Ithaca Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Greek island Ithaka


	Ithaca Greece \| tourist holiday travel guide to Ithaka

The small mountainous island of Ithaca, otherwise Ithaka or Ithaki is one of the Ionian group and lies off the east coast of Kefalonia. With no sandy beaches of any note and overshadowed by its more popular neighbour it has been fortunate in escaping the more damaging attentions of the package tourist industry.
Ithaca is a sleepy, rocky, some say dull little island - which Homer described as 'good for goats' - where time, if not standing still, is at best wandering about rather aimlessly. Apart from the small annual influx of tourists and the occasional invasion by day trippers from Kefalonia and Lefkas there is little to disturb the soporific atmosphere.
Ithaca is almost split in two by the bay at Ateos, with two large peninsulas north and south. The north has the best resorts, the biggest villages and the more interesting walks. The south has the capital at Vathi, nestling at the end of a huge inlet, and the more important links to Homer, as many island sites have been speculatively identified with places mentioned in the Odyssey. The west side coastline is rough and ragged with only a couple of decent beaches while the eastern side is typified by rolling hills and lush farmland. Ithaca is an island for those looking for somewhere to unwind and where the most exciting event of the day is catching a waiter's eye.

Overview

If you are in the market for a sleepy, remote Greek island then give Ithaca a close look. Apart from enjoying some tenuous links with Homer and some spectacularly beautiful scenery there is not much more on offer.
Island visitors are mainly well-heeled sailing types enjoying upmarket flotilla holidays in the north or the daily round of Homeric sightseers on a one-day boat and coach trip from nearby Kefalonia.
Byron thought Ithaka so beautiful he wanted to buy it but Homer himself describes it a 'overrun with barren rocks and cliffs . . . good for goats' - assuming that this was the homeland he was referring to.
Beaches are stone or pebble and couched in deeply carved bays often shaded by hills. The countryside is truly astonishing, the scenery heartbreakingly beautiful. Iif you are looking for tranquility, look no further.

Ionian map

Going Places is one of the UK’s leading high street travel agents and has some very good holiday deals for Ithaca.

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		South Ithaca
		Ithaca is almost split in two by the bay at Ateos, leaving two large peninsulas north and south. The north has the best resorts, the biggest villages and the more interesting walks. The south has the capital at Vathi and the more important links to Homer

Blue Flag beach

Vathy

Ferries & boat trips, boat hire
Cash machine
Vathy Museum, Folk Museum
0830-1500. Closed Monday

The south of the island is empty but for a few Homeric sites and the main port of VATHY or VATHI . The port has one of the most idyllic seafront settings in Greece, nestled at the end of a long, deep bay and embraced by mountains. The wooded islet of Lazaretto sits in the bay where a quarantine station was built in 1668. It was converted to a prison in 1864 and demolished by the earthquake in 1953. All that remains are trees and a picturesque, whitewashed church. Unfortunately the idyll ends as you step ashore onto an unprepossessing quayside lined with functionally bland buildings that owe something to pre-quake architecture, but not much. A preservation order in 1978 prevented unsightly building and protected the town from naked commercial development but the results are nothing to send postcards home about. The utilitarian view is not enhanced by a large car park and some seedy looking tavernas on the quayside.
There is also a small and dull archaeological museum that appears to survive only on daily diet of whistle-stop tour visitors. The best of the island treasures were carted off to Athens or looted by European archaeologists long ago.
The poor state of island roads makes Vathi the best base for exploring by boat although there are several out-of-town walks to sites that claim a mention in the Odyssey.
Vathy is where most island amenities are found - post office, bank, cash machine, bakery, mini markets, travel agents and shops. Ferries leave here to mainland Greece, Kefalonia, Corfu and Italy and boats offer many trips around the island and to neighbouring Kefalonia.

