.
A cluster of upmarket hotels has sprouted up at the head of Mylopotas beach and there are two large campsites for backpackers. Mylopotas bay is awash with cafes, bars and restaurants which are open day and night, there are watersports galore and all the usual sunbeds and parasols.
Beach camp sites at Mylopotas are mini-resorts in themselves with 24-hour bars, swimming pools, restaurant and head-throbbing loudspeakers. But at least Mylopotas beach is long enough to escape the worst of the noise.
Farm tracks take you to the quieter southern end where unofficial naturism is in favour. There is a pleasant beach at KOLITSANI, mid-way between Chora and Mylopotas, accessible by a path, if you want to escape the worst of the crowds.
Buses leave Chora every 15 minutes or so but it is only a 20 minutes walk anyway so by the time you have waited for the next crowded bus you can be there on foot.
The north coast of Ios has a number of attractive beaches but they are all widely separated. Many more coves can be found in sheltered bays and are quite remote, without facilities, so they tend to be very quiet. The most neautiful of them all is Manganari, now a major target of day trip coaches, although it is big enough to take the numbers without seeming too crowded.
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The first beach of any note north of Yialos is found at PLAKATO or PLAKATOS, more north-west than north and about 13km from Yialos. It sits at the northern tip of the island beneath PANO KAMBOS, the reputed site of Homer's Tomb.
The asphalt runs out after the village of Vouni and a dirt track branches left to Plakato and right to ancient ruins, where tradition has it that the poet is buried.
One tale has it that Homer's mother, Clymene was from Ios, another that he was killed after failing to answer a local riddle.
Anyway, the original graveyard has long since slipped down the earthquake-prone cliff and what remains is said to be Byzantine anyway so a trip here requires good footwear and a good imagination.
Nevertheless the islanders are very proud of the connection and on May 15 each year they hold a festival - Homeria - when and a flame is carried up here from the port.
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The huge sandy beach at AGIA THEODOTI is about 12km from Yialos, set in a sheltered bay facing east for those early enough to catch a breathtaking sunrise over the islet of Ikaklia in the bay.
Local tavernas serve basic but delicious food and there are many rooms to let in the Agia Theodoti area. A favoured haunt of wealthy Athenians this has helped push up local prices so don't expect a cheap meal.
Sand shelves gently into the sea which is usually limpidly calm. Nearby is the 16th century church of Agia Theodoti, the oldest on the island, that gives the bay its name.
A celebration is held at Agia Theodoti on September 8 each year to mark a famous victory by Ios islanders over the marauding pirates that once frequented these seas.
Agia Theodoti resort is also overlooked by the ruins of the 15th century Venetian fortress of PALIOKASTRO. It was built in 1400 by the Venetian Duke Marco Crispi and the remains of the old Venetian town can still be seen inside.
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A new road has opened up the coarse sand beach at PSATHI which was once the domain of egg-laying loggerhead turtles but increasingly seems the main destination of mating windsurfers.
Psathi resort is reached through a lovely green and fertile valley of olive and citrus groves (in spring at least, the landscape is far less attractive in the summer), about 20km from Yialos.
Flat wide sands are backed by a few tavernas and apartments. Doubtless a beautiful spot, but the sand is quite sharp underfoot and Psathi beach is north-facing so it can collect a fair amount of rubbish in the prevailing winds.
The sand at Psathi can shelve pretty steeply into the sea in places so care must be taken and there are few sunbeds or other facilities.
On windy days the sea swells can attract scores of windsurfers to Psathi bay. To get there follow the signs from Agia Theodoti.
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A long sand and pebble beach at KALAMOS on the eastern coast, about 16km from Yialos, is said to offer a good alternative to those who tire of the increasingly popular Manganari to the south.
The area around the long and beautiful Kalamos beach is a nature reserve and, being relatively remote and off the tour bus route, a peaceful haven that you are likely to enjoy with few other visitors.
