One of the most popular beach holiday islands in Greece, Corfu is pretty much awash with good beaches. Strangely, some of the most popular Corfu beaches are not the best but they do benefit from being near Corfu Town. Dassia and Ypsos, for example, have relatively poor beaches but are nevertheless major Corfu holiday favourites. It is not until the north coast that big sand beaches appear, notably at popular package tour resorts such as Roda and Sidari. Beaches on the west coast are quieter but further apart . The further south you go, the wilder the beaches get. The east coast, south of Corfu Town, has a clutch of good beach holiday resorts but then the coast is clear until the beach party resort of Kavos, a favourite with clubbers. Corfu has picked up no fewer than 33 Blue Flag awards in 2011 for its clean, safe family beaches.
Daily buses
Boat hire
Car hire
Cash point
Castle
Ferry port
Laundry
Museum
Tavernas
Taxis
If you can afford it, and if you can bear the crowds, KERKYRA or CORFU TOWN is as pleasant a provincial town and holiday hotel centre as you will find anywhere in Greece. Venetians, French and British have all had a hand in developing Corfu Town and the results are both impressive and attractive, especially since 1994 when public buildings were given a major clean-up in preparation for a EU summit.
This is a large town of 40,000 inhabitants (and who knows how many at the height of summer) but it is an expensive one, particularly in the main tourist areas. Corfu Town is dominated by double forts. The 13th century Neo Frourio (New Fort), with its dungeons, cellars and impressive turret battlements, is much the more interesting to visit than the older, but far less exciting, 6th century Paleo Frourio (Old Fort).
The focus of Corfu Town is the Spianada, a public square and park - one of the biggest in Europe - where evening crowds can take a stroll as children play. It is rather spoilt since parts were turned into a car park and there is even a McDonald's. Bizarrely there is an English cricket field where matches are still played.
North of Corfu Town square is the French-designed and arcaded Liston, built to resemble the rue de Rivoli in Paris and packed with elegant cafes and restaurants. This is a pleasant place for a stroll but it costs a packet to eat in this tourist honey-pot. The food can be bland and the service may sometimes be brusque.
Nearby is Georgian Palace of St Michael and St George which houses the wonderful Museum of Asiatic Art, one of the largest and best collections in the world. In fact Corfu Town is noted for its many weird collections. The Ionian Bank houses a Museum of Banknotes and you can even find a Serbian War Museum (the Balkan Wars of 1915-17, not the recent one).
The Byzantium Museum is housed in a restored 15th century church and there is the Solomos Museum dedicated to the island's poet. Also of note is St. Spiridon's Church, home to Corfu island's patron - a 'mummified' saint - located just behind the Liston. The church is impressive and well worth a visit. To the north of the Corfu Town is the popular coastal holiday resort suburb of ALYKES which has a sandy beach, good shallow water and a regular bus service.
Blue FlagDaily busBoat hireCar hireTavernasTaxis
The highway north out of Corfu town isn't the best introduction to the island. A dreary motorway through a commercial wasteland ends at island's main marina and ferry stop at Gouvia.
Just before then, and merged into it, is the resort of KONTOKALI, about 6km from Corfu Town. Despite its noisy neighbour it manages some charm, enjoying subdued nightlife, good tavernas and bars, and fine views over the Bay of Gouvia.
The narrow streets at Kontokali end up at a couple of beaches, both of sand and pebble if you can see either for the sunbeds. Showers are available and you can even rent beach towels. It's shallow in the water between the two groins and the watersports areas are cordoned off to prevent accidents.
The other beach to the north of Kontokali is smaller and tends to get greater use from the locals. In Kontokali village are several shops and restaurants, the remains of a castle and, north along the coast, the ruins of an ancient Venetian shipyard.
Blue FlagDaily busBoat hireCar hireMuseumTavernasTaxis
Massively developed with tourist hotels, GOUVIA overlooks a large marina that overlooks the spectacular Komeno Bay.
Gouvia is about 8km from Corfu Town and remains one of the most popular holiday destinations on Corfu island although it is sometimes difficult to see why.
Gouvia is certainly in a pleasantly rural spot, set among olive groves and pine forest, and the marina is an impressive sight but, apart from that, it is a fairly dull resort.
Gouvia however has a good selection of bars and restaurants and a very lively night atmosphere. But there is not much to do in the day other than head off somewhere else.
Gouvia beach is a bedraggled strip of pebbles with lots of sunbeds and a variety of watersports. The drop into the sea is sharp and the beach can gather rubbish so it's not great beach for families. There are several outlet pipes into the sea too, so Gouvia beach may not be the cleanest in Corfu either.
Shops, most selling souvenirs, are concentrated along a short, narrow street in Gouvia centre. Gouvia is on the main Green Bus route to northern resorts. A timetable is posted near the Pippilas Restaurant and buses generally run on time, are clean and the staff very helpful.
There is an Ionian theme park nearby at Danila Village and the slightly crackpot Corfu Experience features a reproduction Greek village built in slick Disney style and without even a hint of irony.
The impressive Corfu Shell Museum has an outstanding collection, but it's precariously positioned on a busy highway. The Louis Kerkyra Hotel has a water park complex that opens to the paying public.
