The tiny island of PATMOS sits like a piece of lost jigsaw in the Aegean sea just south of Samos and close to the Turkish coast. It is one of the most northerly of the Dodecanese and might almost be classed as one of the Aegean group. From the central Chora you can almost see to all the furthest regions of its indented bays.
Patmos has history - St John was exiled here - and it has attractive scenery and some excellent beaches. The main port at Skala, with the Chora above, neatly splits the north and south Patmos and the combination of deep water port and religious attractions make Patmos a favourite stop for Mediterranean cruise ships that often queue up to berth at Skala's quay.
The main Patmos beaches are found on the eastern shore, north and south from Skala, and set in deeply indented bays with islets offshore that lend a romantic air.
Patmos is a revelation - in more ways than one. It is known as the 'Holy Island' as St John wrote the last book of the bible while exiled there.
The Monastery of St John dominates the whole island of Patmos and the cave where the saint reputedly lived has been turned into a shrine and enclosed by religious buildings.
Patmos has some of the most attractive beaches and beautiful landscape in the Dodecanese and the Aegean. At just 12km long, anywhere is just about walkable from the main port of Skala. A car will get you to most beaches and roads, though narrow, are generally good.
Though well served by ferries, Patmos remains slightly off the main tourist circuit. As a result it has retained that Greek charm and character so easily lost to the downmarket demands of big tour operators on the more popular Greek holiday islands.
Skala sunset
Skala
SKALA, the industrious main port of Patmos, greets the visitor with a utilitarian air that belies the rest of the island's beauty.
Skala sits at the end of a deep inlet that can take the biggest cruise liners (and often does) as well as catamarans, ferries and the usual fishing boats.
Ferry visitors are met by a large swathe of concrete with the locals standing at the harbour gate offering accommodation. Opposite the harbour entrance is the main Skala square, carved out with café tables, where caged birds twitter away beneath large white parasols.
Beyond the square, narrow streets fan out in all directions. The streets are lined with small shops that sell anything from tourist trinkets to designer labels - all aimed at cruise ship passengers resting between coach trips to the holy cave of St John on the hill above.
The Skala shopping area is supposed to the traffic free, but shoppers must dodge the odd moped as locals treat traffic laws with usual Greek contempt. Racks of clothes, postcard stands, café chairs and trinket tables appear as if by magic when the ships pull in, miraculously turning the empty white alleys into bustling shopping arcades in moments.
A short walk inland at Skala and you find a modest maze of whitewashed block houses spreading up the hill. They may look pretty from afar but close too they are little more than boring concrete cubes.
There is a narrow stretch of sharp sand to the north of the Skala port area, popular with the locals and enlivened by beach café tables set out beneath shady tamarisks, though it is backed by a busy and noisy main road.
Far better beaches are close enough to make it worth giving the Skala town sands a miss.
Chora
The CHORA, with its fortified monastery of St John, sits above Skala and dominates the whole island. Taxis run from the Skala quayside and there is a daily bus service.
Chora itself is a maze of twisting medieval alleyways circling the imposing monastery - strangely spooky thanks to an absence of colour. Everywhere is whitewashed, doors are grey or black and there are few flowers.
No vehicles are allowed in Chora so the alleys are particularly narrow and often a little claustrophobic. As they all look the same and roll around the steep hill in a chaotic way - a reminder of the time when they were designed to confuse pirate raiders - it is ridiculously easy to get hopelessly lost.
But there are terrific views of the island to be had from the top of Chora and small tavernas beneath the monastery walls offer panoramas of the island. Other romantic tavernas lie hidden away in tiny squares and there is always the impressive monastery of St John to visit (see below).
The trick is to avoid going to the Chora when the cruise ships are in and its alleys are crawling with camera clicking tourists. This is particularly true on the short climb up from the car park to monastery where street vendors set out stalls selling religious trinkets.
Halfway up the long, steep and winding hill to Chora is the Cave of Apocalypse (see Highlights) where St John is believed to have written the Book of Revelation.