Vathy

Ithaca holidays in VATHI: Going Places; Olympic Holidays


		Aetos
		West of Vathy the huge bay at AETOS almost cuts Ithaka in two. Its dramatic setting with the steep ridge above and towering cliffs is offset by the scruffy, unkempt stretch of stone and shingle that calls itself a beach. Despite being near Vathy and backed by a road providing easy access it is usually strewn with rubbish and detritus washed up on the waves or flung from the windows of passing cars. The road runs behind the beach for around 1km and, being above the beach, the traffic noise and fumes, make any stay here unpleasant. A forest fire has recently scarred much of the hillside.	Aetos


		Walks around Aetos
		The narrow mountain ridge above separates the north and south and is a favourite place for walkers who can overlook bays on either side of the ridge and interrupt their ramblings to visit the ruins of a citadel built in the 8th century and abandoned in Roman times. Some say this was the castle of Odysseus but frankly, the evidence is pretty thin. To get to is from the road from Aetos to Piso Aetos go past the wooden hut behind the chapel and look for red waymarkers. They direct you to a stone entrance and up some steps. Branch right following the red waymarks.


		Dexia
		East of Vathy at the head of the bay is a narrow beach of coarse sand, pebbles and stone at DEXIA. This is supposed to be the beach upon which Odysseus landed on his return home. It is about 2km outside Vathy east. A fair number of apartments have gone up around here and the beach tends to get commandeered early in the day by the tenants. It was once a very pretty beach but is now, not unattractive, but less than it was. There are rubbish bins along the shore though they don't stop flotsam floating in on the tide. It is not much use setting out to sunbathe in the afternoon either as the beach in full shadow from the hills opposite by 2pm. Unfortunately a desalination plant has also been built nearby and, if the wind is right, you are subject to an irritating hum. Parking is also a problem on the narrow road. A small cantina opens in the summer. Nearby at LOUTSA are the ruins of a French fort built in 1805 overlooking the bay and where narrow tracks lead to even quieter coves.	Dexia


		Cave of Nymphs
		Above the beach at Dexa is the CAVE OF NYMPHS also known as MARMAROSPILIA. This is the cave where Odysseus is supposed to have hidden his treasure on his return from Troy. What treasures have been found are more of an archaeological nature and can be found in the museum in Vathy. The cave is, well it's a cave, and has a hole in the roof and a clump of cypress at the entrance. What atmosphere it may have had has been lost in a blaze of tacky coloured lights. Some say this is not even the original cave anyway, the real one being inadvertently demolished in a nearby quarry some years ago. The route to the cave is well signposted from the road.


		Skinos
		On the headland east of Dexa is the long and narrow beach of SKINOS set in very attractive countryside itself dotted with some very exclusive villa properties. It is approached down a dirt track and is all pebbles and stone, some of it none to0 clean as, like Dexa, it seems to attract tidal rubbish and, being relatively isolated, doesn't get cleaned very often. That said, there is decent snorkeling to be had along the rocky shore. A nice place to hide away from the crowds with plenty of shade from tall cypress trees along the shoreline but again, like Dexa, it suffers from a late afternoon in shadow. There are no facilities here.	Skinos


		Filiatro
		No problem with shade on the east facing bay of FILIATRO where an extremely pretty beach of pebble and stone serviced by a summer cantina. The water is shallow in the enclosed bay making for an nice warm dip if you fancy it, though footwear is recommended as there is no sand. Car access has no problems - just follow the road east out of Vathy for about 20mins until you reach the bay. Olive trees provide shade and the back of the beach where there is also camping. When I was last there in high summer there were pedalos for hire but no sun beds. Despite the lack of the latter the beach was still very busy.	Filiatro


		Sarakiniko
		The SARAKINIKO bay gives it name to a couple of shingle beaches separated by a rock outcrop into the sea. One of the beaches is dominated by an ugly cement villa that reminds us of the Greek love affair with the concrete mixer. This beach is also used to launch boats from a slipway and serious bits of boat rubbish is strewn around. The beach also suffers from tar and oil from passing boats and those that shelter in the bay. Sounds awful doesn't it but it is nevertheless quite attractive, though most visitors are merely passing by on their way to the better beach at Filiatro as there are no facilities here. There is shade from olives and cypress. If you get fed up of sunbathing on the pebbles there are sandstone slabs nearby.	Sarakiniko

Perahori

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Cypress

The rather scruffy mountain village of PERACHORI sits above Vathy and is where most of the island wine is produced. Small tavernas open in summer though this is very much a working, not a tourist village. A wander round will reveal the ruins of fortified houses that were once used by islanders to escape the eye of passing pirates. Villagers have recently taken a lead in growing organic produce. Visitors get unobstructed views over the whole south of the island. Nearby is the Monastery of Taxiarchis built in 1645 near the top of the mountain.