Blue FlagDaily busBoat hireCar hireTavernasTaxis
Curving around the bay from Gouvia is the land promontory at CAPE KOMENO which looks interesting but isn't. Dominated by the enormous Grecotel hotel and bungalow complex the cape itself has little to offer but scrubland and rock unless you are a sucker for luxury hotel life.
However, Komeno is well sited as a base for exploring this part of Corfu island. To the south are sensational views over the bay to Corfu Town and the yacht marina in Gouvia, whilst to the north is the Gulf of Dassia and the holiday resorts of Dassia and Ipsos.
The holiday hotel complex has sea on three sides and there are many small inlets and bays, most of them shingle and rock but some with changing cabins and showers courtesy of the hotel.
Blue FlagBoatsBuses
CampingCar hire
CyclesLaundry
RuinsTavernasTaxis
The resort of DASSIA, also known as DASIA,or DAHSIA is little more than a large cluster of bars, restaurants and shops on either side of a very busy main road. Hotels line the beach side of the road and apartments are on the other side. Traffic rarely thins out on the main road through Dassia and it can be a nightmare to cross.
A network of footpaths lead down to Dassia beach - a long narrow strip of stone and sharp shingle with just a little sand. Dassia beach is about 200m long and 30m deep. Shallow waters are backed by dramatic pine and olive covered cliffs.
A long cement path runs down the back of the beach and sunbeds are relatively cheap, though there are no showers or toilets. Doughnut sellers parade up and down selling food to the peckish. At the southern end of Dassia beach is a small, pleasant bay with a ruined Venetian boatyard, but it's a bit of a scramble to get there.
Dassia resort proper has a wide range of restaurants and bars, although most offer uninspired tourist fare. Shops mostly offer souvenirs but the locals are known throughout Corfu for their friendliness.
Surprisingly, Dassia has relatively little nightlife despite the high tourist numbers, so many visitors hop out to nearby Ipsos for clubbing. It is about 15 minutes from Dassia on foot with fabulous views on the way.
Blue FlagDaily busBoat hireCampingCar hireCash pointLaundryTavernasTaxis
IPSOS or YPSOS could be seen as the lager lumphead's paradise on Corfu. A firm favourite of British package tour operators Ipsos also attracts of east Europeans. The resort boasts a couple of kilometres of wall-to-wall burger outlets, karaoke bars and big-screen TVs. Ipsos has the smutty slogan T-shirts, the blow-up plastic turtles and plates piled high with sausage and chips.
Ipsos beach is quite a let-down; a narrow, long and uninviting strip of shingle and sand, backed by a very busy road. The best bit is near the harbour to the south; it's quieter there, though not much. Another small harbour lies to the north.
There are watersports galore with jetties every 50 yards or so. Showers and toilets are available and there is lighting along the main Ipsos road. Families run a gauntlet of speeding traffic to reach the tavernas and cafes on the other side from the beach.
A downmarket atmosphere pervades Ipsos, but this is not Ibiza or Faliraki - the clubs are relatively tame and generally close around 4am. Street touts are a nuisance, pulling passers by into the clubs, often literally. Children sell glo-sticks and Ipsos branded headgear.
Tavernas sell basic, low-priced meals and bars boast giant TVs, all-day English breakfast, karaoke, pool tables and gaming machines. Select the place ain't and if you want more than a tan and a hangover you could be disappointed. If it's cheap, cheerful and noisy you're after then Ipsos could be just the ticket.
The neighbouring resort at PYRGI is little more than an extension of Ipsos itself; a little less hectic, a bit cheaper maybe and Greek food on the menu now and then. What a contrast in the hills where the lovely village of AGIOS MARKOS is a step back in time.
Blue FlagBoat rentalBusesLaundryTavernas
Pool bars
Heading up the north-west coast out of Kerkyra it is at BARBATI that the beaches improve. This long, narrow kilometre of sand and pebble (mostly pebble) is away from the main road and set in a fine bay cloaked in pines.
The east-facing bay is sheltered and the water shallow, although it does drop off steeply a little way out. Rocks at both ends of Barbati beach provide interest and the remains of an ancient church are worth a look if you can get someone to unlock it.
Barbati beach is relatively quiet until daily boatloads arrive from Kerkyra and Ipsos. There are sunbeds and watersports, with showers and toilets at the back of the beach alongside tavernas and beach bars. Three large complexes of apartments are arranged in ranks up the hill and the network of roads to feed them provides plenty of parking.
Barbati village up the steep hill and on the main road. There are terrific views over the bay and plenty of shops and restaurants, including a car hire firm and a new bakery. The village has the usual tavernas and bars, mostly geared towards families.
Barbati nightlife is low key but Corfu Town is just 30 min away on the daily bus. There is no taxi rank here but locals are happy to phone for you.
Thanks to Joanne at Dionysos for Barbati updates
Blue FlagBusesTavernas
The shingle and stone beach at NISSAKI or NISAKI is very pretty, sitting in a horseshoe bay with a taverna at one end.
In ancient time Nissaki was three pebble beaches necklaced together but an offshore islet that became 'joined' to the mainland as rock was quarried away from it (Nissaki means little island). Quarried stone formed a ramp that eventually linked the land to the islet.
It shouldn't be confused with the beaches at nearby KROUZARI, which is much bigger and dominated by the massive and inaptly named Nissaki Beach Hotel.
The real Nissaki beach, away from the hotels, is quiet and has good snorkeling. As it is so small it can sometimes get busy, especially when the day trip boats arrive.
