Kalymnos Greece | tourist holiday travel guide

   

Kalymnos is one of the northern islands in the Dodecanese group of Greek islands. It is about 100km north west of Rhodes and lies alongside the Turkish coast with Leros to the north and Kos to the south. It has around 17,000 permanent inhabitants and most of those live in the busy and noisy capital at Pothia.
Tourism hasn't taken off in Kalymnos in a big way. This is mainly because the island has no airport, the beaches are mostly indifferent and the landscape of the interior is, in large parts, barren limestone, though many of the island's valleys are as lush and green as you will find anywhere in the Greek islands.
What Kalymnos lacks most is charm, though the visitors that do take to the island are fiercely positive about its attractions and return year after year. The main tourist strip on the west coast is at Massouri, opposite the island of Telendos and, while the views are great, the beaches are little more than narrow strips of stone. There is a splendid beach at Emborio and a charming resort at Vathi but, other than that, Kalymnos consists of barren, grey rock that is a magnet for climbers but otherwise uninviting.

Overview

Kalymnos hills Though not a particularly small island, much of Kalymnos is barren and inhospitable mountain. The scarred cliffs make it very popular with mountaineers who arrive in droves each year.
Kalymnos resorts Despite its size there are a limited number of resorts for the summer visitor to enjoy with the east coast virtually uninhabited and the main tourist strip in the west very busy.
Kalymnos beaches Kalymnos island beaches are not the most attractive and the best, virtually all down the west coast, have been monopolised by hotel companies - so crush any hopes of a charming Greek getaway.
Kalymnos climbing The rocky interior, a favourite with climbers, is crisscrossed by deep, attractive green valleys that walkers will find very enjoyable.
Kalymnos Despite the drawbacks there are plenty of attractions to make a stay here very worthwhile.

 

Dodecanese map

Going Places is one of the UK’s leading high street travel agents and has some very good holiday deals for Kalymnos.
Going Places
     
       
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pothia kalymnos   Pothia Click photos to enlarge
    The island capital of POTHIA is squeezed between steep grey mountain slopes in the south east of the island. It's a colourful, lively and noisy town built in an amphitheatre around the port. At the centre of the port is a complex of public buildings - a cross between fortress and palace - with town hall, police, customs and various official departments. The complex splits the town in two with the posher end to the south - full of tourist shops, bars, hotels and yacht moorings - while to the north is the rather more interesting market, fish restaurants and booze retailers.
Wherever you are in Pothia expect noise. This is a busy place with a reputed 6,000 motorbikes for sale or rent most of them seem to be whizzing back and forth at any one time. Apart from a dual carriageway along the port the streets are very narrow and a maze of bars, cafes, pool halls and bike shops - worth a stroll if you fancy dodging the traffic. The roads have been relaid recently after years of neglect.
The town is huge, so its easy to get,lost, but in the back streets there are some fine examples of neoclassical houses with extraordinary wrought iron balconies.
There is an Archaeological and Folk Museum on the northern hillside and the Nautical Museum at the western end of the port with details of the lives of sponge divers - if you can find it open.
There's also a horrible beach just beyond the museum which is little more than builders' rubble dotted with a few tamarisk trees. It has an unpleasant concrete harbour wall on one side and an even more unpleasant car wrecking yard on the other.
Pothia harbour
Pothia has some fine public buildings


Pothia
Pothia harbour is huge



Pothia beach
Car wrecks at Pothia beach
   
panormos kalymnos   Panormos
    Panormos is a drab and unattractive spot, little more than a few cafe/tavernas, minimarket and kiosk wrapped around a traffic island. Meals are cheaper here than beach resorts but you eat next to busy main roads. The best of the cafes is Oliv. The village is the main jumping off point for a trio of beaches at Platys Gialos, Linaria and Kantouni.
     