Perahori


		Arethousa Spring
		Around 10 km south of Vathi is the ARETHOUSA SPRING where the swineherd Eumaes supposedly brought his pigs to drink. The landscape and sea views are breathtaking but the route is precipitous and you are not advised to walk alone. To get there follow the asphalt road out of Vathy that is signposted to the the Marathis Plateau. At the village of Anemothouri, on the right, there is a large blue and white sign pointing to the Arethousa Fountain track. Follow the red waymarkers. The scenery at the fountain is pretty impressive and a difficult rock-strewn descent down a ravine brings you to an unnamed beach opposite the islet of PERAPIGADIA. The spring itself is little more than a dribble and many may wonder at the effort taken to get there.

Piso Aetos

Ferries

Not so much a beach as a port PISO AETOS sits on the eastern side to the narrow ridge that joins the two peninsulas. The port itself is a ramshackle affair that seems to have been extended to take more boats that used to call at the more northern quay at Polis. There is a small taverna in the port but the village is more a place to pass through than stay and, to be honest, so out-of-the-way you are better off taking a ferry that docks in Vathy over the ridge. There is also a very small pebble beach but it is nothing more than a bucket scoop out of the hillside.

Piso Aetos



		North Ithaca
		The northern peninsula has the better resorts, the biggest villages and the more interesting walks. The west side coastline is rough and ragged with only a couple of decent beaches while the eastern side is typified by rolling hills and lush farmland.


		Agios Iannis
		The resort of AGIOS YIANNIS looks spectacular from the cliffs above with nearby Nikoloas completing the scene with an old windmill for romantic effect. Getting down to it is a problem, particularly if you make the mistake of trying to make the descent before reaching the village of Lefki. There is dirt track before then but it is a precipitous drop and you will never get back up in a car. Even the road from Lefki is difficult with hairpin turns on a steep track that ends about 100m from the beach. A steeper path then leads down past the windmill. The beach is a long narrow strip of pebble and stone with fine views across the straits but there is no shade and no facilities.	Agios Iannis

Polis

Ferries & boat trips, boat hire

POLIS is the only west coast resort that could be called popular. A medium sized bay of white limestone and shingle has a small harbour at one end with a taverna nestling beneath the eucalyptus trees. It sits below the main northern town of Stavros and, with parking is on the beach, sun beds, umbrellas and the taverna it is a popular, crowded place in the summer. Land behind the beach itself is flat scrubland so there is little in the way of shade unless you retire to the taverna or sit on the harbour wall. Boat trips also leave here for Fiskardo on Kefalonia and around Ithaca itself.
On the north end of the bay was once the Lozios Cave where important religious artefacts were unearthed but earthquakes have reclaimed it and the cave has collapsed.

Polis


		Stavros
		Inland from Polis and overlooking the bay is STAVROS, the capital village north Ithaca at the foot of Mt Neritos. Stavros, which means crossroads, also envelops the hamlets of Pilicata and Kalyvia. It acted as a chora in the 16th to avoid pirate attacks. Worth-seeing are the fine churches of Sotiris, Agia Varvara and Zoodochos Pigi. A stern and imposing bust of Odysseus stands in the central platia and there a few traditional houses that survived the 1953 earthquake. There are several tavernas and cafes. Excavations from the Loizos cave used as a temple are displayed in the tiny archaeological museum.	Stavros


		Exoghi
		EXOGI is one of the oldest villages on Ithaca. It's a picturesque village in a picturesque spot with wonderful views over the sea. The main church of Agia Marina is worth a visit. there is a small cafe here and rooms for rent. The village is also noted for its three small pyramids built in 1933. The builder and his mother are buried under two of them.	Exogi


		Asfeles
		You must travel to one of the northern tips of the island to find another beach, though you are unlikely to visit. Dramatic white cliffs enclose the deep inlet at ASFALES which sits a few hundred feet below the village of Exoghi. Remote and relatively inaccessible it is rarely visited in the high season. Those that go are rewarded with astonishing views on the descent. Arrival is less than stunning though as the north facing beach of stone and pebble tends to collect its fair share of litter and is shrouded by the surrounding cliffs and woods. There are no facilities here.