Nissaki is an ideal resort for those who like it quiet, enjoy lovely views and want little more than a taverna and sunbed. Youngsters may find it a bit too quiet but popular resorts at nearby Kassiopi and Ipsos make for a lively evening out.,
There are no toilets on Nissaki beach but you can use the taverna if you buy a drink. Plenty of deserted rocky coves are around to explore if you follow the coastal path out of Nissaki.
There are several excellent tavernas in Nissaki, three close to the beach and two in the village behind. There is also a small cafe and a minimarket. The large jetty to the west of the village offers a limited range of watersports.
The beach at nearby Krouzari is pretty much dominated by the large hotel and is a long strip of steep sloping shingle. Showers, changing rooms and toilets can be used and a boardwalk runs over the stones for the length of the beach.
Trees behind provide natural shade, and the usual sunbeds and watersports you expect on a developed beach.
Boat hireTavernas
A delightful and romantic bay of single and sand pebbles greets visitors to KAMINAKI. The pebble and stone beach is surrounded by olive groves and is well sheltered from wind in an idyllic setting.
Unfortunately it's only a short coastal walk to the Nissaki Beach Hotel, so the beach tends to get busy later in the day. Sunbeds are for hire and the beach has a single shower. For toilets visitors use the taverna on the beach and another taverna on the cliffs above. A single mini market provides basic shopping.
It's a steep drive down to Kaminaki beach and there is limited parking. This is still the place to chill out and relax.
Boat hireTavernas
AGNI bay is found at the bottom of a very steep and twisting lane off the main coast road in the north-west of Corfu. It's a small bay of pebbles with the odd patch of sand. Three tavernas open in the summer, all with views across to Albania.
Jetties have been built to accommodate the boats that regularly pull in here. Agni beach shelves deeply into the sea and some sharp underwater rocks make this an unsuitable beach for children,
Apart from the tavernas, which offer free sunbeds for customers, the resort has no facilities. Agni is a beautiful and peaceful setting and a step back in time for those seeking a more relaxed Greek island holiday.
BusesBoat hireTavernas
The exquisitely beautiful bay at KALAMI has a fairly long beach of white shingle littered by sunbeds and with showers and toilets.
The stones are sharp, so footwear is advisable, but the sheltered bay is safe for snorkeling. The resort has strong romantic and literary connection through the Durrells - Lawrence and Gerald who had a lovely home, the White House, here.
Unfortunately Kalami also now home to one of the biggest self-catering compounds on Corfu. The complex sprawls up the hillside, though the owners have planted enough wisteria to hide most of it.
The coast of Albania sits 2km offshore and the seas get choppy in the channel should you hire a boat, not to mention the wake from dozens of passing cruise boats.
Kalami has three mini markets and a couple of tourist shops in the village and some good tavernas. On the headland near Kouloura are a couple of sheltered coves that have flat rocks for sunbathing, but you need a boat to get to them.
Tavernas
Around the headland from Kalami is the pretty fishing village of KOULOURA. Not much of a beach, just a narrow strip of sand and shingle under the cliffs opposite the harbour.
But Kouloura enjoys a beautiful setting that oozes peace and tranquillity. Rocky coves offer snorkeling and sunbathing.
Much visited by boats, the bay can get dirty with fuel in the summer and sea urchins are a problem on the rocks. No boat hire, no watersports, no bars, no clubs, one taverna and the nearest shop is a 20min walk to Kalami - heaven on earth some will way.
Blue FlagTaverna
The long 300m sweep of shingle at KERASIA is in a beautiful spot and ideal for those wishing to escape the crowds.
Surrounded by olive and pine Kerasia beach is flat and water shallow, though it dips sharply after a few metres.
Kerasia has a single beach taverna and a small shop on the beach but not much else, although sunbeds are available to hire and plenty of parking can be found.
Prince Charles, they say, is an irregular visitor of the Rothschilds, who have a large estate nearby but don't expect to find yourself rubbing shoulders with royalty while on the beach.
Blue FlagBoat hire
Horse ridingTavernas
AGIOS STEFANOS is a lovely, isolated and secluded cove with a small, but attractive, pebble beach, not to be confused with the resort of the same name on the north-west coast.
The resort has four tavernas on the beach and a couple more in the village where there is also a mini-market and a few decent gift shops.
Agios Stefanos is a favourite upmarket resort that has earned the nickname 'Kensington-on-Sea'. Villas dot the surrounding hills and the resort's exclusive tag is reflected in the local prices.
A target for day-trip boats, Agios Stefanos resort can get busy as the day wears on and tavernas can get pretty full. Sunbeds line the beach but the waters are not shallow and the shingle drops very steeply into the sea, so it's not recommended for children. The sea can also suffer gobs of washed up seaweed and sea urchins are found on the rocks.
The narrow, winding road down to the beach is steep and difficult, not least because you will repeatedly want to stop to take photos. Neighbouring coves include the pretty Kerasia beach and horse riding can be had at the nearby Emeritus Nature Reserve.
The north has the best and the worst of the landscape. For 10km or so out of Corfu town the visitor is greeted by a dismal swathe of package holiday squalor. A dreary sprawl of hotels and restaurants is relieved only by occasional vegetation.