kantouni kalymnos   Kantouni & Linaria  
    Just south of Platys Gialos are the beaches of Kantouni and Linaria. KANTOUNI is a disappointing thin stretch of coarse grey sand that shelves steeply into the sea. There are stones underfoot out to sea. A couple of bars line the back of the beach, one pumping out loud pop music all day, even when empty. There is a small cave at the northern end of the beach that offers marginal interest as well as a steep concrete path that leads to the slightly better beach at LINARIA.
And Linaria is only slightly better, as the sand is coarse grey gravel and grit that tends to collect rubbish. It is thin and narrow with a few overhanging trees to provide shade. There are a couple of cafes on the headland and two good tavernas on the road above with fine views over the bay- the best being the unnamed taverna set in the cliff midway along the beach which serves excellent food grilled on an open charcoal fire.
Linaria
Linaria with Kantouni beyond
     
platys gialos kalymnos   Platis Gialos  
    The sign to PLATIS GIALOS or PLATYS YIALOS is seen clearly in Panormos and the road leads to one of the best of the beaches in this area. Access is down a steep road or you can take the steps leading down from a taverna whose owner is not only exceptionally friendly but serves excellent food too. The beach is a long swathe of shingle, clean for once, with explorable rocky coves at each end and it gets progressively sandier to the north though these are only occasional patches between the pebbles. There are a few sun beds outside the basic, but excellent, taverna built into the cliff at the back of the beach providing food, drink and toilets. Platis Gialos
Platis Gialos
     
myrties kalymnos   Myrties  
    Main tourist development starts at MYRTIES though it is still low key. The road snakes down the steep hillside to reveal views of the impressive island of Telendos opposite. The main street contains a few tourist shops, a mini market and a couple of bars near the taxi rank. Being at the southern tip of the main tourist trip it can be pretty busy here with bikes roaring by every few seconds.
Small side streets lead down to the ferry jetty which is flanked by tavernas, and narrow stone and shingle beaches. It's pleasant enough but hardly the stuff of tourist dreams.
The stones continue under the sea and boats make swimming difficult. This is the main jumping off point for visitors to Telendos with several caiques leaving every hour so there is plenty of through traffic but few bother to stay here long unless thy are booked in to the many apartments that overlook the beach and which tend to make it feel very hemmed in. There is also an early afternoon ferry to Xerokambos on Leros from here.
Myrties
Myrties

Myrties
     
massouri kalymnos   Massouri  
    MASSOURI is the main tourist strip on the island and it shows. There are plenty of hotels, souvenir shops, English breakfast bars and general neon tat - but it is on a relatively small scale. The main street runs straight through the resort following the coastline and a clutch of hotels and apartments that hug the slope above shore.
This is a very impressive stretch of coast with steep majestic hills behind, lush vegetation along the coastal strip, and the spectacular island of Telendos rising dramatically out of the sea across the bay opposite.
The beaches here aren't terribly impressive though, mostly narrow and composed of grubby grey sand, stones and shingle that dips quite sharply into the sea with stone and sand underfoot..
The best of the beaches are found at the southern end, notably at MELITCAHAS, well signposted off the main road. There is enough room for a couple of lines of sun beds and there are tourist facilities, tavernas, shops etc, in the village that sits overlooking the beach.
Sand and shingle predominate on the main Massouri beach which is backed by hotels and sprinkled with sun beds. Shade is provided by a line of tamarisk trees at the back of the beach and there are the sort of facilities you would expect in the island's most popular resort, as well as regular ferries across to Telendos.
Massouri
Massouri