Visitors can enter the cave where he lived in exile and is reputed to have received his religious revelations.
The narrow waistband of land at Skala is a convenient place to divide the island in two, though there is little difference in features between north and south Patmos. There is a good selection of beaches in both directions. The best of the northern beaches are on the east coast with a trio in succession around the bay just north out of Skala and less visited, but equally delightful, beaches on the headland at Geranos. Other less attractive beaches lie on the north and west coasts of the island.
Meloi
MELOI or MELOY is the first decent beach out of Skala port and only about 1.5km from the port. It's fairly easy walk over the hill to get there or a very short taxi ride. To reach Meloi beach take a right turn at the eastern end of the port where the main road turns uphill and north heading out of Skala.
Meloi is an attractive beach of sharp sand curving around a small bay and backed by a low stone wall with a distinctive line of tamarisk trees that offer particularly good shade in the afternoon.
The water is shallow at first but does drop quite steeply a couple of metres from the shore. There are stones and seaweed to wade through before it gets sandy underfoot.
Though fairly narrow, Meloi beach is long enough to provide space at the northern end for those who prefer to get away from the crowds, not that it gets particularly crowded anyway.
There are no sunbeds here and visitors tend to congregate beneath the trees and at the southern end, near the large car park, where there is a small jetty with a few boats usually tied up. Nestling among an attractive stand of trees behind Meloi beach is a pleasant taverna.
The island's only camping site is nearby. It has a small minimarket for the basics and an excellent taverna that is well worth seeking out for lunch. Several small apartments and rooms for rent can be found along the road leading to the beach.
Meloi beach is an ideal spot for those that prefer to be near a beach with a short ride into Skala for an evening out.
A road branching south points to the small sand and pebble beach at ASPRI for those like it even more tranquil and the path around the headland reveals even more solitary coves, though visitors may occasionally find themselves overlooked by the giant cruise ships that anchor in the bay.
Agriolivadi beach
Agriolivadi taverna
AGRIOLIVADI is signposted right off the main road north out of Skala just past the petrol station. The road twists and turns as it falls down the hill to a large flat area that serves as a car park
Agriolivadi beach lies just below the car park and it is one of the best on the island, with shallow waters and fine sand that sweep right around a large open bay.
There is a long sliver of good sand that turns to stone in the south where there is a small concrete quay under the trees.
Agriolivadi beach is a little exposed, with a narrow line of insubstantial tamarisks at the back of the sands offering a little natural shade, mostly at the eastern end. The water is shallow and sandy underfoot, making it ideal for families.
There are outstanding views to offshore islet of Agia Thekla, planted picturesquely in the bay, and there are a couple of splendid beach tavernas that offer plenty of shade and good refreshments under trees and vines at the back of the beach.
Unfortunately, the sunbed owners have opted for big and ugly white plastic beds that are crammed so close you really do need to get on with your neighbours if you are to enjoy a day's sunbathing on Agriolivadi.
They are jammed together along the best parts of the beach and mar what could otherwise be an idyllic setting.
Kambos beach
KATO KAMPOS, also called KAMBOS or KABOS, is one of the most popular beaches on Patmos. It is a large, deep beach of sharp white sand and a few pebbles.
Kambos beach is set in a deep bay, as are most of the beaches on this jigsaw shaped island and the shallow, warm waters make it ideal for families.
The beach extends east and west of a large car park at the western end, just off the main road. Stands of tamarisk crop up all along Kambos beach providing natural shade and there are a couple of shady tavernas and a café.
Most visitors opt for the more sheltered western end of Kambos beach where the sunbeds sit in steady ranks and the brightly coloured pedaloes line the shore.
Kambos is popular with windsurfers and that has resulted in a large and monstrously ugly big tent being plonked in the middle of the beach to house surfboards and sunbeds. The eastern end is far quieter and has a small jetty for boats to tie to.
The road behind the beach leads up the hill to the village of EPANO KAMBOS, the third largest on the island, with a central square dominated by the church of the Evangelismos and a pleasant taverna, set in the shade of a large lane tree.