Further north the highway finally peters out and the scene changes dramatically. The impressive rocky coastline is backed by the greenest of hills and dominated by mountains. A few resorts north and east have escaped the desecration of their more southerly neighbours and enjoy the more typically Greek atmosphere that comes with small pebble coves and dazzling turquoise waters. It is only in the larger resorts that it slides back into tourist driven tackiness.
Boat hireTavernas
The long splendid bay at AVLAKI tends to get missed by most visitors probably thanks to its better-known neighbour Kassiopi and it's not particularly well signposted roads.
Avlaki is a very popular spot for weekending Greeks and it's not hard to see why. The narrow 800m-long beach is mostly shingle but there are boardwalks and sunbeds and the sea is shallow, although only for a few metres before dropping off sharply. Avlaki is very quiet, but more lively resorts are only a short walk away and you can always opt for a boat trip to Kerkyra.
Avlaki has no watersports as such but there are canoes for hire and a sailing school in the village which has a couple of tavernas, a single bar and no shops - the nearest is at Kassiopi.
The erection of some rather pretentious new villas does little to enhance the countryside, the architects deciding they required the re-siting of huge quantities of soil and stone. A couple of small coves lie beyond the headlands at either end of Avlaki beach but they are just narrow and rocky strips of shingle.
Boat rentalCash machines
Diving schoolTavernasTaxis
I had KASSIOPI down as a haunt for head bangers and got shot out of the water by regular visitors who swear it is just an attractive seaside village.
The small town square is however dominated by big-screen TVs, discos do thump until dawn and karaoke bars abound - although it is on a smallish scale and nothing like notorious resort like Kavos.
Kassiopi still finds room for more traditional tavernas and regular visitors emphasize the relaxed friendliness of the locals. Kassiopi has a very pretty waterfront but much of the village is thick with souvenir shops. Two large mini markets and a couple of smaller ones meet the basic shopping needs.
Four nearby beaches can be reached by footpaths around the headland but none are particularly good. The main Kassiopi beach is pebble and has showers and toilets.
The other Kassiopi beaches have no facilities and sea urchins can infest the rocks so wear plastic sandals if you fancy a swim. Better beaches can be found to the south at Avlaki and Koyevinas - about 20 mins drive.
Boats trips leave daily for Corfu Town and to other beaches along the coast. The ruins of a castle overlook Kassiopi harbour, but little is left to see as the castle was demolished by the Venetians in the 14th century. There have been some recent attempts at restoration.
This was a tiny, peaceful bay until an 850-bed hotel complex sprang up behind it. Now AGIOS SPIRIDON or AGIOS SPYRIDONAS looks set to be a growing resort in one of the less crowded parts of Corfu.
A sandy beach at Agios Spiridon is set in a smallish bay enclosed by rocks on either side. Another longer and better beach lies about 500m to the west. The shoreline is shallow on both beaches with rock pools sunbeds, showers, toilets and changing facilities. A beach cantina also opens in the summer.
Agios Spiridon village has a couple of mini markets, a tourist shop and three tavernas - all highly recommended by visitors. There is a nearby nature reserve and walkers will find plenty to admire on the local tracks and trails.
A lagoon behind the resort that is home to the showy sea daffodil. They are now very rare and this is one of the few habitats left to them in the whole of Greece so please don't pick them.
Blue FlagBusesCash pointTavernasWatersports
Just beyond the beach at Agios Spiridon are the protected wetlands of Antinioti where birds and other creatures nest in the wide lagoon. A little further east is the huge sandy beach of ALMYROS
The western end of the 7km long sands is fairly quiet with dunes and shallow water. As you head east more hotels and restaurants make their mark. There are shops and mini markets nearby and plenty of beach sports including windsurfing.
Towards the centre of the beach are more pebbles and it drops quite sharply into the sea. In places the beach is quite deep but in others there is only room for a single line of loungers.
There are views across to the Albanian hills and Almyros is a good spot if you like the combination of lively and quiet. Escape the crowds by walking east or west.
Boat cruisesBusesCash pointDiving schoolTavernasWatersports
The resort at ACHARAVI has the immediate appeal of an M6 truck stop but appearances are deceptive. The actual village is tucked away from the main road and comprises a quiet crescent of traditional tavernas and cafes behind 3km of pebble and sand called Almiros beach.
Doughnut and ice cream sellers frequent the sands at Acharavi but are not too intrusive. Sun loungers are cheap and plentiful. The main part of Acharavi beach is pebbles but walk about 500m in any direction for the best of the sand, with a naturist area in the Kassiopi direction.
Acharavi beach overall runs to 3km and gently shelves into the sea, but stones lie underfoot so it's wise to have footwear. The water is shallow but waves can get a little choppy in the afternoon breeze.
The main Acharavi beach is a clear favourite of families and a relief from the dishevelled mess that flanks the main highway although, as the main town in the region the resort does offer doctors, banks, post offices, mini markets etc.
Good restaurants can be found and local shops sell olive wood carvings. In the hills behind the village walkers can get on the Corfu Trail and other excellent walking paths leading up Mt Pantokrator.
There are the remains of Roman baths nearby. A good water park (Hydropolis) is 10 minutes walk from the village and most Acharavi hotels offer free use of the pool.
Blue FlagBoat hireBusesCar hireCash pointHorse ridingTavernasTaxis
It's a three hour drive to Roda from Corfu Airport along twisting roads so expect to feel exhausted on arrival. RODA or RHODA is a small, pretty, but essentially charmless village with a large number of bars, restaurants and small shops.