Melitcahas
Melitcahas
     



   
telendos kalymnos   Telendos islet
    The islet of TELENDOS soars majestically from the sea opposite Myrties like a giant volcanic plug. It was actually formed by a massive earthquake in 500AD that split it off from the mainland, destroying the ancient capital of the island as it did so. Today i'ts one of the best reasons for visiting Kalymnos, with a smart new quayside packed with good tavernas and delightful tiny beaches dotted about in the islet's many coves. Every hour during the day small caiques takes a dozen or so passengers to and fro on the 10 minute journey from Myrties jetty. Telendos
Telendos
  There are no roads on Telendos so no traffic. the wide quayside has been recently paved and any number of tavernas have placed their tables along it. Its a romantic setting and a favourite with couples enjoying the views across to the twinkling lights of Myrties and Massouri which it has to be said look far more appealing at night than do in the daytime. The last ferry leaves around 10.30pm though some run later in the high season if the tavernas look full. There are a few rooms to be had but only out of season. Telendos
Quayside
  Beaches on Telendos are small and accessible only along rough tracks. The nearest is at the northern end of the harbour but it's a rather dull, flat stretch of dark, gritty sand backed by a row of tamarisk trees. There are fine views across the straits to the main island and the impressive remains of an early Christian basilica being excavated behind the beach that's worth a look. The small path that runs behind the beach leads to better coves beyond Telendos
beach
kalymnos      
  The path along the coast peter out after a while into what is little more than a goat track. A further scramble along a rough and rocky track reveals a couple of small coves dotted with sun beds. The furthest cove, known as PARADISE BEACH, is the best with a bank of shingle dipping into shallow seas beneath a large rock outcrop that provides shelter. This is also a naturist beach and helps to keep it quietly exclusive as, no matter where you sit, you are likely to be thigh to thigh as it were with a naturist.. Telendos
Paradise
  Other beaches can be found on the western coast of the island by following the alley off the main harbour past the Barba Stathis taverna and up a paved and tiled track which peters out at the top of the hill. To the right down a precipitous cliff path is the small cove of HOKLAKAS with a few sun beds set on shingle beneath the sheer cliffs. This is a great place for snorkeling and enjoying the sunset to the west. Telendos
Hoklakas
  The rough hilltop track leads to a fork where the right hand track takes you to similar cliffside beach at TRIVALIA. The left had track wends its way through a large pine wood to open scrubland where a couple of early Christian ruins are set among some scrub and a few trees. The track continues right to the end of the island but there is little here of note other than scrub and good views across to the main island. Telendos
Early Christian buildings
    A track opposite leads to a small featureless bay of coarse sand. Its a peaceful spot but has no facilities and no shade and tends to gather some rubbish. Talking of rubbish, don't bother following the wide track that winds around the headland it only leads to the island rubbish dump - a pile of old burning blue plastic bags belching out fumes. Telendos
Unnamed beach
     



   
kastelli kalymnos   Kastelli
    The former fortress of KASTELLI overlooks the sea in one of the wildest parts of the island where the coast is full of rocky coves. There are steps down the cliff to a pretty chapel.
   
arginondas kalymnos   Arginondas
    The coast road north from Massouri provides some spectacular views over the sea, now dotted with fish farms. The sheltered inlet of ARGINONDAS has a small pebble beach backed by olives, pines and a couple of tavernas. It's also the start of an inland walk over gentle hills to Vathi on the other side of the island and a jumping off point for many climbers tackling the cliffs that run along this part of the coast. A little further north is the village of SKALIA where there is a large cave not open to the public.
     
emporio kalymnos   Emborios  
    Sheltered, peaceful and south facing the beach at EMBORIOS, otherwise called EBORIO or EMPORIO, is one of the best on the island. The sand is gritty but fine and backed by tamarisk trees and a string of tavernas. The beach shelves steeply into the a sea of large stones and banks of seaweed so it's not particularly good for children. Views of the offshore islets are delightful and there is a caique back to Massouri that leaves at 4pm if you don't fancy the bus. A steep climb at the far end of the beach takes you over the hill to another beach, much more secluded, with trees for shade and a small beach cantina.
Best of the tavernas in Harry's set back up the hill with a beautiful flower garden to sit in, though you sometimes have to wait an age to be served but there you are , this is Greece and there is no more pleasant a place to wait.
Emborio is the end of the road for the daily bus and only hardy hikers venture into the hills from here.
Emborios
Emborios