There are religious festivals here on March 25 and August 14 with plenty of feasting, music and dancing in the streets.
Vaghia beach
Yeranos beach
Beyond Kambos beach the road split north and east. The east road snakes along the lace like coastline of the Yeranos peninsula where there are several beautiful south-facing beach coves, rarely visited as they are generally without facilities, but ideal for those searching out peaceful locations.
First is VAGNIS or VAGIAS, a 10min walk over the headland from Kambos, and a clean sweep of white pebble and stone backed by shady tamarisk trees. It's an idyllic spot with views across the bay to Agia Thekla island to the west and Agios Georgios to the east. A beach cantina opens in the summer.
Next is LINGINOS, a flat stretch of stone, rather exposed and with no shade but superb views and finally, at the end of the peninsula is LIVADI GERANOS or GERANOU itself where there are a couple of sheltered sand and pebble beaches with clumps of tamarisk providing plenty of natural shade.
Above the beach is the dazzling white chapel of Panagia Yeranos. A small taverna opens on the road up the hill in the summer and caiques from Skala pull in daily during the summer season.
The meadows behind the beach are noted for the profusion of orchids that flower in spring. The southwest facing beach has views to the islets of Agios Georgios and Kentronissi while that facing southeast has the deeper shade.
For those that enjoy walking the coastal route from Kampos to Yeranos take about 40 min on foot.
Lampi beach
Lampi stones
Off the coastal road to Yeranos a track leads north over the hill before turning east and following the northern shore of the Yeranos peninsula to the north facing pebble beach at LAMPI or LAMBI.
Lampi bay lies just 2km over north of Kampos and the long pebble beach has long been noted for its distinctive, strongly marked pebbles. As they make ideal souvenirs, the biggest and best have long since been plundered to grace the homes of tourists.
The name Lambi is Greek for 'shining' and that's just what the wet pebbles do when washed by the sea but, like all unpolished pebbles, they turn dull and dusty when they dry out.
There are enough left to ensure pleasurable finds for those ready to pick their way along the shore but you do the place far more good by throwing them back in the sea while you are there than throwing them away once you get home.
A taverna sits beneath a clutch of tamarisks, splitting the long, narrow Lambi beach in two. North winds make for choppier seas and the pebbles, though smooth, drop steeply into the water so it's not great beach for children, but makes for excellent snorkeling.
Avdelas
The area to the west of Lampi is known as LIVADI KALOGIRON and a dirt road snakes through the hills above a wide and fertile plain that is planted out with vegetables.
The landscape is strikingly beautiful here with cypress and pine hedging the small fields on the edge of the sea. Below the chapel at Panagia Livadiou is a small beach of sand and shingle with a beach cantina in the summer season.
The dirt track leads inland than back to the sea again at the small beach at AVDELAS below the chapel to Agios Nikolaos. Caquies often pull in here on round island trips.
Though very peaceful there are no facilities or shade on the exposed beach of sand and stone.
On the promontory is the 11th century chapel to Agios Avdelas, thought to be one of the oldest on Patmos. This area was once home to the many craftsmen that were shipped in to build the monastery of St John.
Levkes bay
South of Avdelas on the west coast of Patmos is a small bay at LEVKES. It is most easily reached down a narrow paved track off the Skala to Kambos road.
The track narrows sharply after 1km and it is best to leave the car and walk. Few will bother though as the beach, though in an attractive setting, is mostly made up of great gobs of unattractive dried seaweed.
There are some ramshackle wooden quays at the southern end , full of old boats and rotting hulls. The beach, such as it is, is also very exposed with no shade or facilities.
The south of the island of Patmos, below the main port of Skala, is dominated by the Chora and the Monastery of Ionassis that sits above it. Slightly smaller that the north it has fewer beaches although they are just a good as the north.
Grikos
The road south out of Skala follows the coast for 2km or so, passing the small and attractive bay at Saspilon before snaking its way over the headland for another 3km to the picturesque fishing port at GRIKOS or GROIKOS.