Forget any Greek flavour too - Roda is English seaside town with karaoke and bingo nights in the scores of British theme pubs, many run by ex-pats. The drab uniformity can make a long stay in Roda fairly tedious. A midnight noise restriction helps mitigate the music throb but beware apartments sited on the main Sidari road as this is very busy and noisy 24 hours-a-day.
Access to Roda beach is down some steps from the main road where there is limited parking. The beach is sandy for the most part with some pebbles and gets better at the western end. The sea at Roda is shallow and sandy underfoot so it's safe for children and non-swimmers and Roda beach has plenty of watersports.
Roda has been making efforts to improve itself of late, adding benches along the seafront as well as some palm tree planting for shade and some daily beach cleaning.
The excellent air conditioned buses are cheap, with a bus stop right by Roda beach. The place is plagued by stray dogs and feral cats but they are not a nuisance if you ignore them.
Blue FlagBoat hireBusesCampingCar hireCash pointTavernasTaxisWatersports
The big guns of the British package firms have been trained on SIDARI for some years. What beauty Sidari once had, and this was clearly substantial, has long been blown out of the water and the once pretty Sidari village square is now lost in a hectic maze of happy hour bars, Brit-style pubs and cheap trinket shops.
Sidari has three beaches. The first is near the old fishing harbour to the east and tends to collect seaweed between the conspicuous outlet pipes. The central beach is a long sweeping bay of grey sand with a vast array of watersports, even the occasional bouncy castle. To the west is the famous Canal d'Amour area, where sandstone cliffs are eroded into spectacular formations. The small sandy coves are as attractive as they are overcrowded.
The resort's main road is narrow and busy and the restaurants and bars that fringe it offer a diet of bingo, TV football and pie and chips. Sidari is about as Greek as Blackpool; cheap and cheerful if you like a home-from-home holiday.
The Sidari nightlife is cheap and cheerful too, and enlivened by endless karaoke. Pestering bar touts can be a nuisance but will leave you alone if you show no interest. Stray animals are the usual problem, despite an annual winter cull and the Sidari area is notorious for mosquitoes so don't forget the insect spray.
Tavernas
If Sidari visitors feel the need to get away from the British abroad they need look no further than PEROULADES or PEROULATHES, a handsome hill village of traditional tavernas and cafes providing access to very quiet beaches and some lovely walks.
The main Peroulades beach is hardly that - just a narrow strip of sand below vertical cliffs that floods with waves at every passing boat and you can only get to it by making a perilous descent down scores of winding cement steps.
The taverna above Peroulades beach offers stunning sunset views and lends the place its alternative name of Sunset Beach.
From rocky cliffs to long sandy beaches, the west coast has more to offer those looking to get away from the crowds. Although tourism has spread, the grip is not quite so tight as it is in the east and south. It still has its low points but they are far less widespread.
As mountains give way to farmland and Corfu town gets nearer the desolation becomes more notable but away from the crowds visitors are rewarded by some of the most beautiful landscape and the best beaches to be found on Corfu.
Blue FlagBusesTavernasWatersports
The low-key resort of AGIOS STEFANOS also known as SAN STEFANOS to distinguish it from the village of the same name that can be found on the north-east coast.
Gentle hills roll down to a 500m long, flat and deep sandy beach that is remains fairly quiet even in the high summer season.
The shallow water and gently sloping sands make Agios Stefanos a particular favourite for families and there are sunbeds on the beach which, at 70m deep, is big by Corfu standards. The flat expanse and low cliffs help to give the resort a very English feel.
Agios Stefanos resort has some watersports and a child play area. Tucked away from the main traffic routes and only approached along narrow lanes the resort tends to be quieter than most.
It has some good tavernas and small family hotels and apartments as well as the usual selection of shops and bars. Some outstanding scenery is around for walkers to enjoy in this part of Corfu.
Blue FlagBoat hireCar hireCash pointBusesTavernas
Walks along the headland from Agios Stefanos to nearby ARILAS or ARILLAS are popular, with fine views and splendid sunsets.
The beach at Arillas is a little busier than its neighbour, though not as long at 250m nor as deep at just 15m.
But Arillas beach is flat and very sandy and with very shallow waters, so it's great for families and it is backed by low rolling hills, except at the southern end where cliffs loom behind.
Beyond a rock outcrop at the northern end is an unofficial nudist beach where they get the best of the sand in a very sheltered cove.
The islet of Gravia just offshore and reachable if you are a decent enough swimmer. Sunbeds, watersports, boats for hire and a water taxi to other resorts along the coast are all on offer.
In Arillas resort itself is a wide selection of mini-markets - I counted at least seven - and a few shops selling tourist souvenirs. Cafes and tavernas line the long promenade.
Blue FlagBoat hireBusesCyclesTavernasWatersports
AGIOS GEORGIOS or GIORGIOS is a newish sprawling resort set at the mouth of a wide wooded valley. Don't confuse it with Agios Georgios to the south. Many regard the long and gently sloping beach as one of the best in Corfu and it is a popular destination for young families.
Agios Georgios beach very long (1,400m) and deep too (140m). The north and centrale parts are the most popular (naturist at the far northern end), with watersports the high season. The southern end is narrower and less crowded but seaweed tends to pile up.