		Marmakes
		The stone beach at MARMAKES is around 4km over the headland from Asfales and can be reached by a dirt track but it is a brave driver that tries it. Sheer drops to the sea along narrow unfenced and crumbling dirt tracks are for the suicidal only. You really need a boat or strong legs for a goat track from Frikes to get here, two good reasons why it is usually deserted. That said there are moves afoot to improve the road which may open it up to more visitors. The stone beach is very attractive with an offshore islet sporting a tiny chapel to add to the romantic setting. Trees line the shore and there are walks through the groves of olive and fruit behind. There are no facilities here.


	Frikes
Ferries & boat trips, boat hire	FRIKES is one of the major resorts in the north (if anything can be called such a thing on Ithaca), along with its neighbour Kioni just around the headland. Though tarted up for tourists in recent years it manages to retain some Greek charm. Cafes and tavernas are strung around the dainty harbour with the sleepy village behind luxuriantly planted with bougainvillea and jasmine. Feuding between local families adds a certain edge to village life where local festivals have been known to end in drink fuelled village punch-ups. Ferries from Lefkas arrive in the morning and the village is briefly busy with the new arrivals before settling back to sleep. A one-way system prevents what little village traffic there is grinding to a halt. This is a good base to explore the island with splendid walks through delightful countryside and various recently cleared trails along the coastline. The bay to the south offers a string of small coves and beaches, most of them easily accessible from the coast road though it can be a scramble to get to a couple of them. All are much the same - small pebble and stone coves with no facilities. One of the best, and nearest to Frikes, is KOURVOULIA, a narrow scoop of shingle by the roadside.	Frikes Kourvoulia

Kioni

Boat trips, boat hire

KIONI is the premier resort on Ithaka and it shows. Its a picture postcard idea of a Greek island resort with smart houses and apartments climbing the hills around a secluded horseshoe bay. Well-heeled British holidaymakers parade around the harbour before setting into one of the waterside bars and tavernas. Cars are banned from the village over the summer. It is so cute it could be cheesy but has somehow managed to marry authentic Greek charm to the demands of tourism. This comes at a price though and this is reflected in the costs of staying here and the big expensive yachts in the harbour trying to outdo each other in vulgarity.
For those that tire of sitting in the tavernas there are tiny coves at the mouth of the bay, windmills on the headland and old donkey trails to explore. The town beach sits below the windmills, a steep, short and narrow bank of pebble and shingle with overhanging trees for shade at one end. There is a cantina in high summer and takes 20 mins to walk (the narrow road is closed to traffic except out of season). Sun beds hadn't made an appearance when I was last there but it can't be too long

Kioni
Kioni

Kioni



		ITHACA MAP

The smallest of the Ionian island's, after Paxos, it is just 96 sq. km with a population not much above 2,000. The population declined steeply after World War II and again after the 1953 earthquake. The steep and straight 16 km long western coast is just over 1 km from Kefalonia at its narrowest point and contrasts sharply with the jigsaw inlets of the east. In fact, it is almost two islands in one, joined by a high ridge that is only 600 m wide.



		ITHACA WEATHER

Ithaca weather forecast (Kefalonia)

JAN	FEB	MAR	APR	MAY	JUN	JUL	AUG	SEP	OCT	NOV	DEC
9	10	12	15	18	23	26	26	22	18	14	13	Temp C)
8.0	5.5	4.5	3.0	2.0	0.5	0.0	0.0	3.0	7.0	9.9	11.5	Rain cm
5	6	6	7	8	10	12	12	9	7	4	3	Sun hrs

Cyclonic depressions provide the Ionian islands with mild, wet winters and little frost. Beginning in late autumn and continuing through the winter, the Ionians and the western mountains of the mainland receive abundant rain with snow at the higher levels. The average annual rainfall off the west coast is three times that in the eastern islands. Wet winters account for the island's verdant forests and lush, fertile plains. In April and May temperatures rise steadily with sharp showers slowly dying out. By June rainfall drops dramatically and temperatures soar with July usually bringing no recordable levels of rainfall at all. By September rains are much more likely while temperatures remain high compared to other Greek islands. But October brings heavy rains that can continue throughout the winter months.