This hugely attractive village has a harbour at the eastern end, with tavernas and rooms lining the pleasant quayside, There is a long sandy beach at the western end, backed by a thick line of shady tamarisk trees. Offshore, almost blocking the approach to Grikos bay, is the large uninhabited islet of Tragonissi.
The Grikos harbour area has plenty of rooms and hotels as well as several tavernas. The quayside has also recently been improved with attractive paving and lighting. Grikos bay is usually crammed with yachts and fishing boats as it is one of the most sheltered bays on Patmos.
Grikos beach is also one of the longest on Patmos and very sandy near the harbour, changing to sharp sand and pebble as you head east. To the far end of the bay is the huge rock of Kalikatsou, also known as Petra (Greek for 'stone').
Petra
This massive 10m high rock sits at the head of a barren mudflats at the southern end of Grikos bay. PETRA is also known by locals as Kallikatsou - Greek for the jackdaws that used to nest in it.
Petra is a huge rock with an interesting shape and with many local myths linked to it, partly because it has been a refuge for many hermits down the centuries.
Hermits have left their marks too with a set of carved steps, holes for burning candles and even a rock carved cistern for holding water.
Petra rock can be climbed quite easily but there are no safety features and visitors regularly slip and fall. Below it, Petra beach stretches out the south with sun beds and a small beach cantina in the summer.
Petra beach is sharp sand and stone and dips rather steeply into the sea. The south end of the beach is called PLAKI and is popular with nudists but there is only a single small tree for natural shade.
South of Plaki are a clutch of small coves and beaches that are worth exploring though they are all rock and pebble and several require a steep scramble to reach them.
Diakoftu and Alykes
Just south of Petra is the narrowest point of the island where beaches on both the east and west coast are only 200m apart.
To the west is a pleasant sand and stone beach called STAVROS while twin beaches of DIAKOFTU and ALYKES are found to the east, though the latter are a little more difficult to reach as there is no road.
Stavros has a small line of trees for shade but the others are very exposed, with little in the way of shelter. Alyki is Greek for salt and there are a couple of small salt pans here.
Psili Ammos
Considered one of the best beaches on Patmos, PSILI AMMOS is also one of the most difficult to get to, having no road access.
Psili Ammos is accessible by boat (and many head there from Skala) or a relatively arduous 25 min scramble across a series of steep crags and deep gullies.
Psili Ammos beach is a swathe of golden sand and notable for the large shady trees that grow on the beach, offering plenty of good natural shade. The far western end is popular with nudists and at the other a small beach cantina opens in the summer when the owner gets there by boat.
The north-west facing beach is rather exposed to winds and heavy swells can develop, not to say small sandstorms on the beach, so it's worth checking local weather reports before setting out for Psili Ammos.
High winds and heavy seas can sometimes prevent a boat pick-up and visitors are forced to climb home back over the rocks.
Cave entrance
Cave of the Apocalypse
John, the disciple of Jesus Christ, was exiled to Patmos in 95AD from Ephesus, where he had founded a church, by the Roman emperor Domitian. On Patmos, John lived in a cave, now the most important sanctuary on the island, and called the Cave of the Apocalypse or the Sacred Grotto.
According to tradition it was here that John dictated the Book of Revelation to his disciple Prochoros, now the last book of the Bible. John had: 'The Revelation of Jesus Christ, which God gave unto him, to show his servants things which must shortly come to pass . . .' as the book begins. The work is rather surreal in nature, difficult to understand and open to many interpretations.
The entrance to the cave is about halfway along the road from Skala to the monastery above and is now surrounded by monastic buildings. Steps lead down past several side chapels and at the cave entrance is the meaty inscription: 'As dreadful as this place is it is nevertheless the house of God and this the Gate of Heaven'
The chapel of Agia Anna has been built over the front of the cave which is on your right as you enter. The cave is quite large but low, so you can easily touch the ceiling. There is the triple cleft in the rock through which John is said to have heard the voice of God and there are several niches that John himself is said to have carved.
In 96 AD Domitian was assassinated, his persecution of Christians ended, and John was allowed by the new emperor Nerva to return to Ephesus.