There are enough visitors to Kalamos to support a beach cantina that supplies sunbeds and umbrellas. Waters are clear and with outlying rocks to give good snorkeling.
If you prefer even fewer crowds there are even more remote beaches both north and south of Kalamos within easy walking distance. North lies a small cove at PLAKES and to the south, just over the headland, is the hidden cove of PAPA.
Further south still TRIS ELIKES, a trio of beautiful secluded beaches, accessible only on foot.
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One of the most romantic areas of Ios, MANGANARI sits on the south-east coast about 23 km from Yialos.
Manganari is actually four beautiful white sand beaches necklaced along a coast of crystal clear water. There are beach tavernas, bars, cafes and watersports and this is now a very popular day out for trippers on the regular bus excursions. Then again Manganari is still big enough to find peace and quiet if you are prepared to do a spot of walking. The secluded bays make the place attractive for unofficial naturists.
Manganari tavernas were noted for their fresh fish menus but are now turning to more profitable burgers to supply the visiting youngsters who increasingly turn out of the coaches while on a break from partying on Mylopotas beach.
Too get there by car drive through Mylopotas and take the hill road turning right before Kalamos monastery. Bus excursions to Manganari can be booked in all travel agencies and buses leave from Yialos, Chora and Mylopotas, returning in the afternoon.
You can also catch a water taxi from Yialos - slow and expensive.
Ios is one of the southern Cycladic islands in the central Aegean Sea with nearest northerly neighbours Paros, Naxos and Amorgos with Santorini to the south. Ios has an area of 108 sq km and is about 18 km long and 10 km wide. The population of Ios is around 1,800.
Ios is a hilly island with the highest point at Mt Pirgos in the centre of the island at 713 m. Ios has only three settlements of note, the hill town capiral of Chora with the port area of Yialos below it to the west and the Milopotas tourist beach area to the east. which is virtually empty over the winter There are no inland villages of any size.
Tourism is the main soure of income on Ios with small scale farming and a little fishing.
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There is no airport on Ios but Santorini, which takes international charter flights, is only 30 minutes away by Flying Dolphin ferry services.
International charter flights also go to Mykonos where you can catch a ferry. An alternative route is a flight to Athens, then take a domestic Olympic flight from Athens International airport to Naxos or Santorini for ferry connections to Ios island.
There are other good ferry and hydrofoil links from Ios to neighbouring islands in the group that also take domestic flights including Paros, Naxos, Sikinos, Folegandros, Anafi and Syros.
Santorini has regular UK summer charter flights but there are no regular charter flights to Santorini in the winter months.
There are daily domestic flights from Athens to Santorini and flight times are 30 - 40 minutes. There are also regular flights to Santorini from Thessaloniki which take about 90 minutes.
Mykonos also takes charter flights from major European cities throughout the summer while Aegean Airlines and Olympic Airlines also operate regular flights to Mykonos from Athens.
Mykonos International Airport (JMK) is located 4km from Mykonos Town and transfer time to the town centre is about 10 minutes and there is now a regular bus service operating from the airport to the main port town.
Getting to Santorini by air from the UK is relatively easy. There are regular UK charter flights to Santorini throughout the summer. There is a regular shuttle bus to the main Santorini port at Fira in the summer months that leaves every 90 minutes. Taxis are also usually waiting at the airport.
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There are frequent ferry links to mainland Piraeus (7.5hrs) and regular sailings to Syros, Paros, Naxos, Sikinos, Folegandros, Santorini, Anafi and Milos, Sifnos, Kimolos, Mykonos and Crete.
Ferry passengers arrive at the port of Ormos on the west coast of Ios, about 2 km from the capital Chora, also known as Ios Town or the Village.
The port once had a thriving ship building industry based on the timber from the oak woods which covered the island in ancient time.
Regular buses connect the port and the town but is not too far to walk the wide stone steps which lead up the hill into to the village, provided you are travelling light. The walk takes about 15 minutes. A tourist office (tel: 091028) is at the end of the harbour and opens about 30 minutes before boat sailings to sell ferry tickets.