		ITHACA FACTS

Size: 29km(18m) long by 6km(4m) wide (just 600m at narrowest).
Population: 3,500.
Season May(19C) - Oct(18C)
Getting there: Ferries twice daily from mainland Patras. Daily ferries from Kefalonia, Lefkas and three times a week from Corfu.
Getting about: Car hire and taxi. Daily bus from Vathy to Stavros and Frikes.
Water: Drinkable but high mineral content - bottled preferred.
Island hopping: Poor. Few ferries.
Special interest: Reputed to be Odysseus birthplace

Telephone +30 (26740)
Tourist Police: 32205
Health Centre: 32222
Port: 32909
Taxis: 31130, 31742, 31712, 73197

Cash machines in Vathi (2),Stavros (1)


		The beautiful Greek Islands are renowned for their spectacular scenery, magnificent mountainous backdrops, stunning sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Holidays to the Greek Islands are often most cherished for this combination of sunshine, warm waters and beaches set against truly wonderful scenery. Whether it is a traditional beach holiday you would like or something with a little more history, you'll find that a break away to the Greek Islands is just the answer!

Sailing

There are several daily ferries calling at Ithaca:
From Athens:
At Patras, Blue Star ferries leave twice daily for Ithaka calling at Sami Kefalonia on the way, usually 12.30 and 20.30 but check first. From Athens KTEL buses leave hourly for Patras from Kifissou bus station. The ferry takes 3hrs 20min. The earlier ferry docks at Piso Aetos after 3hrs 20mins and the later one at Vathy and takes about an hour longer.
From Athens you can also take a bus to Xanthoula for a ferry that takes about 2hrs 20mins to Ithaka but the bus ride is around 6hrs.

From Lefkas
There are daily ferries from Nidri in Lefkada calling at Fiskardo on Kephalonia and docking in Friskes. Journey time is about two hours. There is also a 2hour journey from Vasiliki, Lefkada to Piso Aetos. Taxis wait for the ferry.

From Corfu
Flying Dolphins sail from Corfu to Ithaca on Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday at 09.15 and take around 3hrs. The return sailing leaves Vathy as 14.00. There are also dolphins from Sami to Corfu on Wednesday and Saturday at 16.00


		Driving
		Driving on Ithaca is car hire or taxi. Many hire cars in Kefalinia and bring them over on the ferry. Taxis are about but not plentiful. There are always some on hand to meet ferry arrivals. If you hire a car or bike take note that police have been active the past few summers handing out hefty spot fines for not wearing seatbelt in cars or crash helmets on bikes. They don't wear them themselves but there you go. They tend to ignore speeding and drink driving but don't chance it. There is a daily bus from Vathy to Stavros and Frikes - check times at Vathy



		ITHACA PHOTO GALLERIES
		KIONI photo gallery by LYNNE ADAMS Going to Ithaca this year? If you would like your photo gallery here then email details. It takes 10 photos to make a gallery and they can be of the whole island or of a particular resort.



		ITHACA SITES

		A personal pick of websites on Ithaca
		Ithaca Island Walks : Aimed at the independent traveller looking for peace, quiet, and the opportunity to explore nature and local culture. Ithaca : A complete guide to Ithaka Island Greece with many hotels and other accommodation located in all the beautiful areas. - If you want your site considered email me

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Ithaca Greece | tourist holiday travel guide to Ithaka

ITHACA MAP

ITHACA WEATHER

ITHACA FACTS

ITHACA PHOTO GALLERIES

ITHACA SITES

A tourist holiday travel guide to the Greek island of Ithaca