Monastery bells
Monastery ceiling
Monastery murals
The monastery of the evangelist St John the Divine sits on top of a prominent cliff bluff and can be seen from virtually everywhere on the island. The monastery's high grey walls are fringed the white cube houses of Chora. It looks more fortress than monastery and that was part of its purpose, to keep monks and villagers safe from attacks by marauding pirates.
That is also the reason why, despite its large size, it has only two doors in its 15m high walls. There is even a balcony from which molten lead could be poured down an any attackers trying to storm the main gate.
Building began in 1088 under the direction of the monk Hosios Christodoulos. The interior is a multi-levelled complex with interior courtyards, colonnades and narrow corridors.
Inside, the visitor first enters the cobbled courtyard lined with four chapels. To the north the monk's cells are constructed around the main nave or catholikon, in the Byzantine style and an astonishing temple constructed in 1820 by 12 craftsmen and containing the abbot's chair and many beautiful icons.
Indeed many of the monastery's icons are beyond price, as indeed are many of the treasures inside, especially the sacristy, built by the bishop Nikiforos of Laodicia with a large icon of the revelation, dating from 1625, and an 11th century icon of Agios Nikolaos, as well as jewels, gold and silverware donated by rich Patmians.
The historic library is considered today one of the most important religious libraries in Greece, if not the whole Christian world, with 900 rare manuscripts from the 15th and 16th centuries, more than 20,000 rare books and around 13,000 other manuscripts and codes
Tiganakia Bay on Arki
Marathi harbour
Pandelis Taverna, Marathi
Arki and Marathi are part of a small clutch of islands in the Dodecanese group, north of Lipsi and east of Patmos and a popular destination for day trip boats from Patmos, Leros and Lipsi. They are on the main ferry route from Samos to Kalymnos and gets about three boats a week calling in with visitors and supplies. There is also a twice weekly boat from Patmos.
Arki is about eight nautical miles from Patmos and has about 50 permanent residents, a harbour, a couple of small beaches, four tavernas and a minimarket. Arki harbour is in a deep bay, well protected from winds. Most islanders live close to the harbour and survive by fishing, goat herding or helping run the tavernas.
Arki is virtually treeless: a dry, rocky landscape with little vegetation apart from olive trees and some hardy shrubs. On the hill overlooking the harbour are the ruins of an acropolis, barely more than a pile of stone now. The best Arki beach is at Tiganakia in the south. It's very small and rocky but the view across the bay to nearby islets is idyllic.
Day trippers arrive from mid June and by August the beach can be crammed every day. At the northern shore is a cave with stalactites and stalagmites, although it's not easy to find among the olive trees. For rooms ring Evdokias 6973558617, Trypas 022470 32230 or Nikolas 022470 32477.
Arki may be small but Marathi is even smaller,al though it does have the best beach. There are a couple of small harbours, three tavernas, a few houses for the 40 or so islanders, a beach and some goats. There are no villages on Marathi, just the sandy beach with a taverna at each end and one in the middle. Marathi has a few rooms to let but it's best to arrange to stay on Marathi before you arrive - if they are full you sleep on the beach. Ring Pantelis Taverna 022470 32609 or Mihalis on 022470 31580.
Patmos one of the most northern of the Dodecanese island to the south west of Patmos and has an area of 24sq km, a length of 12km and a coastline of 63km. It is roughly the shape of a figure eight with many deep indents and promontories all around the coast.
Cheap flights to Samos from European airports
Details in most European languages and currencies
Patmos has no airport so the easiest and quickest way to get there is a flight to Samos or Kos, then a Flying Dolphin hydrofoil. Most fly to Samos International Airport (SMI) or Aristarchos Airport which is about 3km outside Pythagorio and 10km from the capital, as this is the nearest airport and on the outskirts of the port at Pythagorio.
There are good ferry connections and the summer schedules (July-September) are posted in the port.