Harrys
Harry's Garden
     
vathy kalymnos   Vathi  
    The coast road east out of Pothia winds through ugly cement factories, oil terminals and gasworks before heading up into the hills. The coastal views are magnificent and the road, lined with bougainvillea, is fairly decent for once.
After 4km or so a steep concrete track plunges down the hillside to the small bay at AKTI where there is a delightful stretch of shingle beach with a couple of large tamarisk trees for shade. It's backed by a single taverna serving basic food and an ideal peaceful spot after the turmoil of Pothia, though boat trippers can fill the place up during the high season.
Around 10km out of Pothia is the short, fertile valley of VATHI covered in groves of olive, tangerine and lemon. A right turn takes you to the quiet port of RINA where a clutch of big tavernas take care of visiting tourists and boats line the long narrow gorge. Boat excursions visit the stalagmite DHASKILIO cave set in the cliff along the gorge and there are tiny beaches at ALYMYRES and DHRASONDA accessible only by boat.
The valley behind, though beautiful from a distance, is a moribund, flyblown place close up. Signposted villages are little more than clusters of homes set behind high walls.
Akti
Akti

Rina
Rina Harbour

Rina
     
vylchadia kalymnos   Vlychadia  
    The west road out of Pothia leads to the village of VOTHINI then down to the inlet at VLYCHADIA where there are two pleasant bays each side of the small harbour, one a gentle curve of shaded sand the other a small strip of clean pebbles. Good tavernas back both beaches.
Regular excursion leave from here to the cave at KEFALA just south west of Vylchada. It's a 30 minute walk off the boat but you are rewarded with vividly colourful rock formations and a particularly imposing stalagmite in the largest of the six chambers.
Clearly marked behind the sandy beach is the extraordinary Museum of Submarine Finds open most days. Former diver Stavros Valsimades has collected an impressive array of underwater ephemera including sponges, amphorae, salvage from sunken ships as well as stuffed marine animals.
Vylchadia
Vlychadia

Vylchadia
   



   

KALYMNOS HIGHLIGHTS

martime museum kalymnos   Museum of Maritime findings More on the museum icon
    This free museum is in the coastal resort of VLYCHADIA west of Pothia and one of the richest private collections in Greece. There are showcases packed with sponges, shells and corals. You can also see the wreck of an ancient ship, amphorae, stuffed fish and various of finds from the sea bottom collected by former sponge diver Kostas Valsimades. marine
     
rock climbing kalymnos   Rock Climbing
    Kalymnos is a favourite with climbers thanks to challenging climbs in the most picturesque locations. Rock formations are excellent quality. As well as around 200 single-pitch routes (5/2000), there are many cliffs of 10 to 200 metres offering new routes. The climbing is always varied with overhangs and roofs with holes and stalagmites.
You can generally climb on Kalymnos all year round and you get pleasant sea breezes to keep cool in summer. Most pitches are west or southwest and get morning shade. All tourist facilities - hotels, restaurants - are open until mid-October. Approaches to the various sectors climbs average 20 to 30 minutes. For more details on rock climbing on Kalymnos see www.rockfax.com/
     
pserimos   Pserimos
    PSERIMOS is a small island about half way between Kos and Kalymnos. It would be an idyllic place but for the day trippers that descend in droves throughout the season. A few lucky visitors can find rooms to stay but not many as there are a mere 30 or so houses.
The main beach on the island is at Avlakia, a lovely stretch of golden sand, quickly covered in sunbedded bodies. Day trippers arrive like locusts and snap up all available sun beds, pack the tavernas and generally make a noisy addition to what would otherwise be a peaceful islet. Even the ferries have been known to queue to tie up to the small quay. Those boats that can't find a berth head off to neighbouring PLATYS which has a similar, but smaller, sandy beach and far fewer trippers.
There are a couple of other beaches, not as attractive but much quieter. One is at Vathy in the north, reached with a 30min walk along a well marked path to a cove of sand and pebbles. Another is at Marathounda to the west, a 45min walk to a pebble cove. The island is so smal that nowhere is more than an hour's walk in any direction
Day trippers make up almost all the visitors as there is so little accomodation on the islet. There are rooms to be had above the tavernas and one small store which gets stocked up by the daily boat that leaves Pothia on Kalymnos around 9am each day. Nearly all the other boats that pull in are on daily cruises between Kos and Kalymnos with a stop here and at Platys.