Most of it is clean golden sand and clear shallow water, although seas can be a bit choppy. A river runs through the main Agios Georgios resort where you find the usual supermarkets, tavernas, bars and car hire. Mountain bikes can be hired, an internet café is open at the Katoi Bar and there is even a small bowling alley.
Don't expect much 'old Greek' ambience in Agios Georgios. This is more a British bucket and spade holiday resort - only with sun.
AFIONAS village on the headland has views over the bay and the 13th century Venetian fortress of Angelkastro is a 30 minute car ride away.
Blue FlagBoat hire, excursionsBusesDivingTavernasTaxisWatersports
PALEOKASTRITSA is a firm favourite with British holidaymakers. Couched in lush countryside, it is one of the most scenic resorts on the Corfu. It is also very hilly and the lack of footpaths makes walking quite dangerous, especially at night.
The resort is spread over three large bays and they are big enough to soak up the visitors that are swelled by day-trippers. The main Paleokastritsa beach is a relatively narrow horseshoe crescent of shingle backed by a large hotel complex and a large car park.
The water is deep but sunbeds and plentiful and showers and toilets are available. Boats leave regularly for trips to nearby caves, grottos and small beaches. Taxi boats will drop you off on the beach of your choice. The usual tourist watersports are also on offer including scuba diving.
The other two bays - a smaller but sandier one to the north and another sandy strip around the headland are serviced by boat taxis. They take the overspill from the main beach and the daily influx of trippers ensure that they are rarely peaceful.
The handful of village tavernas are notoriously expensive and uniformly mediocre. There are a few tame music bars on the edge of the resort and around the headland is an exclusive marina. Overlooking the bay is a 13th century monastery, such a favourite with coach parties that traffic lights have been erected on the access road.
The monastery has some impressive icons, a carved wooden ceiling and a bizarre sea monster. The paved gardens have remarkable sea views if you buy a candle to enter. There are even better views in a ride up to nearby Lakones and the villages beyond as well as some notable roadside tavernas to enjoy on the way.
Tavernas
LIAPADES or LIAPATHES is a picturesque resort set in a sheltered bay, though sadly dominated by a large hotel complex. Mercifully it is not a high rise one but it still doesn't do much for the views.
The beach at Liapades is mostly soft sand with a few stones and the waters are very shallow, ideal for children.
Large rocks either side of the bay add interest and there is parking close to the beach. Visitors report that wasps are a problem, no doubt nesting in the nearby pines.
The village is about 1 km inland from the beach, but still worth a visit. It's a typical Greek village of narrow streets and whitewashed homes and has some good tavernas.
Blue FlagBoat hireTavernasWatersports
Busy ERMONES has been rather overrun by surrounding hotel complexes in recent years. It's only a small 300m cove surrounded by very steep hills but these are littered with four hotels and dozens of apartment blocks. German tour operators dominate here
It is a steep descent to the beach and the Ermones Beach Hotel boasts a small funicular railway to ferry the guests down the almost vertical cliffs.
The Ermones beach is sand and shingle, clean but marred by a smelly stream running through the middle of it. It shelves gently, so safe for children, and rocks invite exploration at either end. Sunbeds, toilets and showers are on Ermones beach and parking above, though there are some very steep steps to negotiate. Wind surfing and boat hire are on offer. The beach has three tavernas and three more above, so the crowds get very well fed. After dark, the place thumps to the hotel discos but there is no other entertainment. For shopping there is just one mini-market and that's it.
OK if your choice is an all-inclusive package deal but otherwise there are not many good reasons to visit Ermones.
Cantina
Lawrence Durrel once described the tiny sands at MYRTIOTISSA as “perhaps the loveliest beach in the world” which is going it a bit, especially today.
Relatively difficult to reach requiring a scramble down the cliff face from the nearby village at Vatos, the narrow but pretty stretch of sand is pocked by mighty boulders and overlooked by scrub covered cliffs.
Once a well kept secret the beach is now regularly invaded by day-trip boats and it can get seriously crowded in the high summer. But the beach still has great charm, despite the crowds, and it is best enjoyed at the end of the day when the boat trippers have left.
Mrytiotissa beach is still quiet enough to be a favourite haunt of nudists, though these get fewer every year as the beach grows in popularity. The beach cantina is noted for its excellent sandwich snacks.
Blue FlagBoat hireTavernasWatersports
GLYFADA has a huge 1km beach of pure golden sand that shelves gently into the sea, very attractive and a favourite of families. There are the usual sunbeds and watersports.
Glyfada has one of the longest, sandiest and cleanest beaches on the island and so is hugely popular, especially with Italians. Glyfada can get very crowded in high season.
It is also somewhat overwhelmed by the Louis Grand Hotel which takes up a mammoth portion of the beach. The small car park that sits nearby can soon reach full capacity and finding a place to park can be a pain later in the day.
Facilities like showers and toilets and a beach taverna are available at Glyfada. All the usual watersports that you expect on a big popular beach are also on offer.
On the headland there is a large rock formation, about 40ft at its highest point, that is a popular spot for show-off diving displays by the young Italian bucks.
Boat hireTavernasWatersports
The attractive hilltop village of PELEKAS sits on the west coast south of Glyfada and almost opposite Kerkyra, around 15km from the capital.