As well as daily high speed ferries and ferry boats to Ios from Piraeus there is also a catamaran service from Rafina which takes about 4 hours.
Ios island caiques (water taxis) run daily between Yialos and the beach at Manganari via Mylopotas beach during the summer months.
Car hire is not essential on Ios, especially if you plan to visit only the trio of centres at Yialos, Chora and Mylopotas beach. Bus services run between these three every 15 minutes although they can be very crowded in the high summer.
There is an hourly bus service between Yialos and Koymbara and there are daily excursions buses that leave Yialos, Chora and Mylopotas for more far flung beaches at Agia Theodoti and Manganari.
There are several taxis operating out of Chora, Mylopotas and the port and you can haggle the price for trips to beaches and organise pick-ups to get you back home.
If you do hire a car there are few paved roads on the island so there's little chance of you losing your way. The main road runs from Koumbara to Mylopotas via Yialos with a branch north to Agia Theodoti.
Many secluded beaches can be reached by car. Take great care driving at night as drink driving is common on Ios. Police have tended to be lenient with offenders.
Ios have a good supply of holiday accommodation, most of it in and around the capital Chora and the neighbouring beach resort of Mylopotas. Don't book rooms in Chora centre if you need a good night's sleep - this is the club night scene.
Visitors are usually hit with offers of rooms to let as soon as they step off the ferry. Many offer decent rooms at decent prices but if you prefer to browse try one of the waterfront agency kiosks and the Yialos port area itself has a couple of good hotels if you prefer to avoid the night-time street party noise of Chora up the hill.
There are domatia all along the steep hill road to Chora and it is worth bearing in mind that the nearer the centre you are the more noisy it gets.
Youngsters and backpackers usually head for the Francesco Youth Hostel for cheap dormitory beds and a few rooms. Chora centre is packed with hotels and self-catering studios. The old quarter is the nosiest and the quieter new quarter is found on the road to Mylopotas beach.
Campers head for Mylopotas Beach where the main campsite has a 24-hour bar, loud music, two swimming pools, restaurant. The nearby Stars Camping has quieter facilities and a clutch of bungalows.
More hotels and apartments can be found at Manganari beach in the south-east of Ios and there also a few good hotels sited in the port of Ormos.
Ios has a typical Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters. What rainfall there is fall in the winter between November and March. From June to September Ios has very little rain and the summer days are tempered by afternoon sea breezes and the strong 'meltemi' winds of the north-west. Ios has more than 300 days of sunshine a year. The warmest months are July and August, with an average daytime temperatures around 28°C. In spring Ios is much greener than in the parched summer period.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | Averages |
| 13 | 13 | 15 | 18 | 22 | 26 | 27 | 26 | 24 | 21 | 18 | 15 | Day °C |
| 8 | 8 | 9 | 12 | 15 | 19 | 21 | 21 | 19 | 16 | 13 | 10 | Night °C |
| 4 | 5 | 7 | 8 | 10 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 7 | 6 | 4 | Sun (hrs) |
| 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 3 | 2 | UV Index |
| 99 | 71 | 60 | 25 | 17 | 5 | 2 | 2 | 12 | 50 | 64 | 96 | Rain (mm) |
| 12 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 5 | 1 | 0 | 0 | 2 | 6 | 8 | 12 | Rainy days |
‡ Ios has been the setting for several feature films. The most notable are the 2003 comedy 'Ginger and Cinnamon' (Dillo con parole mie) and Luc Besson's 'The Big Blue' (Le Grand Bleu) with several scenes shot on Manganari beach.
‡ Excavations on Skarkos hill, near Chora, have unearthed a prehistoric settlement. Some building have two storeys, stone-paved floors and a sewage system. In 2008, Ios was awarded the European Union Cultural Heritage prize for the exceptional conservation efforts at Skarkos.
‡ In the village of Kolitsani, just west of Milopotas, there is a Modern Art Museum which showcases the works of many artists.
Virtual tours of Ios island