Flying to Kos International is also a reasonable option although it is considerably further away. There are two ferry ports in Kos. Mastichari is only 8km from the airport but ferry connections are fewer and it may mean changing boats at Kalymnos.
There are more direct ferries from Kos Town, but this is 26km west of the airport and there are no buses so it means taking a relatively expensive taxi ride
Patmos is on the main ferry and hydrofoil route through the Dodecanese so it's relatively easy to get to by boat. During the summer there are daily ferry sailings from the E1 gate at Piraeus, Athens by Dane Sea Lines and Blue Star Ferries on the Piraeus to Rhodes route, also calling at Leros, Kalymnos and Kos. There are also services to Samos and Syros
GA Ferries also operate a Sunday service to Rhodes, calling at Patmos. The journey from Piraeus takes 7-10hrs depending on routes. Samos port has a recorded message on boat sailings in English on +30 22730 27890. Flying Dolphin hydrofoils sail regularly from Samos and Kos (see below) or there is a catamaran sailing from Rhodes that calls at Kos. For details on times call Apollo Travel agency: +30 22470 34105, 22470 31724, 22470 34106
Caiques from Skala visit all the main beaches in the summer months. There are daily cruises to Samos, Icaria, Fourni, Lipsos and the surrounding islands of Marathi, Agathonisi, Aspronisi, Macronisi, and Tiganakia. The Patmos Express leaves daily for Lipsi at 10am, returning at 4pm. Daily cruises also leave for beaches at Psili Amos and Lambi. Details on +30 22470 32664.
Patmos is a small island and most beaches are walkable from the capital port at Skala. Good roads link Skala to all the main beaches and there are dirt tracks to others. The only beach without road access is Psili Ammos. There is a daily bus service from the harbour entrance at Skala with 11 buses a day to Chora and eight to Grikos in the south and four buses daily to Kambos in the north. Bus schedules are posted in the central square in Skala.
There are several car rental firms in Skala and petrol stations open 7am-9pm weekdays and 7am- 3pm on Saturday. There are petrol stations at Skala, Chora, Grikos and Kambos.
The taxi stand in at the entrance to Skala harbour but you may have to wait at boat arrival times when they can all be snapped up. You won't have long to wait though on such a small island.
| JAN | FEB | MAR | APR | MAY | JUN | JUL | AUG | SEP | OCT | NOV | DEC | |
| 12 | 12 | 15 | 18 | 23 | 28 | 31 | 31 | 26 | 22 | 17 | 13 | Avg day °C |
| 5 | 6 | 7 | 10 | 13 | 17 | 20 | 20 | 17 | 13 | 10 | 7 | Avg night °C |
| 5 | 6 | 7 | 9 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 13 | 11 | 8 | 6 | 4 | Sun (hrs) |
| 2 | 3 | 5 | 6 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 9 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 2 | UV Index |
| 159 | 108 | 88 | 42 | 28 | 6 | 3 | 3 | 18 | 42 | 103 | 167 | Rain (mm) |
| 12 | 10 | 7 | 6 | 4 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 12 | Rainy days |
UV: 3 Low; 3-5 Moderate; 5-8 High; 8 Very high | Rainy days=1mm+ | 1 inch=25.4mm
Patmos has a mild Mediterranean climate with 3,00 hours of sunshine a year and little rainfall. Rain falls on average about 79 days each year, mostly during November to February. Approximate average temperatures range from day-time highs of 29°C (85°F) and night lows of 23°C (74°F) in August to daytime highs of 14°C (58°F) and night lows of 9°C (49°F) in January. Patmos is swept by northern meltemi winds in August and can be clouded in thick fog on some winter days.
The beautiful Greek Islands are renowned for their spectacular scenery, magnificent mountainous backdrops, stunning sandy beaches and crystal clear waters. Holidays to the Greek Islands are often most cherished for this combination of sunshine, warm waters and beaches set against truly wonderful scenery. Whether it is a traditional beach holiday you would like or something with a little more history, you'll find that a break away to the Greek Islands is just the answer!
Camping at Stefanos, Meli Dodekanissa Patmos, Tel: 22470 31831
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