The beach lies below the village - about 1 0mins walk - and is a wide crescent of sand with sunbeds, showers and toilets.
Beachfront tavernas are plentiful at Pelekas and boat rental and a variety of watersports on offer. Once a favourite haunt of backpackers it has now given way to more conventional tourism, though it is still less crowded than neighbouring Glyfada.
The small fishing harbour to the south of Pelekas gives added interest and the small beach of YALISKARI has some amazing rock formations just around the headland.
Pelekas village above still has an authentic Greek character and the locals are noted for hospitality. Pelekas is also noted for its sunsets and here sits the Kaiser's Throne, a lookout tower on an outcrop of rock that was a favourite spot for Kaiser Willhelm II.
The Corfu southerly beach resorts are found below the line that can be drawn from Kerkyra in the east to Pelekas in the west. The eastern side of the long peninsula was the first to attract package tourism and the results in many resorts were tacky, tawdry and tatty with no concession to the local culture or landscape.
The market fell so far it dropped out of its own bottom and Corfu locals are now looking to attract more upmarket clients to bring in the euros. It will take some years yet for some resorts to shake off their quickly earned shabby image but at least they have made a start. By way of contrast the western coast is both wild and uninhabited, yet still wildly popular, mostly among the Greeks themselves.
Blue FlagBoat tripsBusesDivingHorse ridingTavernasWatersports
The relatively small resort at AGIOS GORDIOS is noted for its 600m long sandy beach and relaxed atmosphere. The soft sand and shallow water is ideal for families and children, though a few rocks in the central area can attract seaweed and scraps of litter.
Empty coves can be found beyond the Agios Gordios sands to north and south and attract naturists. Some interesting beach rocks at the southern end with the Ortholithi, the trademark standing rock in the sea.
The main Agios Gordios beach can get quite busy and there are beach tavernas and watersports on offer. A single road leading inland from the beach to the main road, with a selection of tavernas, shops and mini markets strung along it as it meanders up the steep hill. Parking can be a problem as the narrow road is a dead end at the beach with little room for turning a car.
Though some are disappointingly English, there are traditional Greek eateries. Prices tend to be high in such an out-of-the-way resort. Most nightlife is at the north end of the resort, although this only amounts to a few music bars.
The mini-markets provide basic supplies and Agios Gordios has a doctor and now an ATM. The bus to Corfu Town runs five time a day in the summer season and is reliable enough for a day out in the town.
Blue FlagTavernas
About 6km south of Agios Gordios the beautiful beach of PARAMONA sits below the village at AGIOS MATHAIOS. It is only a small (200m) and narrow (10m) strip of sand but it's in an idyllic setting. It has developed as a small resort in recent years with holiday hotels, apartments and some beach tavernas. There is parking on the road and showers on the beach.
More remote beaches lie further south at PRASOUDI and SKIDI but they require a 30min walk through olive groves to get to them, though the long walk can be broken by a visit to the fort at Gardiki.
Prasoudi has become particularly popular blessed by fine golden sand and a couple of tavernas on the beach, noteworthy for their seafood. Standing rocks offshore add interest and plenty of parking can be found at the taverna, although it's a steep scramble down to the sands. No buses go here.
Cantina
South of Paramona you leave the hills behind and reach wide open spaces at the ruined Byzantine fortress of GARDIKI or GARDHIKI which overlooks the salt water lagoon at LIMNI KORRISA or LAKE KORRISON.
The lagoon is now a nature reserve and home to turtles, lizards and migrating birds. Wide, soft sands appear to run for miles with the lake and sea separated by a narrow strip of dunes and a rough road.
The Korrison lake was created by the Venetians who flooded the marshy plain behind by dredging a route to the sea at the northern tip, presumably in order to harvest the salt, which was a much sought after commodity in Venetian times.
Today, this is a wild and unspoiled area having no beach facilities and its exposed nature can leave you battered by wind and whistling sand. It has few visitors although a mobile cantina doe spring up in the summer to serve basics near the Gardiki end of the beach.
Blue FlagBoat hireBusesTavernasWatersports
The natural wild disappears at AGIOS GEORGIOS (not to be confused with its more popular namesake to the north or the similar sounding Agios Gordios) to be replaced by wilder commercial offerings of late night drinking, clubbing and karaoke.
Paragliding and jet skis are popular at this long and straggling resort that has become a favourite of Brits. It's nothing like Kavos, only 20 mins away, appealing more to the middle-aged than the muddle-brained.
The north end of the long, long sands is known as ISSOS beach, overseen by a large hotel complex just south of the salt lake. To the south are the long sands of GOLDEN BEACH which merges into a string of sandy stretches that are variously known as MALTAS, MARATHIAS and SANTA BARBARA.
Agios Georgios itself has plenty of popular tourist attractions - tavernas and bars, karaoke, wide screen TVs, beach sports, doughnut sellers, souvenir stands and day trips on offer from the local travel agents.
A walk to the inland village ARGIRADES will reward with astonishing views, some lovely cafes and a taste of traditional Corfu village life. It's about 3km from the resort and offers extra amenities such as petrol station and pharmacy.
Boat hireBusesTavernasTaxisWatersports
The first thing to hit you on arrival in KAVOS is the rank smell of the rotting black seaweed washed up on the nasty Kavos beach. It's augmented by the stench of broken drains, foul toilets and a Kavos main street permanently lined by stale vomit.