Photos Pserimos photo gallery by DABS BANNER

   



map kalymnos  

KALYMNOS MAP

Kalymnos was once the capital of the Greek sponge fishing industry, its diver noted for their skill in diving to great depths. But a mystery disease wiped out most of the sponge beds in 1986. Warehouses still process sponges but almost all are now imported though Kalymnos is experimenting with establishing new sponge beds around the coast. There's still a small fleet which sets out at Easter for remaining beds around Cyprus and Italy, returning in the summer with the catch.

  Kalymnos map
   



kalymnos  

KALYMNOS WEATHER

 

Kalymnos is known for its dry atmosphere thanks to the porous limestone landscape which soaks up much of the water.

 
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC TEMP (C)
12 12 14 17 20 25 27 27 25 21 16 13 Avg
9 9 10 12 16 20 22 23 20 17 13 10 Min
15 15 17 20 24 28 30 30 28 24 20 17 Max
     
Kalymnos weather
Kalymnos weather forecast
 
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC RAIN (mm)
150 105 76 28 19 2 0 0 2 65 94 157 Avg
15 13 11 8 5 1 0 0 1 7 9 15 Days
     
   
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC SUN (hrs)
5 6 7 8 9 11 12 12 10 8 5 4 Avg
   



facts kalymnos  

KALYMNOS FACTS

    Size: 15km(10m) by 8km(7m)
Population: 17,000
Season: May (19C) to Oct(19C)
Water: Drinkable but high mineral content - bottled preferred.
Getting there: International flight to Kos and daily ferries from Mastichari. International flight to Athens and ferry from Piraeus. Daily ferries from Rhodes, Kos, Leros and Samos.
Getting around: Bus services in the main resorts but mainly taxis.
Island hopping: Good. On the main Dodecanese routes.
Special interest: Rock climbing.
Telephone +30 2661
Tourist Office: 28583
Tourist Police: 29301
Museum: 23133
Taxis: 29555, 24222

Festivals
Sponge week (after Easter)
July 27 - Brosta festival
Aug 15 - Telendos

Cash machines in Pothia(4)
  
Advert  
     
    Sailing
    kalymnos ferries Kalymnos is on the main ferry route for long and middle distance traffic so trips to nearby islands like Kos, Leros, Patmos and Samos are not a problem. Get tickets from travel agencies lining the port or the cafe on the main harbour jetty itself. There's a regular daily ferry to Pserimos leaving at 9.30am and returning at 4pm at the eastern end of the harbour and cruise caiques offer various days out - again check the travel agencies.
     
    Driving
    kalymnos car Roads are plentiful in Kalymnos but many have been in a shocking state. Steep bends, unfenced cliffs, potholes and loose gravel make driving difficult. Roads can narrow suddenly and hidden hazards unsigned. The streets of Pothia were resurfaced in 2005 after years of neglect but expect Greek drivers to ignore one-way signs and mopeds to fly just about anywhere. Taxis cruise the main route from Pothia to Massouri and can be flagged down easily though they can suddenly disappear around 11pm when the last ferries have pulled in from Telendos. Buses are cheap and punctual, though not very frequent, and you must get a ticket before you board from the local supermarket or kiosk.
     
    Flying
    kalymnos flights There were plans for an airport to take charter flights but they were dropped some time ago and have little chance of being revived. There are local Olympic flights to Athens but the main air route into Kalymnos is via Kos with a one-hour ferry from Mastihari.
     
    Walking

walking guide Marengo Books have several excellent walking guides and walking maps of Kalymnos and other islands

 

kalymnos walks The rugged limestone landscape makes Kalymnos ideal for walkers and rock climbers. Local buses will get you to most resorts for walks. In spring the mountainsides are swathed in thyme and oregano, not only making for pleasant aromatic walks but providing food for the island's bees and flavour for the delicious honey. There is a paved donkey track that leads from Pothia to Vathi that is considered one of the best walks in Greece.

   



 

KALYMNOS PHOTO GALLERIES

   
   



 

KALYMNOS SITES

    A personal pick of websites on Kalymnos
 
kalymnos  photos    
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A tourist holiday travel guide to the Greek island of Kalymnos