Desperately dire and unrivalled for ugliness, Kavos is a fit place for the mentally challenged 18-30 year olds that it attracts by the thousand. Gangs of youths looking for a "larf" give Kavos the hostile air of an English soccer town on match day.
Expect shops selling lewd T-shirts, video bars named after TV sitcoms and lager swilling bozos trying to match IQs against sandal sizes. Men usually outnumber women about 10-1 so boys are far more likely to get tanked up than chatted up.
The Kavos resort is a single busy street - no pavement - with scores of music bars (80 at the last count), dance clubs and karaoke cafes that go mental from 11.30pm to sunrise. Club and bar touts are the usual problem - they pester passers by and some will forcibly drag you in.
Some complain that drinks are watered down and 'free shots' are mixed with meths to cut costs. Food in Kavos is more reasonably priced, but it's almost exclusively pizzas, burgers, kebab and chips.
Thieving is common and walking at night is dangerous on the narrow road as half-wit boys outgun each other on their quad bikes. It all makes for a very exciting atmosphere on the narrow Kavos drag as those youngsters still standing spill out of the bars to dance in the street.
The beach at Kavos is notoriously is poor, covered in rotting seaweed, fag ends, beer cans and condoms. It's often used as a nighttime toilet by drunken clubbers.
Boat trips are a way to escape Kavos - those to Parga, Paxos and Blue Lagoon are recommended. Don't consider Kavos out-of-season to avoid the crowds - the place shuts like a clam when the 18-30s leave.
Tavernas
The lovely village at LEFKIMI is well off the beaten track and a step back in time. Donkeys are still used as transport and you may even spot the odd Greek in traditional costume.
Lefkimi village has two striking churches, Agios Theodoros is found in the main square and the distinctive orange dome of Agios Arsenos can be seen for miles around. Some ancient Venetian salt pans nearby are currently being restored.
The village has a long harbour serviced by a river and boat trips visit regularly. Small beaches and fishing harbours can be found at nearby PETRITI and BOUKARI.
Blue FlagBusesBoat hireTavernasTaxisWatersports
The resort at MORAITIKA has now virtually merged with neighbouring MESSONGHI thanks to a strip of music bars, car rental outfits and souvenir shops. Moraitika is north of the harbour, about 30km south of Corfu Town.
The shingle and sand beach is always busy - no doubt helped by the massive 2,000-bed Messonghi Beach Hotel. Moraitika beach has the usual facilities associated with a popular hotel centre including plenty of sunbeds and the usual watersports.
For a change, visitors can head for ANO MORAITIKA up one of the steep lanes where you can find an unspoiled village of tiny, whitewashed houses covered in flowers and blessed with some excellent tavernas and great views.
The resort at MESSONGHI or MESONGI was once a quiet backwater village but it is now blended in with its neighbour, though this is still the more peaceful end of the resort. All the facilities are concentrated on the beach area, hotels, tavernas, bars and gift shop. It's off the main road so it tends to be quieter.
The beach is long and sandy having more shingle and pebble than its neighbour. There are changing rooms and showers and no end of beachside tavernas. One large mini market is found in the centre of the village and several small shops. Visits to the traditional hillside village of KHLOMOS are popular.
Blue FlagBusesBoat hireTavernasTaxis
AGIOS IOANNIS is fast developing tourist resort that sits on the east coast about half way between Messonghi and Benitses. This is one of the most attractive areas of the island and has been growing rapidly in recent years and now has plenty of amenities.
Agios Ioannis beach is relatively small, about 200m ling by 15m deep, mostly shingle but with some good sand with a quay at the southern end. Shallow waters make it very suitable for families and children.
A small parade of tavernas and bars, some shops, a mini-market are built along the back of the beach. Plenty of hotels have sprung up too and many of them have commandeered sections of beach for their guests. There are more hotels along the main road, which is far enough from the shoreline not to be a nuisance.
Watersports are available and a bus service goes to Moraitika and Benitses if you fancy a change of scenery.
Agios Ioannis is about 18km from the Kerkyra and Corfu airport. Driving down the east coast it is just after the tunnel 5km past Benitses.
Blue FlagBoat hireBusesTavernasTaxisWatersports
BENITSES or BENITSAS was once the favourite haunt of the downmarket holiday dimwit but it is slowly reverting to a more grown-up way of life in a bid to attract a more desirable clientele.
The resort at Benitses is about 1km along, strung along the east coast about 12km south of Corfu Town. The southern part of Benitses still clings precariously to its ignominious past with a string of brash music bars and a rank of tasteless tavernas.
But the Benitses old town has miraculously recovered some of its pre-60s charm and the whitewashed houses are today fairly drowning in cascades of flowers as the local try hard to shake off the tawdry image the resort once boasted.
The busy Benitses main road clings to the waterfront behind beaches that, it must be admitted, are not the best on Corfu . In some part of the beach you might just as well sunbathe on cement. Most of the beach is pebble and shingle with a very steep drop into the sea so its not great for families with children.
Benitses beach has the usual sunbeds and there are plenty of watersports such as paragliding, water skiing and pedaloes as well as small sea jetties that are good for diving off.
Many tavernas at the harbour end of Benitses have improved so much in recent years that they are now even frequented by locals and Benitses can make a good choice for those seeking a good island base with lively nightlife and plenty of late-night bars.
